Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
Steve W.

EJ22T after swap problems. Fuel cut at 3 to 5 lbs of boost.

Recommended Posts

   Sorry Ivan, at this point I'm not set up to post pics.  I am workin' on it , may have it up & running by the wkend.   I'm gonna' spend some more time checking out the wiring today.  I understand  what your sayin' about how the ecu controls fuel management.  I think the wide band is sending the proper signal to the ecu, but still not sure what's causing the reversed program to the injectors. Plan to switch back to the other ecu to see if that changes any thing.  Thanks,  S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve,

 

Regarding your readings on the TPS, some of the readings like the resistance when open and close....as long as they're close it's ok.  If the book says 12 kohms and you're reading 10 kohms or something like that, it's not a big deal.  However your other readings should be right.  Are you sure you are reading the correct pins?  Do all the spare TPS's read the same?

 

Is your TPS connector wiring the same as what is in these pictures?

 

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/tpsconnector

 

If you can't get your image hosting setup, you can email me the pics and I will host them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Hi. Josh.  This is making me crazy.   So, yes all three read close to the same, pretty sure I'm testing them correctly.  I even mounted them to a spare throt. body, and set the idle sw. to .28thou. for testing. One doesn't have a idle sw. signal, so I set it aside, at this point I'm running the one this eng. had originally.  Both ecus. are still sending power, 10 + volts to the idle sw., so I have it disconnected.  I continue to ck. the codes, and most recently it dropped the earlier codes and threw a 23, mafs. and a 42, also maf, and 51, neut. sw., which I thot. I had corrected.  The only maf sens. I have as a spare is a n.a. JECS, that the ecu doesn't like at all.  With the current set up, it's runnin' rich all the way, idles in the hi 9 & 10s, low load & sm. throt. opening stays in 9s & 10s till load, then runs in the 13s and 14s even under boost.  In deceleration back to 9s & 10s,  I kick it into neut. cause I can see the folks behind have their eyes watering from the rich stink.  I think this alum. bodied ecu is turbo specific, rite?  And not easy to find,  tho. the electronic part is removable, I'd hate to think what the dealer would want for one.  There's one in my 93 Legy. SS, but I hate to pull anything off of it for testing for fear of damaging stuff, & it's such a sweet ride.  I'm still having to drive my GL10 for work, and continue to try to figure out whats wrong.  I'm headin' out now to plug in my n.a. ecu for a road test, just to see----   Thanks for stickin' with me bud.  I'll be back.  S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All the turbo Legacy ECU's are interchangable.  What is the part # on the ECU you're using? 

 

That's very strange....it seems like something just isn't right....wish I could go over it in person as it's probably something simple once you see it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Na harness i spent weeks trying to make turbo one work is big grief na harness worked perfect first time and 4 years later no problems. Half the turbo cars I see dont run good even in stock configuration. They had way to mutch going on. a known good stock MAF may be good starting point. I would park a known good runing turbo car right next to it and start trying you parts on it one at time till it dose same thing then at least you can narrow down what part is causing problem

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

   Hi. Guys.   Well,  here's the ser. # on the ecu from the donor car, 22611 AA694, below that, MECF-M61, below that,2821 A1 M8.  Am I correct in thinking that these aluminum mafs are turbo only?  I don't have the one from the donor car,  and I'm not sure anymore where I aquired this one.  I may need to post a WTB for one.  Ivan, I've been reluctant to start swaping parts off my  SS Legy for fear of damaging them, but I'll have to admit it seems the practical thing to do. I mite try switching the maf out tomorrow. Thanks fellas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

   Hi. Guys.   Well,  here's the ser. # on the ecu from the donor car, 22611 AA694, below that, MECF-M61, below that,2821 A1 M8.  Am I correct in thinking that these aluminum mafs are turbo only?  I don't have the one from the donor car,  and I'm not sure anymore where I aquired this one.  I may need to post a WTB for one.  Ivan, I've been reluctant to start swaping parts off my  SS Legy for fear of damaging them, but I'll have to admit it seems the practical thing to do. I mite try switching the maf out tomorrow. Thanks fellas.

 

Well that ECU is definitely a turbo ECU.  The aluminum body MAF's came on the 91-94 turbo legacies, but also came on the 90-91 MT only non-turbo legacy.  So you could probably find an aluminum body MAF from a non-turbo car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Hi. All.   So Ivan, I did switch out the mafs with the Legy. one, very little affect. I still want to run the codes to see if this has cleared the maf code.  Not sure what to try switching next, pulling the Leg. ecu's no easy task.  Josh, do you think all the alum. bodied ecu's are the same, N/A and turbo?   I just discovered one last week in our Santa Fe wrecking yard in a early Legacy,  thinkin' I'd pull it as a spare if their the same.  Still working on it when I have time.   Thanks, S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Well, I ran the codes and nothing has changed.  Still 23-- 42--- 51.  I did pick up that alum. mafs. from the JY,  I'll check the readings on that one against the others. I'm gonna check continuity (again) from the mafs connector to the ecu, and outputs from the ecu pins to make sure that's ok.  Not sure where to go from there. Tho't I'd run a code test on the Leg. to see if it's throwing any thing.   S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All the aluminum body MAF sensors are the same.

 

Yeah I don't know what to say about the MAF code still being there.  If you've tried multiple MAF's & ECU's, all that's left is the wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Yup,  Josh.  I'm rite there too.  I'm gonna' trace out some more wiring, but I'm so burned out it's hard to find the gumption.  This thing is gonna' be a rocket ship if I ever get it runnin' rite.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

still want to see the map / boost / wastegate /preshure senser setup this is a finiky setup that all must see eachother to work do a ohm check from maf to ecu one pin at a time check for broken maff wire at conector 1/4 - 1 inch in broken harness ? also dose it have stock air fillter pluming ? We have found must have a bend in intake pipe and be fairly long before the maff thiss distance is critical to the speed of the air. One of the drift boys was having a problem with this on his drift car with short large intake boot with k@n fillter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Hi. Ivan.  I'm really close to being able to post pics, within the next few days with any luck.  I have the map/pres. sens. hooked up just like they are in my 93 Leg. SS car.  I'm running a manual wastegate controller, and have added a resistor as Josh had suggested.  So, I tried another mafs. today, the one I just picked up at the JY last week.  No change.  I had already checked the continuity from the maf connector to the ecu.  I also checked the ecu out put to those terminals, and that's very close to book specs.  I'm runnin' the EA filter housing, with the EJ maf. adapted to it, with a K&N filter,  the intake muffler removed and the fender to air box opening enlarged to a 3" by 4" oval.  The ecu is still puttin' out 10+ volts at the idle switch pin, so I'm still running that disconnected.  I'll mess with it some more tomorrow.    Thanks,  S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

try runing a longer intake boot to air box try and size it down so air speeds up the one one race car is 3 ft to maff to turbo and dose 3 turns. The stock turbo legacy has a ton of air box math going on and is tuned for it change that and air move slower and weighs less maff cant work proper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

   Nope, still 23 & 42.  I think I've finally got the neut. sw. hooked up.   The GL air box isn't a lot different than the EJ, not much room to move the maf., maybe 10 0r 12 " to the turbo.                      I mite  size down the runner to the turbo,  run a smaller hose inside the maf. outlet, instead of outside.            

    Don't know much that would speed up incoming air, but some I'd think.  Thanks guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Not sure what the dimensions are,  but it's the o/d of the maf. in a pretty much constant taper to the TDO 4,  @ 2" or so.  It' s hard for me to see how at 7 or 8 lbs of boost and 3500 rpms or so that it's not flowing enough air for the mafs. to read rite.  Still think there's a root problem that I'm not finding.  It's runnin' so rich I'm not driving it unless I really have to.  I hate to go back & start over.  Hasta

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Not sure what the dimensions are,  but it's the o/d of the maf. in a pretty much constant taper to the TDO 4,  @ 2" or so.  It' s hard for me to see how at 7 or 8 lbs of boost and 3500 rpms or so that it's not flowing enough air for the mafs. to read rite.  Still think there's a root problem that I'm not finding.  It's runnin' so rich I'm not driving it unless I really have to.  I hate to go back & start over.  Hasta

 

Yeah I think the piping size sounds ok.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

are you sure you are measuring the idle switch voltage correctly?  from pin c6 (Black/red wire) of the ECU?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Hi. guys.  Ivan,  my O2 sens. is an Inovativemotorsports wideband,  and I just today pulled it and recalibrated it. No affect. I really don't think the injectors are sticking or leaking, it runs clean under load till vacume comes up, then goes real rich.  I just checked continuity from the map and pres. sol. connectors to the ecu., and ohm and voltage numbers are all within book specs.  Do you think adding some sort of venturi in the hose between the maf. and the turbo would help with velocity?  Pin B6 on the turbo ecu wire is brown, and for sure it's puttin' out 10V + at the ecu. no mater what, even with the three ecus. I've tried.   Again, I think it's something I've done wrong that I'm not finding.  I should have kept better notes on all my testing, am sure I'm doing some of this over.  Thanks Yall,  S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok is it posibble that the vacume lines to the map are pluged restricted or one way valve backwards do you get clean vacume to map ? darn is to bad so far away oh well keep pluging away the problem will show its self

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Nope, Line direct from int. manifold.  I checked the map sens. with my vacume hand pump, and it showed to be well within book specs.  Still lookin'  Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×