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97 Outback girl needs help!


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Mb4lunch mentioned I may have warped my engine when it overheated, is there a way i can check that?

The bigger concern with the dohc ej25 is the bearings. They don't take well to overheating. None of these engines do well if they're overheated, but this particular 2.5 has smaller rod bearings than the others, which is a weak point.

 

It doesn't sound like yours was extremely overheated, so it has a good chance of being just fine with new head gaskets. Unfortunately the worst effects don't show up for another 5-10,000 miles or more.

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Have done so many of this engine latly i can tell exactly how good bottom end is by listening on cold startup any more than half to 3/4 of a seconed for oil light to go out bottom end is getting tierd also any knocking Other than piston slap on startup is bad. Am talking about in the very 1rst 1 second of startup is when the motor will talk to you After 1rst start must wait till compeatly cold to try again. Anyway I fix this problem all day every day. But if still runing ok I whould redo headgaskets and good to go. Or look for good 2.2 engine from wreakers

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Oh god fairtaxforme....so I could fix it and in 5-10k it could die again? This is very tricky decieding what to do. I have found some wrecked subies which apparently have good engines. One guy told me he has changed the gaskets and seals, I asked if he had receipts/proof and he said that he didn't but that you can clearly see the heads have been acid bathed or glass beaded which is a sure sighn it has been reconditioned. Does this sound right to you guys? Its a manual 98 model but he sais it will go straight in, im a little dubious thought you would have to do something else with the transmission being different?

 

I still need to figure out if the engines warped/cranks bent, ive just been looking at engines as I think that would be the easier safer option. I will try your startup method ivans imports, im not sure if I will be able to diagnose it though as im not so familiar with what the knocking would sounds like. I'll check back in and describe what I experience, thanks again everyone

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Oh god fairtaxforme....so I could fix it and in 5-10k it could die again? This is very tricky decieding what to do. I have found some wrecked subies which apparently have good engines. One guy told me he has changed the gaskets and seals, I asked if he had receipts/proof and he said that he didn't but that you can clearly see the heads have been acid bathed or glass beaded which is a sure sighn it has been reconditioned. Does this sound right to you guys? Its a manual 98 model but he sais it will go straight in, im a little dubious thought you would have to do something else with the transmission being different?

 

I still need to figure out if the engines warped/cranks bent, ive just been looking at engines as I think that would be the easier safer option. I will try your startup method ivans imports, im not sure if I will be able to diagnose it though as im not so familiar with what the knocking would sounds like. I'll check back in and describe what I experience, thanks again everyone

Eva, I have heard that a good Subie engine tech can look at a 2.5 motor like yours, or the one from a 98 model, which is the same as yours, and look at the end corners of the HGs. If they have been changed, the appearance of the new HG will be different.

 

The 98 motor will bolt into your car with no modification

 

Here in the U.S. many time a 2.2 motor from a '95-97 will be used to replace a 2.5 motor. That is what I did on my 98 Outback. I installed a '95, 2.2 motor with no modifications.  I am happy with the result. The 2.2 motor is super reliable, with minimal head gasket problems.

 

Hope you find a good solution to your engine problem.

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Oh yeah I think I forgot to mention that it had overheated back in march but it was due to the thermostat failing shut. So she has been overheated a few times :/

Multiple overheating episodes are the primary killer of the DOHC 2.5. One minor overheat isnt a big deal, but when it happens several times the odds really stack against you.

 

I'd hate to tell you it would be fine to fix the problems it currently has and have it put a rod through the block in a few months.

 

I'd try to find a 2.2 out of a 95 to drop in it. Very common swap here in the US. I'm sure plenty of people there have done it as well.

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Standard / auto same same The stock gaskets have a rivit hole on top were gasket is exsposed replacment ones do not. I whould not use a glass beaded head ever as it is almost imposibble to get all sand out and can damage a bottom end. the startup bottom end diagnosis is how long exactly in millaseconds it takes for oil light to go out on cold startup this is my best diagnostic tool for bottom end a good 2.5d 1-2 milaseconds a bad one 4-6 a realy bad one 1-2 seconds. And any knocking before light gos out bad nosie that stops when oil light gos out

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I did this job about two years ago on my Forester S 1998 with the dreaded EJ25D, and I've had no problems whatsoever with it again. I took the chance and overhauled the entire engine which cost me around $250 for ACL brand Engine Bearings, I had to replace pistons, but it was my fault, nothing to do with HG. The entire seal kit for the engine cost me around $150 and it included original Subaru HGs (newer version), also did Timing Belt, Water Pump, Tensioners and Idlers, and ALL coolant hoses; all this for around $235 being the timing belt kit the most expensive. Did all the job myself, except Head reconditioning which was another $250 ($125x2), that and some special tools needed for the job it all came down to a around $1,000, but no regrets the car runs great, she's got minor issues, but in over all great car.

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Funny thig is the only 2.5ds i see problems with bottom end are ones that have already been taken apart and worked on. The ones that have never been apart bottom ends are mostly good

The only problem I've had afterwards was with the valve covers; one of the threads gave up on torque and it leaked oil, plus I hit a stump and the pan is now leaking from the seal, but besides the leak and the burnt oil smell she runs like a devil, although its been sputtering a little when I accelerate on take offs, I think it may be the fuel  pump :unsure:

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