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Hey everyone, I am starting to prepare for rallycross. I own a 1990 5spd Loyale with an EA82. Car is stock except for Spectre cone filter, fitted to a MAF adapter(3"). Also, the drivers seat is a stock bucket seat from a Nissan 240sx, with rail adapters I made here at home. I also have mudflaps which are custom made. SO, I have a few things to do before I believe this car is ready to go sling mud around. 

 

Before anyone says anything, I am aware that this car isn't a "race-ready" vehicle, nor is it really typical for any sort of motorsport event. From what I've read about rallycross, it's about having fun and getting the car out there, not being fast and competitive. Thats what i'm looking for. I don't want to destroy the car, I want to go have fun. I have no problem driving conservatively on the track, and i'm confident that my car will do fine. I'm not out to build some badass screaming turbo race car.. I want to take a virtually stock car and improve my abilities, along with getting a feel for basic motorsports. I would assume everyone on here sees what I mean, but still, I feel like I have to say something.

 

Alright, here is what i have in mind that should get me ready to go play. 

 

CAR

-Battery tie down(i have none)

-set of good tires

-relocate AWD button to dash and get aftermarket shift knob

-put on skidplate

-fire extinguisher

-straight pipe with cat

 

ITEMS TO BUY

-approved helmet

-gloves

-SCCA membership

-gas can

-tarp

-jumper cables

 

 

Questions: 1) Will my aftermarket seat be a problem for the inspection? Custom made adapters had to be made to make the seat fit in my car. It's sturdy, and not anything completely ridiculous. The seatbelt works and is positioned correctly.

 

 

Other than what I have said, does anyone have any advice or recommendations for me? I would really appreciate it. I'm new to this, obviously. I'm a huge rally fan, and I live in the Pacific Northwest. I'll be participating in Sports Car Club of America events. I'll upload pictures of progress.

 

Thank you guys!

 

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Sounds like you are on the right path, though these cars are LOUD with a straight pipe, and a decent modern performance muffler will not impede flow. I wouldn't worry about the shift knob for now. Also, the open filter may actually be less efficient without an effective heat shield, the stock intake box is not restrictive with a good filter. As long as your seat mounts are solid, you should have no problem with tech. Occasionally you will get a real picky inspector, but my experience was at Road America, which might be a bit different...

 

Make sure you get a decent SA2010 helmet, I really like my HJC AR10II. I am more of a track guy and have run BMWs and RX7s at various events in the past, but did a rallycross in a 2.5RS once. Good times. Most of all, don't stress out trying to post FTD, just have fun! The Grassroots Motorsports forum is a good place to be for amateur racers and there are a lot of PacNW guys on there, worth checking out, great resource.

Edited by ShakotanBoogie

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skidplate for rear diff

rubber flaps mounted under the rear suspension in front of the CV joints. These are prone to having stuff thrown at them by the front wheels

 

double skin the front plastic inner guards. ie just get another pair & fit them over the top. Or make some out of the same material as you used for the mudflaps. The last thing you need is for a rock or stick to punch through the wiring loom leaving you stranded...

 

Weld up the rear diff to make it a locker

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Rear LSD or welded up rear diff if you don't drive on the street. The rear LSD will make the biggest change in the predictability of being able to throw the car around. I can't stress how much better the car will rotate with a good clutch type LSD.

 

Leave the shifter alone. On some courses it may be handy to quickly shift between FWD and 4x4.

 

You could try advancing the timing a bit and running premium gas. Keep the RPM's up. The redline is just a suggestion, and the valves don't float till past 8k. You will get a feel for where the power starts to drop off and shift there.

 

Swaybars off an xt6 would be good. They're thicker and will help keep the car flat in turns.

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I cant risk throwing it between FWD and AWD during the race, AWD can bind on the disengage. I dont think i'll be needing FWD when i'm wheels deep in mud and gravel, personally.. I re routed the switch today, along with doing my battery tie down. Thanks for reminding me, suspension sway bars and the engine bay sway bar are on the list too.

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Do you have a full time 4wd trans, or a part time 4wd? It's not clear.

But if you're talking about a switch, I suspect full time 4wd.

 

Either way, just lock it in. You'll be on & off the dirt enough that any binding caused by being on tarmac will "unwind" itself when you hit the dirt.

Locked centre + locked rear will make the rear slide more predictably.

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Like others have said sway bars and LSD if you can find one.  One of the main annoyances of the older gen Subarus is under-steer in low traction situations.  A rear sway bar will help that and an LSD.  That's the main reason I would caution about a locked rear diff...it will want to push you straight.  If you go that route I am sure you can compensate after you get used to it, but I think the LSD would be better.  Some stiffer shocks in the back might also help assist a rear sway bar.  

 

Whenever I rip donuts in my '81 hatch in the snow the under-steer gets a little frustrating.  I don't have a rear sway bar and my front tires aren't toed in as much as spec so they don't wear-out so fast but my donuts are often much larger than I am really going for.  The toe-in spec for the older gens is to compensate for the under-steer.  Since your Loyale has a longer wheelbase it will probably do better than an ea81 hatch as far as under-steer but it's something to think about.  I'm in Milwaukie too btw.

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Like others have said sway bars and LSD if you can find one.  One of the main annoyances of the older gen Subarus is under-steer in low traction situations.  A rear sway bar will help that and an LSD.  That's the main reason I would caution about a locked rear diff...it will want to push you straight.  If you go that route I am sure you can compensate after you get used to it, but I think the LSD would be better.  Some stiffer shocks in the back might also help assist a rear sway bar.  

 

Whenever I rip donuts in my '81 hatch in the snow the under-steer gets a little frustrating.  I don't have a rear sway bar and my front tires aren't toed in as much as spec so they don't wear-out so fast but my donuts are often much larger than I am really going for.  The toe-in spec for the older gens is to compensate for the under-steer.  Since your Loyale has a longer wheelbase it will probably do better than an ea81 hatch as far as under-steer but it's something to think about.  I'm in Milwaukie too btw.

Yeah, I need a rear sway bar and new springs all around.. mine are rather worn out. I wouldnt even know where to start on doing an LSD. My diff needs serviced, it hasnt been opened in a while. Could be the time to replace it, I'll look into LSD more. Awesome that you're in Milwaukie too! My loyale is blue camo, maybe you'll catch a glimpse someday. haha

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Idk what regs you're running in but you're gonna need a cage for sure. Check with the website. Theirs usually a ton of safety specs you have to meet.

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Idk what regs you're running in but you're gonna need a cage for sure. Check with the website. Theirs usually a ton of safety specs you have to meet.

no way do i need a cage, im talking about rallycross, not stage rally. people run daily drivers all the time. i've already gone through the SCCA rule book, and you dont need a cage

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Yeah, I need a rear sway bar and new springs all around.. mine are rather worn out. I wouldnt even know where to start on doing an LSD. My diff needs serviced, it hasnt been opened in a while. Could be the time to replace it, I'll look into LSD more. Awesome that you're in Milwaukie too! My loyale is blue camo, maybe you'll catch a glimpse someday. haha

 

The LSD would be a lucky junkyard score or purchase from another member.  You can get a OBX helical LSD for the front, but that's some $ and requires opening the transmission.  Might be more than you are looking for, but it would be awesome.  

 

I'll keep an eye out for the blue camo.  I drive a black and white '81 Hatch, actually my wife drives it more than me, so you may see her cruising around.

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I might be coming into another EA82 sedan soon, and this is what I want to do with it. Subscribed with interest!

 

Rally/RallyCross I think is more fun than Solo or drag... and it seems it can be done cheaper/less invested than other forms and still be competitive... now just to find a group in NEOhio...

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My bad smith lol. I jumped the gun. But hey I would love to see a loyale on a rally stage again!

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sorry to bring up an old-ish thread, but seeing as you mentioned upgrading the sway bars and springs, what sway bars would you go with?

 

i'm putting together sort of a list of things i need/want to fix/upgrade on my wagon..

(is there a "what fits on what" thread? i've got a 91 loyale push button 4wd)

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