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wood87

88 Dl will idle wont drive

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I have a 1988 Dl with a single point fuel injection. it was sitting in someone's field for half a decade. I was trying to get it running. It runs now even with no tick. It will idle and rev when I am not going anywhere, but as soon as I start driving it will bog down. If I pump the gas it will get up and going again. I thought it was the tps sensor, but I have ruled that out by putting three of them on there. I have no idea what it might be. Any help will be appreciated. Also does anyone know how to reset the computer. I keep getting weird codes.

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MAF?

 

Could just be a cracked or disconnected PCV or IAC hose.

 

Could also be a weak fuel pump.

 

reset computer by pluggin toghether the green connectors and the white connectors under hte hood near wiper motor.  Start engine and run it over 2K rpms for 40 secs.  CEL will come on steady if clear......Will keep blinking codes if not.  Disconnect after clearing.

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It is not the fuel pump i replaced that with one out of a ford i read on here works. As far as the codes i am getting they are saying my neutral sensor is always on and my purge control solenoid or circuit is bad i dont know what that is. I will look for the pcv leak and i am not popping a bad code for the maf when i unplug it my car pops the code for it

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Nuetral and purge won't affect running really.

 

I would still suspect an air leak somewhere or a fuel issue.

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I am pumping good presure on the return line and i am still looking for an air leak i am going to try and replace tge throttle body

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So I think I figured out the problem I plugged my return fuel line and started it up and it drives good, but it feels like I loose power when I get the rpms up the motor starts to pulsate with the fuel pump as it pumps the fuel. I looked up on this forum and read that some people have had some luck with ford fuel pumps, so that is what I installed. It does not seem to be working I am going to go to a junk yard and try to pick up an original. does anyone have any idea how to fix this or just get a new old one? 

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I second the hose concern voiced above. Five years is way longer than most hoses should go even WITH being driven, much less with no driving at all.

 

The vacuum lines on top of the engine can split and crack, and the primary symptom is weak/boggy action. If they are bad enough and/or in the right spot, it can even keep the car from starting. I would buy a few feet of each size (take one sample of each size in to your local parts store). Push for stuff off the spool, don't be afraid to ask for "generic/spool" lengths.

I say this because the parts store clerk will almost always ask for the make and model of the car, and then look lost when no 'vacuum hose' is listed on their screen. The hoses are not a subaru specific part--any hose of the correct inside diameter will work, and they DO have spools of each size in the back.

Hoses in hand, swap out on piece at a time. I mark the hoses on the motor BEFORE I start any work (white out works well) so I know which ones still need swapping after I am half-done and go inside for a water break.

Doing the hoses is cheap and simple, and will have to be done in the next six months ANYWAY; and will most likely fix your problem to boot. Kill two birds with one stone :)

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And if there are still issues, then we can address the fuel delivery. (Oh, with the air...check the air filter, and make sure the delivery hose between the filter and injector is snug on both ends).

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pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator.. if gas comes out bingo. if gas doesnt come out, put a vac line on and suck on it, gas may come out then so be careful. 

if it holds vacuum and doesn't leak move on.

 

 

my theory is when driving it it creates more vacuum and sucks some gas through the vacuum line and causes it to run rich and stall.

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