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Relating to this thread...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139431-head-gasket-blown/

 

I changed the HG's, water pump & T-stat, reseal oil pump, T-belt & pulleys, plugs and wires, a couple small hoses and fluid changes. 

 

Got it all put back together Thursday night. Went to try to start it Friday morning and it would run with my foot on the gas. As soon as I let off the gas it would die. 

 

Saturday morning- cleaned the MAF sensor and the IAC valve. Ran for like 10 sec on its own then died. Would run after that with foot on gas but then would die.

 

Yesterday- Cleaned out the throttle body intake a little and went to try to start it. Got dash lights but wouldn't turn over. Put battery on the charger for about 4-5hrs and when I put it back in the car after that I got nothing. No dash/dome lights.... nothing.

 

Took it to O'Reilly's and they said it was bad but not bad enough to make it not start/ no lights. Took it back home and put it in car again, lights came back but still no start.

 

Today- Took battery to Les Schwab to get a new one. They said it tested fine. Put it back in the car and got dash lights but still no start.

 

Nothing that I can see is disconnected, I'm 99% sure the timing is on. Was supposed to take my suby on a 1500mi road trip in 13 days.  :wacko:

 

Sorry for the long post... wanted to be as thorough as possible. Any ideas to either problem?? 

 

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Run for a few seconds the stall is almost always an air leak in the intake tube between the MAF sensor and throttle body.

Make sure the clamps are tight at each end.

Make sure both breather hoses are attached at the valve covers and to the bottom of the intake tube behind the TB. There's a tube to the PCV valve there too. And check that the big tube to the IAC is attached at both ends.

 

No start could be the contacts in the starter, but check that the positive cable is tight on the starter, also check the ground lug where it is bolted to the engine right by the starter. Also make sure the solenoid wire is attached.

Edited by Fairtax4me

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They said it tested fine. Put it back in the car and got dash lights but still no start.

 

no start?

 

does the engine cranks over but does not start?

or does the starter fail to turn the engine?

 

at the risk of being too simple,

the most common cause of a no start is bad battery connections.

but if the starter is turning the engine over, that is probably not the issue.

 

 

Run for a few seconds the stall is almost always an air leak in the intake

 

usually it is the large hose running from the IAC on the rear of the intake to the plastic plenum.

it connects to the plenum on the very bottom and is hard to see and easy to miss.

it can pop off almost any time you remove the plenum or open the air filter box.

Edited by johnceggleston

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some years had a starter kill hooked to keyless entry unit did the park lights flash when batt was rehooked up ? or did main black fuseabble link in under hood fuse box get burned ( this is your main power feed ) is the - batt got a good ground to engine ?

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Battery problem solved. Cleaned the grounds and terminals.... seems to of fixed that issue. Duh  :rolleyes:

 

Still not wanting to run on its own though. Everything is connected (im 99.999% sure). None of the vacuum hoses are cracked/cut and the intake looks fine. Will start and run, settle on 1500 rpm for about 3 sec and then die. It ran for about 2 min with my foot on the gas. Bad PCV valve? Is it possible i messed up something removing and reattaching the throttle cable?

 

Don't know if it has keyless entry. Didn't come with a clicker and I don't recall seeing the parking lights flash.

Edited by twister5voy

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Double check the hoses that attach to the intake tube. Other hoses that could make small leaks shouldn't make the engine stall unless you left all of them unhooked, but they shouldn't be overlooked.

 

If you get no love unhook the battery negative for a few minutes. Reconnect and start the engine, but DO NOT use the gas pedal to keep it running. If it stalls restart it and let it figure itself out.

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the throttle must be all the way closed to tell ecu to go into ilde mode did you mess with hard stop ? also check main engine harnes conector are pluged in all the way and tight

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Have checked the hoses x6, tried the battery thing fairtax suggested... no difference. Everything is plugged in. Throttle butterfly is closed.

Was gonna try to check the ECU codes using the instructions here 

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

but I think black connector was already connected? 

xd7daf.jpg

Are those the correct connectors its talking about?

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"It ran for about 2 min with my foot on the gas. Bad PCV valve? Is it possible i messed up something removing and reattaching the throttle cable?"

 

You might want to double check your throttle cable attachment.

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Have checked the hoses x6, tried the battery thing fairtax suggested... no difference. Everything is plugged in. Throttle butterfly is closed.

Was gonna try to check the ECU codes using the instructions here

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

but I think black connector was already connected?

Are those the correct connectors its talking about?

I always thought they were supposed to look the same as the green connectors, only black instead of green, but I could be mistaken.

 

Try unplugging the black connector and see what happens.

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@ 1 Lucky Texan--did you mean to post that info here or in Jenstheman's "2004 Outback" thread?

 

 

yeah, brain f@rt posting from work, thanx

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Always look were you just were when they come in to me like this very first thing i do is see what the onwer did last is good place to start. Could the cam timing be off ? Could the intake gasket get pinched coolant level low wires pulled out of iac. Coolant senser not pluged in or damaged wire harness pinched under maifoild main engine conectors pushed pinout or bent pins main intake ground. Things I doubt whould be wrong ECU is tough dosent fail often crank /cam senser will not run without iac is fairly reliabble not many go bad tp senser very rare to go bad and dose not fail in idle pos O2 whould only efect it hot. my money is on damaged wireing somwere

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I went out and stared at the suby again this morning, thats when I noticed that the marks on the timing belt no longer match up with the marks on the camshafts. They should be lined up right? Or is it the marks on the cam's and the marks on the engine that I need to worry about. When I put it on it all lined up...  :angry:

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"I went out and stared at the suby again this morning, thats when I noticed that the marks on the timing belt no longer match up with the marks on the camshafts. They should be lined up right? Or is it the marks on the cam's and the marks on the engine that I need to worry about. When I put it on it all lined up...  :angry:"

 

 

What you saw is perfectly normal--the belt marks and pulley marks only line up once every-so-many revolutions (can't remember the number of revs offhand.)

 

The big question is what marks did you use to align the crank and cam pulleys before you hung the belt?

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the marks on the cams MUST always match up with the marks on the engine.

(crank too, but you can't see that mark unless you remove the pulley or took the time to mark the pulley.)

 

the belt lines up once every 739 rotations.

 

but as asked, did you use the right timing marks?

not the arrows, never the arrows.

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God no... I didn't use the arrows. When I put it all back together the block, cam, and belt marks all lined up. 

I finally caved in and got an appointment to have it looked at by someone else. When (if) I figure out what the issue

is I'll update and let ya know. Im sure its something horribly simple......

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Check the hoses from the valve covers to the Intake tube.

 

Check the hose at the back of the block up to a T and then into the PCV.

 

Check the hose between that T and the intake tube.

 

Check the Big hose for the IAC is connected to the intake tube.

 

It's one of these.

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With a friend, have them run the car with the foot on the gas (as this is stated on how you can keep it running) and you take a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner or carb cleaner and start spraying on all the hoses, fittings, intake gasket area, throttle body, etc etc. When you hear the rpm's change you have hound the source of your leak. 

Edited by Mugs

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Just an update-

The guy I took it to found the issue, I left a paper towel somewhere in the passenger side head.  :angry:  :angry:  :angry:

Their gonna try to get it out so hopefully it'll run after that.

 

Thanks for all the advice and help!

Edited by twister5voy

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