1990 Loyale resurrection

[caspice]

Picked up a 90 Loyale SW, 5spd, 4wd earlier this year for a few hundred bucks.  

Is has 198829 miles and was suffering from the TOD.  I drove the car prior to purchase, but only up in to fourth due to the area. Everything worked and it ran just fine.  

Upon getting the bru home I proceeded to perform the following:

Pulled the engine and replaced the front crank seal, rear crank seal, and cam seals.

Re-installed the HLA's so that the oil inlet orifice was correctly oriented.

Converted the power steering to manual and removed the pump and associated lines.

Replaced the timing belts and tensioners; discarded the belt covers.

Replaced the oil seal and mickey gasket.

New water-pump, cap & rotor, plugs and wires, clutch assembly, EGR Solenoid, Purge Solenoid.

 

Timing set at 20 degrees BTC.

Idles +/- 700 rpm

No Codes (cleared by replacing the two solenoids mentioned above)

 

It starts and idles, though will backfire through the intake when depressing the accelerator.

When engaged into gear, totally bogs down when the clutch is let out normally and will not go.

If I gas it up in the rpms and dump the clutch, it burns rubber but only briefly and bogs down.

 

i have checked the TPS; both for measured adjusted and electrically-okay

I have measured the Air Valve and MAF and both are coming back in tolerance.

 

What am I missing?

 

 

[MilesFox]

Make sure the spark plug wires are routed properly. 1-3-2-4 counter clockwise 

 

3 4

1 2

[caspice]

I will double check the sequence.

 

Wouldn't surprise me if I missed something simple.

Kind of like asking where you left your glasses when they are on top of your noggin'

[caspice]

MilesFox-thanks for being the second set of eyes. 

 

You nailed it- I had the wires in the wrong order.

A PO had written a firing order diagram on the coolant overflow bottle, and like an idiot I followed that order instead of the order in the book.  

Where's my Dunce Cap?

 

Cheers!

[Dee2]

wow, you did a ton of work there.  Impressive.

[caspice]

Thanks for the complement.

 

The work continues.  

So far, including the list at the top, I have:

replaced one half shaft

replaced PCV and hoses

changed sway bar bushings

changed tie-rod bushings

changed all fluids (except brake fluid-its on the to do list)

re-tapped the exhaust holes in the heads (1/2" threads)

replaced the brakes

replaced Radiator and heater hoses

replaced belts for Water-pump, AC, and Alternator with new sizes due to deletion of Power Steering pump

changed a few bad wheel studs

secured a few loose wheel studs (6x5.5 bolt pattern)

relocated the front turn-signals into the front marker lights (removed the front bumper-will be installing a custom unit)

replaced Thermo flasher unit with an Electronic type

Installed a few switches under the Rear-Defrost Switch for lights (relay isolated from the main wiring harness for power draw, but relay activation still requires the ignition to be on)

Installed a 48" Firestik Antenna for my 10 Meter/CB band radio. Ran the cable through the channel in roof -have to drop the headliner-and mounted to the rear lift gate.

installed a locking gas cap just to keep me petrol in my tank

 

Still to do List:

Fix a few rust holes (wheel wells)

Give a paint job

Remove the nasty wheel well extenders from the PO.

replace the exhaust (fixed and patched, but snapped at the CAT when I put the engine back in)

Fix the leaky sun-roof

Order a 8"x3/8"x72" piece of 6061-T6 for the front bumper, build some brackets to fit the stock mounting locations.

Install Auxiliary driving lights.

Change brake fluid

Finish installing my Transceiver (KC3AKA)

Install roof rack

Find a spare tire/wheel to match the other four (Toyota Tacoma Steel Rims with 205/65-15 Winter-Master Tires- it had 215/75-15 when i got it, but the rubbed too much in tight turns)

Maybe tint the windows.

 

i will have to post some pics on progress.

 

Comments?

Questions?

[MilesFox]

The leaky sunroof may h=just be clogged drain tubes.

 

Bleeding the rear brakes is more successful if you depress the clutch while pumping (provided the hill holder functions. )

[Dee2]

Thanks for the complement.

 

The work continues.  

So far, including the list at the top, I have:

replaced one half shaft

replaced PCV and hoses

changed sway bar bushings

changed tie-rod bushings

changed all fluids (except brake fluid-its on the to do list)

re-tapped the exhaust holes in the heads (1/2" threads)

replaced the brakes

replaced Radiator and heater hoses

replaced belts for Water-pump, AC, and Alternator with new sizes due to deletion of Power Steering pump

changed a few bad wheel studs

secured a few loose wheel studs (6x5.5 bolt pattern)

relocated the front turn-signals into the front marker lights (removed the front bumper-will be installing a custom unit)

replaced Thermo flasher unit with an Electronic type

Installed a few switches under the Rear-Defrost Switch for lights (relay isolated from the main wiring harness for power draw, but relay activation still requires the ignition to be on)

Installed a 48" Firestik Antenna for my 10 Meter/CB band radio. Ran the cable through the channel in roof -have to drop the headliner-and mounted to the rear lift gate.

installed a locking gas cap just to keep me petrol in my tank

 

Still to do List:

Fix a few rust holes (wheel wells)

Give a paint job

Remove the nasty wheel well extenders from the PO.

replace the exhaust (fixed and patched, but snapped at the CAT when I put the engine back in)

Fix the leaky sun-roof

Order a 8"x3/8"x72" piece of 6061-T6 for the front bumper, build some brackets to fit the stock mounting locations.

Install Auxiliary driving lights.

Change brake fluid

Finish installing my Transceiver (KC3AKA)

Install roof rack

Find a spare tire/wheel to match the other four (Toyota Tacoma Steel Rims with 205/65-15 Winter-Master Tires- it had 215/75-15 when i got it, but the rubbed too much in tight turns)

Maybe tint the windows.

 

i will have to post some pics on progress.

 

Comments?

Questions?

 

Okay, now your just showing off.....

 

Yes, we want pictures !!!

[caspice]

Thanks for the advice on bleeding out the brake lines.  The HH is functional-tested yesterday.

The sunroof is an after-market chop job, and is leaking between the glass and the seal.

 

 

getting there.  has a small lift installed.

 

 

 engine back in.

 

 

 the fork boot and timing bung are still available from your local Subaru dealer; surprisingly they are not expensive.

 

 

 had to find shorter belts after removing the power-steering pump.  Replaced the rack bushings while I had it out - 25mm for a 1993 impreza.

 

 

 Added the switches for driving and fog lights (yet to be installed) The switches utilize an ignition selected power source to activate the relays. The relays in turn connect fused circuits feed directly from the battery.  When i turn off the ignition, the relays will disconnect power from the battery to the lights.

 

hard to see in the daylight.  Sourced some dual element lamp sockets from the local parts store. A little trim here & there to fit the lens housing.  Soldered the stock connectors to the new sockets, added dual element LED lamps.

 

 Still need to remove the fender flares and fix the rust.  The rims are from a Toyota Tacoma-$50 for the set.  Tires were used for one season-picked them up for $100.

 

Antenna mount re-enforced on the inside of the gate.  Cable runs beside the circuits for the rear brake lamp and washer.  Dropped the headliner and ran the cable along the crease then down the front post behind the dash.  Had to cut the original connectors off to get the cable in.  Connects up to a signal strength metre installed in the bottom tray; then up to the Transceiver.  Using the stock brackets and cover plate I will have both the transceiver and a Radio/CD/MP3 player.  External transceiver speaker installed the driver side dash.  Ran speaker circuits along with the antenna cable in the back.  

This is a Base model Wagon so it only came with speaker in the front doors.

 

More to come soon.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 23, 2013 by caspice

[Dinky26]

Wow, I am very jealous for all you have done to this car, I have a 1991 that needs alot of the same treatment.

 

I pulled the engine back in January and then.......oh stuck in the rutt of LIFE......between work, mother in law, my medical ect ect, THE ENGINE lay in many pieces here and there in my garage...oh dear GOD help me, oh HELP me.....IT will be an EXTREMELY fun puzzel to put back together

 

 

Congrats on your Loyale make over !!

Edited July 26, 2013 by Dinky26

[Natemanas]

This makes me sad.. I paid too much for my loyale in nowhere near as nice a condition.. :-(

[Dinky26]

This makes me sad.. I paid too much for my loyale in nowhere near as nice a condition.. :-(

 

Live and learn bud.

[caspice]

we all pay too much, but worth it to keep them running.

 

rough estimate for my 'investment' is about $2000 between the actual purchase and all the parts that'll go into it to make it good daily driver.

 

This one isn't any different than my last three GL Hatchbacks.  Pick them up for a few hundred bucks and spend 1-3x's the purchase price getting them back up to snuff.

 

Compared to footing the monthly payment on my truck - I'd rather stick with a twenty - thirty year-old Bru!

[caspice]

 

 

After a closer examination of my current sunroof I noted that the glass sealing gasket  and latch were no longer up to snuff.  Found a newer (used) sunroof on CL for $50.  It is a little longer than the current one.  After I finish painting the top and remove the old one just need a few minor snips to get the new one in place.

No more leaks.

Edited July 31, 2013 by caspice

[caspice]

  This was the colour of my bru when I got her.  Not being much a 'red'car guy I wanted to tone the colour down abit.

 

  after a few samples I decided to use this colour - fossil.

 

  not too bad for using rattle-cans.  still need to fix some rust spots around the wheel wells, add some new side moldings in the channel and apply bed liner from the channel down.

 

pull the fenders off to paint them individually.  Figured while I was in there, I'd look at relocating the windsheild washer tank.

  There are three (3) 10mm nuts that need to be removed to take the tank off.  This is the most difficult to access, but can be removed without taking the airfilter housing off.

Tank removed

 

Trying to figure out the best way to relocate the cold-air intake. 

Any advice on homemade snorkles?

Would like to have a good plan in place so I know where to cut into my freshly painted fender.

 

 

[caspice]

I read the washer tank sticky about locating a tank from older model (EA71), but those are few and far between around here.  There are two sets of bolt holes on the shock tower.  I fabbed up a few brackets, and presto! The stock washer tank fits fairly well next to the air filter housing.  The pump wiring reaches without modification.

 

One of the PO's removed the wheel well skirts when they hacked up the fenders.  This creates a small issue having the windshield washer tank and cold air inlet snorkle exposed to what ever the tires kick up.  Having relocated the washer tank out of harms way, i was left with finding a way to keep unwanted items out of the snorkle.  When I took it off, it was full of debris (dirt, rocks, leaves).

 

I cut the top off of a plastic coffee container to make a protective cover.

This will help to keep solid debris out of the inlet while not restricting air flow. 

I would still like to provide some level of protection to the air intake assembly and the wiring loom. 

Edited August 13, 2013 by caspice

[BoxerRebellion]

Wow.

 

First, shout out to Miles for guessing plug-wire-sequence. Wow.

 

Second, caspice... 'Lotta work dude.

Props for resurrecting a good car, with old parts, that just needed some TLC.

 

Sounds rewarding.

[MilesFox]

Wow.

 

First, shout out to Miles for guessing plug-wire-sequence. Wow.

I have made that mistake myself....had backfiring out of the throttle. Happens to the best of us.... Experience is the best teacher.

[MR_Loyale]

Washer Tank relocate 1.jpgWasher Tank relocate 2.jpg

I read the washer tank sticky about locating a tank from older model (EA71), but those are few and far between around here.  There are two sets of bolt holes on the shock tower.  I fabbed up a few brackets, and presto! The stock washer tank fits fairly well next to the air filter housing.  The pump wiring reaches without modification.

 

One of the PO's removed the wheel well skirts when they hacked up the fenders.  This creates a small issue having the windshield washer tank and cold air inlet snorkle exposed to what ever the tires kick up.  Having relocated the washer tank out of harms way, i was left with finding a way to keep unwanted items out of the snorkle.  When I took it off, it was full of debris (dirt, rocks, leaves).

Washer tank removed.jpg

I cut the top off of a plastic coffee container to make a protective cover.Air filter snorkle cover 2.jpg Air filter snorkle cover.jpg

This will help to keep solid debris out of the inlet while not restricting air flow. 

I would still like to provide some level of protection to the air intake assembly and the wiring loom. 

 

Since you are going through this car so thoroughly, I might mention that you can still get those splash shields:

 

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/1990/SUBARU/LOYALE/?siteid=214857&vehicleid=1270055&diagram=7525092

[caspice]

Thanks for the link MR_loyale.

The cost of those aprons is more than I paid for the car. Money is tight and every penny counts.

It would be nice to have a clean resto, but that would require new fenders since the current ones have been hacked.

This is not a candidate for restoration.

I bought a rubber tub for $5 that should work once I decide on the best method to attach it to the fender. There are mounting tabs still on the inner. The outter tabs are gone since the fenders are hacked. The rear quarters are even worse. This is what I have to work with, so I will do the best I can with what's at hand. Trying to get this on the road by October (next truck payment will be due then). Most of the mechanical issues that I know of have been addressed. Now its onto fixing some rust holes and trying to prevent any new spots.

[caspice]

Since it is a beautiful sunny day thought that I would change out my old leaky sunroof. Removed all the screws from the retaining ring and it came right out. No worries. Took the frame from the new used one, placed it on top of the roof and measured, and marked, and measured, and marked (you know where this going...right?) Pulled out my trust sheet metal nibbler and had at it; nice and neat. Trimmed up the headliner; again nice and neat. Put the new used frame halfs together, screws all in.

And of course, doesn't quite work out the way planned.

My old sunroof dropped in from the top and was held in place by a retaining ring screwed in from the bottom. The new used sunroof frame is designed so the the top half nests inside the bottom half then it is screwed together.

Needless to say I am an idiot ;-), having transposed the width of the bottom frame for the top. Now that the hole is cut I can clearly see the the design of the newer frame is meant to pinch the roof sheetmetal for a tighter seal. This is one of those moments when instructions come in real handy, too bad my new used sunroof didn't come with any.

 

Just one of those times when you do something so stupid you have to laugh at yourself and tell everyone. Cheers!

[MR_Loyale]

Since it is a beautiful sunny day thought that I would change out my old leaky sunroof. Removed all the screws from the retaining ring and it came right out. No worries. Took the frame from the new used one, placed it on top of the roof and measured, and marked, and measured, and marked (you know where this going...right?) Pulled out my trust sheet metal nibbler and had at it; nice and neat. Trimmed up the headliner; again nice and neat. Put the new used frame halfs together, screws all in.

And of course, doesn't quite work out the way planned.

My old sunroof dropped in from the top and was held in place by a retaining ring screwed in from the bottom. The new used sunroof frame is designed so the the top half nests inside the bottom half then it is screwed together.

Needless to say I am an idiot ;-), having transposed the width of the bottom frame for the top. Now that the hole is cut I can clearly see the the design of the newer frame is meant to pinch the roof sheetmetal for a tighter seal. This is one of those moments when instructions come in real handy, too bad my new used sunroof didn't come with any.

 

Just one of those times when you do something so stupid you have to laugh at yourself and tell everyone. Cheers!

 

Sometimes the tuition at the school of hard knocks is steep.

[caspice]

This just gives me an excuse to fix something else. If the weather holds next weekend, I will take the newused sunroof out, clean off the paint on the roof near the hole, and tack on a repair strip of sheet metal to decrease the width of the opening. A little mud, a little sanding, a little paint...no worries.

That has to be more fun than pulling the transmission on my 04 Ranger to replace another crapped out slave cylinder.

[caspice]

ADMIN...can I get this thread moved to Member Rides? Thanx!

[jread]

So disappointed this ended here! Was really interested in seeing what was going to be done with the bumper!