su-version Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I'm to the point of pulling the engine but I need to separate the tranny first. So I have to ask. Where is the access slot to remove the flex plate/torque converter. First time working on Subies and I can't seem to locate a Haynes or Chilton's for the 2003 LL Bean so don't flame me. I did manage to get a Chilton for Legacy, Outback and Forester but nothing about the LL Bean or the EZ30 in it. TIA, kent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I just had my beaner trans out in February. The bolts are accessed at the top-rear of the engine, a little port that should be covered by a rubber plug. It took me a while to find it, as the port faces frontwards, that is, under the intake manifold. A good 6-point socket with the lead-in chamfer ground off attached to a flex-head ratchet is useful. A wrench with a pivoting socket-end would be good too. If you are going to pull the intake anyway, pulling the intake first (and attaching it last) will make the job a LOT easier. You can also just see the bolts from below, I actually started my bolts from the bottom using a 1/4 drive socket, extensions, and universal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
su-version Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Thx Dave, I wouldn't have looked beneath the intake. I did pull the starter to no avail. I'm going back out there and find that booger. I need to leave the engine intact until it's out. But if it gives me any trouble I'm taking your advice. I see you have the same vehicle. Do you need any parts for yours? Everything worked on this car when I received it. This thing is going to the recyclers in a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 A few months ago I sure could have used the transmission- would have saved me from putting an '04 into mine and having to do without AWD until I can get the control stuff sorted out! (shipping would have been silly though) If you were in driving distance no question I would load up on all kinds of bits, but nothing I need that's not avail. new for probably the cost of shipping big metal parts. Heck, I'd take the whole car for whatever the boneyard was going to give you if you were local! If you can hold the crank still and have some tools that'll reach 'em the bolts are pretty easy to get off. On is the challenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
su-version Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 I'm feeling kinda dumb at this point. I could not see the plug or opening so I tried to pull the cond/alt/pump as a unit, to no avail. I guess I need to remove the intake runners before I can remove the cond/alt/pump assm??? Am I missing something basic or on the right track? I did everything but run an inspection camera up under the intake. I'll hit it again this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) Remove the airbox, just below the throttle body and a little to the drivers side. About 1 inch forwards of the engine-trans parting line. Use a mirror- I have an old motorcycle mirror, a little 1 inch inspection mirror is too small. It is very hard to see from 'above'. I have not yet pulled the intake or AC etc, but given the rust on the coolant lines under the intake, I may need to. Edited June 12, 2013 by CNY_Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nevinnh Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Here's a good youtube on removing a 98 subaru 2.5. Brian does a great job of filming and really explains things well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
su-version Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) Thx Nevin but I got today. I will view the video though. Hey Dave, is that rust on the crossover tube beneath the radiator? I've got rust right in the middle on mine. I wondered what leaked above & center? Anyway, I was looking at the spot the whole time. With old eyes and poor lighting it looked to be part of the engine as it was the same color. The plug was missing and I was looking for something black. I struggled with pulling the alt/pump/comp because I was trying to disassemble them from the comp 1st & moving over. Once I started with the pump 1st the others followed revealing the hole to the "blind". I decided to pull the intake manifold after realizing my 12mm was a tad too long to work w/ a universal joint. Next up is getting that tranny separated getting the engine out and getting some new seals in it. Edited June 13, 2013 by su-version Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 I have had to replace the steel coolant lines that cross under the front of the engine, and the one that goes under the drivers-side head. Both wouild have leaked if I just looked at 'em funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 I the one that goes under the drivers-side head. . great - the coolant line - dave is that one replaceable without pulling the engine? it's so tight between engine and crossmember i was wondering??? mine is rusted though and needs replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 I pulled the battery and the windshield washer reservoir and was able to get it in/out by applying just a wee bit of upwards force on the engine. There is a bolt on the rear of the head holding the line, I found best access by pulling the drivers side wheel and going in from the side. I think I ended up unbolting the fuel filter clamp. I got a few scrapes on my hands that day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 awesome, thanks dave!!!!! need to do this pronto, been putting it off due to not thinking it would come out easily. $45 part, which isn't much but to me that's an annoying $45 part - i might try and make my own or use hose except there's a nipple that splits off at the back end so that might pose a problem. part number 14165AA014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
su-version Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) oops, double post deleted. Edited June 13, 2013 by su-version Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 My concern about just plumbing it with hose was chafing and finding a clear route that didn't go near the exhaust- you'd have to go up the front and over the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 My concern about just plumbing it with hose was chafing and finding a clear route that didn't go near the exhaust- you'd have to go up the front and over the top. another reason i avoided fixing it that way for the past year or two. i may try some of my own pipe, i have some closely sides copper tubing that will probably work....just that back side i think has a second nipple/Y at the end for a smaller pipe, will see about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 The back side has one smaller nipple coming off the 'main pipe', it feeds the throttle body, I think. I would be wary of using flexible copper, something in my memory says it might get brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
su-version Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 The back side has one smaller nipple coming off the 'main pipe', it feeds the throttle body, I think. I would be wary of using flexible copper, something in my memory says it might get brittle. Type "L" soft copper will work harden. More importantly, I would replace that pipe w/ like materials. Check your galvanic tables. You'll find that copper is the more noble of the two materials. i.e. it will get eaten up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I put a high stall on a 3.0 has a way smaller flex plate made it crazy hard to get the flex plate bolts becasue they were to close to block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 I put a high stall on a 3.0 has a way smaller flex plate made it crazy hard to get the flex plate bolts becasue they were to close to block You were supposed to attach the flex plate to the crank, then the flex plate to the in-place converter, and then you were supposed to assemble the engine around the crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 great, thanks dave - i've bypassed the throttle body lines before in other soobs with zero effects so i'm totally fine doing it here too. ridiculous of course but fewer failures points - 4 less clamps/connections, 2 less hoses. copper, copy does sound like a bad idea, i'll find some steel, probably have something already in my garage with all the engines lying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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