briankk Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Picked up entire GL-10 rear suspension today, ran the loyale up on ramps a climbed under for a look.. I was most worried about the brake hardware routing and how to plumb in the GL-10 proportioning valve. The Loyale is exactly the same, but for the drum brakes, already has proportioning valve plumbed in. Now, either the valves look the same but differ internally, or the GL-10 must have a different master cylinder, but I can't get a straight answer on the subject, including from Subaru. So, here is plan. Will replace the Loyale bits with the GL-10 bits, but for the proportioning valve, and see if rears tend to lock up. If so, will replace Loyale MC with GL-10 part, and try again. If this fixes the problem, the MCs are different. If it doesn't fix the problem, will replace Loyale proportioning valve with identical-looking part from GL-10. If that fixes the problem, it's the valve. Gonna need gallons of brake fluid.. bk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 (edited) Picked up entire GL-10 rear suspension today, ran the loyale up on ramps a climbed under for a look.. I was most worried about the brake hardware routing and how to plumb in the GL-10 proportioning valve. The Loyale is exactly the same, but for the drum brakes, already has proportioning valve plumbed in. Now, either the valves look the same but differ internally, or the GL-10 must have a different master cylinder, but I can't get a straight answer on the subject, including from Subaru. So, here is plan. Will replace the Loyale bits with the GL-10 bits, but for the proportioning valve, and see if rears tend to lock up. If so, will replace Loyale MC with GL-10 part, and try again. If this fixes the problem, the MCs are different. If it doesn't fix the problem, will replace Loyale proportioning valve with identical-looking part from GL-10. If that fixes the problem, it's the valve. Gonna need gallons of brake fluid.. bk At least the brake system will be flushed and clean when you are done Edited September 13, 2013 by Crazyeights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 Just swap the rear discs in - the proportioning valve is fine! I've done this with my L series - with fresh fluid, new rotors and pads you'll have AMAZING L series braking compared to what you have now!CheersBennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankk Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Just swap the rear discs in - the proportioning valve is fine! I've done this with my L series - with fresh fluid, new rotors and pads you'll have AMAZING L series braking compared to what you have now! Cheers Bennie Was tempted to do just that, BUT.. My Loyale now has 405000 miles on it, and the rear shocks, brakes, a couple of bushings, and one wheel bearing are all shot. The GL I robbed of its rear suspension only had 76k on it when it went to the junkyard, years ago, and all the various bits look new, but for some rust on the disks.. Unsure of what years of junkyard neglect will have had on the shocks, but hey, they cost me $5 each, guess it's worth the gamble... bk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankk Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 Got the right rear totally disconnected, but for the half shaft, which has become one with the stub axle. Why yes, now that you mention it, I did remember to drive the roll pin out, for all the good it did. Been at with crowbars, hammers, bigger hammers, none work. Tomorrow, back to the junkyard to check GL rear end ratio, mine is 3.90. If it's compatible I just drop the whole wretched mess and replace the whole rear end assembly with the GL parts. Otherwise, going to put the old rear end back together, without the roll pins or the new brakes, etc, and drive it around for whatever time it takes me to find a 3.90 rear end that has half shafts that are actually removable from the stub axle.. Wonder what the deal is? Rust, I guess. Should this thing be assembled with spline lube, or anti-seize, or what? and FWIW, the axles I'm trying to remove seem to be in excellent condition, no torn boots, clunking sounds, or other visible distress bk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
briankk Posted September 17, 2013 Author Share Posted September 17, 2013 Spent Sunday putting the original bits and pieces back in, since I can't remove them. Back to junkyard, GL-10 has an open 3.70 axle. Guess I'm stuck 'till I can get to Pick'nPull to get a proper rear end lump. But the old GL-10 rear struts are a huge improvement over what was there, and cost 10 bucks all in. Went back today and got the fronts for another 20 bucks.. Can't escape feeling I'm wearing my cleanest dirty shirt.. bk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 ... Now, either the valves look the same but differ internally, or the GL-10 must have a different master cylinder, but I can't get a straight answer on the subject, including from Subaru. ... As far as I Know: Subaru used the Same proportioning measurements on both rear brakes' systems, Drum or Disc; I did the Rear disc brakes' Swap years ago without changin' anything on the Brakes' Lines nor Master Cylinder, and the Car works Awesome, without issues; even with the Rear Honda Calipers. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.