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And no need to do the boot until the axle goes bad, unless you object to the grease that might get slung around the torn boot. We've driven with torn boots for 20,000 before the axle itself went bad.

Edited by lneulicht

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If you can do it yourself its cheaper to re-boot it, but shops don't like doing that. They would rather put a whole new axle on because its faster.

 

Did they say what was wrong with the steering rack? Or just said you need a new on?

The racks tend to leak a bit from the o-rings on the fluid lines, and o-rings are cheap and easy to replace.

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I'm not one hundred percent sure what is wrong with it. I'm picking up the car around 1400 PST today, and he said he'd go over everything with me. I'll get all the details on everything. I've also got it set up to take into another mechanic next week for a second opinion. I'll probably get new tires put on tomorrow along with getting the alignment done.

 

When I bought the car, I was able to get him down in price a bit as  one of the tires doesn't match the other three. So I'll be getting a new set on it. Don't want to jack up the AWD system with different tires, not to mention breaking/steering potentially being an issue.

 

It just sucks as three of the tires were at 70% tread with the mismatched one being at 40%.

Edited by Marmaduke

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That's a big difference in tires. Hope it wasn't driven too long with difference or it will ruin the center diff. Axles can be had new from Rock Auto for ~$60. We've used 2 with no problems. As was said, do the thermostat and hose first. The other stuff can wait.

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I'm not one hundred percent sure what is wrong with it. I'm picking up the car around 1400 PST today, and he said he'd go over everything with me. I'll get all the details on everything. I've also got it set up to take into another mechanic next week for a second opinion. I'll probably get new tires put on tomorrow along with getting the alignment done.

 

When I bought the car, I was able to get him down in price a bit as  one of the tires doesn't match the other three. So I'll be getting a new set on it. Don't want to jack up the AWD system with different tires, not to mention breaking/steering potentially being an issue.

 

It just sucks as three of the tires were at 70% tread with the mismatched one being at 40%.

 

If the tires were the same size (matching numbers) you're okay. a little tread difference wont do anything to the trans.

 

If they are different size tires or if you can take a tape measure to it and find a different diameter then it's time to get them matched up.

 

The AWD system is not as sensitive as some think. If it were, we'd all destroy the drive train every time a tire gets low on air or we get a flat.

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If the tires were the same size (matching numbers) you're okay. a little tread difference wont do anything to the trans.

 

If they are different size tires or if you can take a tape measure to it and find a different diameter then it's time to get them matched up.

 

The AWD system is not as sensitive as some think. If it were, we'd all destroy the drive train every time a tire gets low on air or we get a flat.

 

 

I believe they are the same size/diameter. I'm still getting a new set put on. I will be driving this car over chains required mountain passes multiple times in the upcoming months and would feel better with everything matching.

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Got the car back from the mechanic. Total bill was $307.31 after tax for the thermostat, radiator hose, coolant, labor, and an oil change. He said he test drove it and the problem was fixed, so I'm feeling okay with what I paid.

 

As far as the other issues go, I was told the following:

 

-Timing Belt: Looks like it was done around 100,000 mile mark. Will need a new one soon though (currently at 170,000). He said the cams are leaking. Total quote for all of that looks to be roughly $1,000.

 

-Right front Half Shaft (CV Boot) plus labor would be about $300 after tax.

 

- Steering rack with labor and alignment would be another $800 after labor and tax.

 

----------------------

 

What I'm for the car so far:

 

$3,400 + $300 taxes. Registration good for another two months.

 

$300 for oil change, thermostat, and radiator hose.

 

So that's $4,000 total. I'm going to try and make it to Costco tonight for tires. I was quoted $411 installed for the cheapest set, but will probably go up a notch for my piece of mind. That'll be another $500, bringing me up to $4,500 total.

 

It also needs new wiper blades, reverse lights, fog lights, and brights. So That'll be another $100.00.

 

I'll eventually get her completely put back together. Looking to commission in the Navy soon. So I'll drive this into the ground and then hopefully be able to finance something decent. (WRX).

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$1000 is insanely expensive for a timing belt job on this car, So is $300 for a thermostat and an oil change to be honest. I think we need to find you a better mechanic.

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Flat rate book I'm looking at lists .6 hours for thermostat  and .2  for an oil change. Parts should cost $40 or so ?

 

Flat rate for the timing belt is 2.6 hours

Edited by lneulicht

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$1000 is insanely expensive for a timing belt job on this car, So is $300 for a thermostat and an oil change to be honest. I think we need to find you a better mechanic.

+1 on way too expensive. Time to shop around for a much lower price to have the work done.

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there is nothing better than a true subaru new or re-man axle.

except possibly one from MWE or wht ever it's called now.

 

look for shawnW on this site, or retroroo.com, he sells them.

 

next best, is new boots on your old subaru axles.

even if it cost more than a cheap new or re-man axle from a parts store,

it will out last longer.

 

send him a message and ask.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142941-rebuilt-fwe-subaru-axles-now-listed-in-retroroo-ebay-store/

Edited by johnceggleston

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Someone gutted the thermostat or removed it entirely, probably trying to cure an overheating issue, which on that 2.5 means head gaskets. While the engine is warm and running look for bubbles coming up in the overflow reservoir. Bubbles are a sure sign.

 

Get a Subaru thermostat or a Stant Exactstat. The cheapies you will have problems with. Pop it in and see how it does.

Read up on how to properly fill and bleed the cooling system, air pockets are guaranteed with these engines and need to be properly worked out or you will overheat.

Someone on Craig's list in Indy is selling a 97 OBW with known bad head gaskets. In the ad write-up, seller says he removed the thermostat, so he could continue driving with the bad HGs. I guess this is the red neck approach to HG repairs. Learn something new every day.

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Someone on Craig's list in Indy is selling a 97 OBW with known bad head gaskets. In the ad write-up, seller says he removed the thermostat, so he could continue driving with the bad HGs. I guess this is the red neck approach to HG repairs. Learn something new every day.

At least he/she is honest!

I would only consider it as a temporary solution if I needed to drive the car to get home, but some people drive for months with no thermostat. Sometimes people just don't have the money to fix it right away and have only the one car to get around.

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At least he/she is honest!

I would only consider it as a temporary solution if I needed to drive the car to get home, but some people drive for months with no thermostat. Sometimes people just don't have the money to fix it right away and have only the one car to get around.

Yea, Subies get driven in spite of needing all kinds of repairs, because owners just don't have the money to get things fixed. I have read that repeatedly, as posted by many others on this fourm. Used Subie owners are often people just financially barely scraping along in life. That applies to me as well.

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I've owned a multitude of different cars over the years (usually end up getting unique cars with some HP) and have been working on my own rides since 15 (35 now). I paid $850 for my Legacy Wagon with 177k miles. Interior was in REALLY good shape, body fair, it needed a rear cross member ($18 at Pull-A-Part), rear brake line ($10 + brake fluid), obligatory timing belt as age of previous was unknown (think I paid $18 for the belt, repacked the pulleys), had a bad valve stem so all 4 were replaced at $10 each ($40), driver side CV boot lost the metal clamp, so a new one from Auto Zone was put on ($3), upgraded replacement alternator (130 amp; cost $25 +shipping/core charge), oil and trans fluid change ($30 for synthetic and filter, trans fluid around $15), air and fuel filter (around $15 for both) new plugs and wires (around $25). Not only are these cars REALLY cheap to work on or replace parts, they are also VERY easy to work on. Those quotes you are getting are super ridiculous. You can do most of the repairs with very basic hand tools. Even if you don't have many, you can drop $100 on a ratchet, some sockets, a good breaker bar (for the suspension parts) and maybe a $25 floor jack and a cheap set of jack stands for good measure and you just saved a couple grand to put towards that WRX you eventually want to buy ;)

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Head gaskets typically do cause overheating. What people do to alleviate the problem is often to drill holes in the thermostat, which can cause the behavior described by the OP, since the thermostat is no longer able to close and keep coolant temp up where its supposed to be.

I understand this…..

 

What I don't understand is why does a higher RPM not cause temperature to increase?  I understand that a higher RPM turns the water pump faster, thus moving more coolant to cool the car.  However, doesn't a higher RPM also equal more combustion gases being added to the coolant (and combustion gases is why a car can heat up with a head gasket problem)?  It seems like it should either increase the coolant temperature, not lower it.  

 

Any thoughts for this greenhorn?  Thanks.  

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I understand this…..

 

What I don't understand is why does a higher RPM not cause temperature to increase?  I understand that a higher RPM turns the water pump faster, thus moving more coolant to cool the car.  However, doesn't a higher RPM also equal more combustion gases being added to the coolant (and combustion gases is why a car can heat up with a head gasket problem)?  It seems like it should either increase the coolant temperature, not lower it.  

 

Any thoughts for this greenhorn?  Thanks.  

The concept that is missing here, is that engine load is not being considered. A Subie with bad HGs will idle in Park gear all day without over heating, or casually driven at low speed with no over heating. However, take the car out on the interstate, and climb some hills, and watch the temp spike to hot. The work load on the engine increases to climb a long, or steep hill forces, when the driver to gives the car more fuel to keep the speed up. Engine RPM doesn't go up, but the engine is stressed more, so creates more heat, and then "wham" the HGs start failing big time, by allowing that extra hot engine heat from the exhaust to get pushed right into the engine cooling system. The cooling system of water pump, fans, and radiator can't compete with all that hot exhaust gas entering the cooling system. Game over, the engine over heats suddenly. This is how all Subies with bad HGs behave.

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The concept that is missing here, is that engine load is not being considered. A Subie with bad HGs will idle in Park gear all day without over heating, or casually driven at low speed with no over heating. However, take the car out on the interstate, and climb some hills, and watch the temp spike to hot. The work load on the engine increases to climb a long, or steep hill forces, when the driver to gives the car more fuel to keep the speed up. Engine RPM doesn't go up, but the engine is stressed more, so creates more heat, and then "wham" the HGs start failing big time, by allowing that extra hot engine heat from the exhaust to get pushed right into the engine cooling system. The cooling system of water pump, fans, and radiator can't compete with all that hot exhaust gas entering the cooling system. Game over, the engine over heats suddenly. This is how all Subies with bad HGs behave.

Ahh, that makes sense (and makes me feel potentially better about my situation).  I thought/think I am in the HG nightmare right now, but I ran mine up a pretty good pass (over the Blue Mountains on I-84 out of Pendleton, Oregon) and it ran just fine on the temps.  It heats up just a bit (to 105 deg C) when I am on the flat terrain.  I just started a new thread regarding this issue.  

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Just as a heads up to everyone, the radiator hose and new thermostat seems to have fixed the issue. Here she is after her first trek off pavement with me. Just headed into the hills to do a little shooting.

 

1509062_10202924342049075_823466689_n.jp

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Just as a heads up to everyone, the radiator hose and new thermostat seems to have fixed the issue. Here she is after her first trek off pavement with me. Just headed into the hills to do a little shooting.

 

1509062_10202924342049075_823466689_n.jp

Nice looking Subie. Looks like you and your car are parked on an alien planet. Looks like shot gun shells on the alien terrain.

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Nice looking Subie. Looks like you and your car are parked on an alien planet. Looks like shot gun shells on the alien terrain.

 

^Good eye!

 

 

Nice looking sedan btw.

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