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if i replace it with a longer bolt, it won't "clamp" in the same way since it'll be threaded  into the knuckle right?

 

can i use a bolt that's threaded the entire length?  the longer bolts with unthreaded shanks (which seems to be most bolts available locally) bottom out against the threads in the knuckle.

 

i know i can use a smaller bolt and just run it through to clamp it - part of me likes using something the full diameter though.....?

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grainger, fastenal...nowhere seems to even carry 80mm long (enough to go through the knuckle and receive a nut), tap bolt (a bolt with threads the entire length).

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try a couple of washers maybe.

buy a tap & dye and cut more threads.

 

how much too long is it?

 

remember, the it is not just the pinch that holds the ball joint in.

 

the bolt shaft is exposed inside the ball joint housing and the bolt rides in a groove on the side of the BJ base.

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Replacing the pinch bolt with a through-bolt and nut is pretty common. As long as it is as large in diameter, and grade-8, I would use the same fix on my car.

 

NAPA usually has a pretty good bolt selection.

 

Bolt that is not threaded all the way down would be preferable, but does anyone carry grade 5 or better all-thread? Dobn't foget, it does not have to be metric...

 

Fastenal always has everything- except what you need right then! :)

Edited by CNY_Dave
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yes sir dave - my other daily driver has through bolts on both sides.  but i'd have to use a smaller bolt to fit or drill out the threads....was hoping to keep it the same size...seems more robust but probably doesn't matter. drilling i guess isn't a big deal since they're stripped but was hoping to just leave it as is.....actually if i'm going to drill it i might as well helicoil it maybe that would be far simpler and i probably have them already.

 

john - the bolt isn't too long, the pinch bolts threads are stripped so i need it longer so i can put a nut on it.  i need it longer but ALL long M10 x 1.25 bolts have a unthreaded portion that bottoms out too soon on the threads...i guess it's hard to explain/see it without seeing it.  they make "tap bolts" which are threaded the entire shank but they don't carry them over 2" and it needs to be longer than that to get a nut on the end.

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So the threads are too stripped to just use a new m10 bolt of the proper length?

But not stripped so much that the shank of a longer bolt will fit past them?

Those threads are so easy to drill out I wouldn't think twice about it, only takes a few minutes and you can run a new bolt through.

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You may have a hard time finding long enough 10mm bolts with 1.25 thread. But if the thread is ruined, just use a 10mm bolt with a more common thread (1.0 or 1.5) and use a nut on the end.

 

Any time you go junkyarding or parting off subarus, it is a good idea to keep any of the original bolts because you can't find them on the shelf in general.

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heres a tip for next time drill half the threads out of backside of pinch bolt before you try and turn it thiss weakens it enuff to get it out without breaking it and leves you some threads to put new one into I whould just drill it out now and grade 10 bolt with nut  thru it make shure all old bolt and threads are removed and pinch slot is open

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heres a tip for next time drill half the threads out of backside of pinch bolt before you try and turn it thiss weakens it enuff to get it out without breaking it and leves you some threads to put new one into 

I like this idea very much. More often than not, pinch bolts break if they haven't been apart as routine maintenance. I would consider this standard practice to be employed in the rust belt or for anything over 5 years old. Excellent idea!!

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I used to break them all the time now havent broken one in 4 years but i have taken more than a hour somtime more just to get that one bolt out in 1 peice

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