2001 Outback 2.5; Timing belt snapped at freeway speed

[ivans imports]

Have 20 of those heads and one compleate good engine from 05 forester heads 200 a set engine 1200 $ new belt wp idler valve cover gaskets ect they are in very high demand and i sell everyone i get and buy all from local yards and still not enuff 2.5s to go round

[J A Blazer]

So how overdue was it for a timing belt change?

[ChuChi]

See my post on the first page.  According to the receipts we got when we bought the car, this belt has 65K miles on it.  Not what I would call 'overdue'.  Cause of the break is still unknown.  No evidence of abnormal belt wear (other than the break), idlers and tensioner in good shape for the most part, some small gaps in the timing belt cover seals but not dirty inside.  

 

 

And my next round of questions:

 

1) Suggestions for preparation of the gasket mounting surface of the block?  Again everyone seems to have their favorite.  I'm planning on starting with carb cleaner and a gasket scraper and only escalating to scotchbrite if I need to.  

 

2)  During the process of pulling the motor I ended up removing the water pipe from the top of the block.  This is what the upper radiator hose attaches too and has a single large connection to each side of the block.  The gaskets that are in there now appear to be flat, black, hard plastic, washers.  The local dealer wasn't sure on the part, but gave me rubber o-rings since the computer told him to.  What should I be using?

Nothing came up in a search so it can't be that complicated, but this is something I want to make sure isn't leaky...

 

3) One of the bolts attaching the power steering pump to the block stripped out.  Recommendations on repair? Heli-coil?

[idosubaru]

cleaning - you're on it with the plan of attack there.  the yellow roloc disks made for aluminum are often used too, available at napa, keep in mind to still be cautious and don't go bonkers on it.

 

i probably already said it - but GD has a fantastic post on how to resurface your old heads.  it's worth the time savings alone.

 

i've replaced tons of those orings - get them from Subaru just like you did and clean up, install new orings while it's apart.

 

power steering has more than sufficient fasteners holding it in place, leave the bolt out, i routinely leave out a power steering and a/c compressor bolts, there are way too many anyway.  you can try a longer bolt and see if you can reach existing threads deeper in the block (i do this all the time, but have never done it on a p/s pump bolt) - best to clean it out with a tap first though if it's already hogged up.  or yeah - helicoil it if you want to.

Edited October 17, 2013 by grossgary

[ChuChi]

Cool. Good to know I'm on the right track. For the heads I sent them to a shop to be refurbed/repaired. I have trust issues with used so would end up refurbing those anyway if I bought them. Replacing the valves is cheaper than a used set of heads so I went for it. If this was just replacing a leaky head gasket and I trusted the heads I pulled off, I completely would've gone with the GD bench resurface.

 

The only thing that threw me with the water pipe was how different the o-ring they gave me was from the piece I pulled off. Hard plastic washer vs. squishy rubber ring. The size is right though.

 

Interesting thoughts on the PS-pump. Guess I'll see how I feel about it once it's all back together and make the decision then.

Edited October 17, 2013 by ChuChi

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