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Is that where MAP comes into play? Manifold Absolute Pressure?

Not exactly.

Manifold Absolute Pressure is just a measurement of the difference in pressure between the intake manifold and atmospheric pressure.

It's really a useless number to us, but the ECU uses it to help determine air density and calcuculate air/fuel ratio adjustments.

 

Glad to hear its running well. Hopefully it will stay that way.

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I adjusted the two intake lifters on #3 back to .020 and it fixed the tappet noise. I put a new filter and fresh oil in it and I must say it sounds as good as a new car. I checked Kelley Blue Book and they value it at around 3,800 in "fair" condition. I am a little concerned (in its present state) with only the four out of eight bellhousing bolts holding the engine to the transmission. I'm not going to the dragraces or offroading though so it should be o.k. It is still an interference engine? Correct?

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Edited by darsdoug

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Subaru used 4 bolts in the bellhousing for every engine they made since like the late 60's. It will be fine.

 

The question of interference with phase 2 heads on a phase1 2.2 block has come up a few times and as far as I know there hasn't been any solid evidence that it is not interference. The pistons in that block have reliefs for the valves, but the reliefs were designed for the valves in the phase1 heads. The phase2 2.2 heads increased valve angle from 15 to... I wanna say 20 or 22 degrees. Which makes it so the head can be shorter (overall height off of the deck) but it also increases the depth (down into the cylinder) of the edge of the valve when its open.

 

I would just assume it to be interference just to be on the safe side. Unless you want to pull the heads and clay the pistons to determine valve height above the piston.

Edited by Fairtax4me

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If you get valve float out of one of these youve got other problems. The valves are so small it's almost impossible within the RPM range these engines run. I wouldn't even consider it a possibility unless you get a tune and raise the rev limiter.

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Update:  Well.... I have put over five thousand miles on the engine since last summer with no problems whatsoever. It's still running pristine.

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Update:  Now over ten thousand freeway miles going back and forth to work since last summer and still running fine.

Considering how much torque/pressure I applied to all four corners of that one cylinder head (for about five minutes or so) I honestly believe I should take it off and check for distortion/flatness of the head and purchase another gasket. Although I'm tempted to just go with it and hope for the best. I know I put a generous amount of copper spray on the gaskets beforehand. If only I could remember whether it was the left or the right side of the engine? Yup. I might just go with it. I wonder what kind of odds Las Vegas will give it.?

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Update: Still runs great other than the random slip-bang downshift when going up a hill in Drive. I think it's the TCU causing that?

It also has a slight leak at the plastic oil separator plate I forgot to upgrade. duh!

I have a potential buyer coming today who wants to go over everything with a fine tooth comb (bringing a mechanic with him) so he can try and throw a lowball offer at me. Sorry but I'm going to stand firm at my sell price of $1800.

Edited by darsdoug

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