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4drbrat

EA82 running problems

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Long time listener, first time caller here.  

i have an 89 GL wagon with an EA82 SPFI non-turbo.  I can't figure out why I'm having some intermittent running problems with it, and I'm hoping you guys can help.

 

When I can get it started, it fires right up and runs great.  But that's only about a quarter of the time.  the other 75% of the time, it'll crank over and try to run, but it won't idle and when i try to give it gas, it bogs down and dies.  When i do get it going, it'll run fine until i shut it off.  then there's a one in four chance it'll start again.  

 

Here's some additional background info on it;

It is a 100% off road rig.  By that, I don't just mean it has a roll cage - we're talking no dash/interior.  All gauges are aftermarket and mechanical.

The problem started while exploring some trails - it was less frequent at first.  it has gotten progressively worse in the last 6 months.  

 

I read on here that a similar problem was solved by checking/drying/replacing the wires going to the injector.  I check them, and there is no damage.  They are dry, and continuity is good.  My injector sprays great for it's initial burst when the ignition is turned on.  Fuel lines have been checked.  fuel is flowing freely.  

After checking the injector, the car fired right up, and i thought i found the problem.  I shut it off, fired it up, no problems.  Then i let it sit for five minutes, and it wouldn't start again.  

 

So i tried fidgeting/checking the injector wires again; still wouldn't start.

So i tried cleaning/inspecting TPS; still wouldn't start.

So i tried unplugging the IAC.  after adjusting the throttle butterfly valve, it seemed to run... not great, but it ran.  

 

Waited ten minutes... and it wouldn't start.  

 

Any suggestions would really help me on this.

Thanks in advance for the help!

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It might be worth checking the coolant temperature sensor (CTS).  In my experience, they get flaky before they die. Mine went in the spring, and I ran for a week or 2 without, now it is cold, it will be really hard to start if it is not right.

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See if it is really a fuel issue.  When you get a no-start condition, spray some starter fluid or other supplemental fuel into the intake and see what it does.  If this does not alter the behavior, look elsewhere...

 

Like the ignition.  Make sure that the coil bracket is properly grounded.

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sounds like a fuel problem to me. Sounds like you have checked most of the system, have you checked the fuel pump ? 

 

Next time it doesn't want to start try rapping the fuel pump with the handle of a screwdriver a few times.   if the car starts it is likely time to replace the pump.  (may take more than one try).

 

I had this problem with my car and struggeld to find the cause.  A Subaru mechanic showed me that test and I was able to verify the source and solve my starting problem.

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I would inspect all the fuel lines for trail dammage before messing w/ the engine. could be a branch or something wedged in there messing up the works.

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Make sure you also play with the connections of the injector and IAC when this no-start occurs. I went nuts for weeks tracking down an intermittent IAC code and a fall-on-her-face idle before I found a frayed wire INSIDE the connector..

 

Any codes/CEL by chance?

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you guys are definitely a lot of help.

It sounds like fuel delivery is the place to start.  My pump is definitely running well.  It's the newest thing on the vehicle, I can hear it running, and I disconnected a fuel line to determine if it was clogged somewhere, and it had full flow.  

All wires on the IAC appear to be in great condition.  I will have to trace them this weekend to make sure they didn't get pinched somewhere.

I think i'll also have to hook up an LED to my check engine light wire on the computer to see if I'm getting any codes. 

My suspicion is that my injector isn't spraying except for the initial startup burst.  But i don't know the conditions that cause the injector to spray - I assume it sprays more when the throttle is open.  

Does anybody know where i can find the expected ohm readings on the TPS at different levels of open?

 

I'll be tinkering with it this weekend, and i'll update with my results.  

thanks again for the help.

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The codes only display from the LED on the side of the ECU. The only code you should be getting (assuming no codes) is a single digit.. (like 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5. That is the ECU identity code) Anything else is a set trouble code.

 

A malfunctioning CAS will also not pulse the injector. However, this will pop a code if the ECU isn't picking up a pulse signal when trying to start or run. You also won't continue to hear the FP run. Check the rotor to make sure it's spinning and isn't floppy on the shaft.

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If you suspect a fuel problem then the fuel filter is the first place to start by replacing it. I tend to think you might have an ignition problem myself or an intermittent power problem to the ignition. Possibly the igniter might be intermittent. Make sure the fusible links are making solid connection that are inside the box on the coolant reservoir. Check the intake manifold gaskets for leaks. 

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