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New Engine/ Bad Mileage, What to Check?


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Taking car back tomorrow AM for rear mainseal replacement.

 

Swaped out 2.5 for 2.2.  Wished I did it long before, but couple issues I need help on.

 

To clarify, the new engine is not actually new, but new for this car. Came from junk yard.

My '98 OB Leg. w/ 2.5 L at 200,000Mi. threw a timing belt AGAIN!

Hasn't been more that 25K mi. since the last one bent valves, etc.

Tensioner was suppossedly replaced.  Belt was in good shape both times.

 

This last time, since car in good shape otherwise, I decided to go w/ a used 2.2L

used replacement.  Engine comes from unknown source, so taking mechanics word for it

having 104,000mi. on it.  Job was $1000, and car is only transportation.

Its leaked oil by the half quart at a time, less than 80mi. so took it back for possible oil pan gasket.

Oil pan gasket replaced w/RTV, but still leaks from back side.  About 2 quarts on garage floor.  Once engine warms up and pull into parking space in parking lot, its drips fast and hard.

Tomorrow getting rear main seal replaced once again.  Told it was replaced

upon installation the other week when engine dropped in, but might have messed it up.

 

Not missing, and power is OK, but even though driving it very conservatively, the gas mileage has gone down almost 10mpg from the lousy old 200k 2.5L engine it had!

My check engine light does not show code, but not sure if its hooked up.  I've been without car for nearly one month while waiting for them to do this job.  Glad I got it back, but NOT as is.

If I ask for another engine, I'm concerned I'll end up w/ another month and no better engine than this.  It runs as smooth as expected for 100+K and haven't been able to run compression test yet because my tester is the rubber plug type and don't have help to crank it over while I hold it.  However, it pulls up hills and onto hwy. better than previous 2.5.

 

Two main questions:

1.  What should be checked imediately as to why gas mileage dropped so much w/2.2 L engine?  I say Imediately because 30 day warantee w/ run out soon. 

 

2.  How can I know for sure, or what is easiest way to know if computer hooked up when trouble light shows no code?

 

Thanks alot for the help.

 

EQ

Edited by Equalizer
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To repeat it's not the rear main, but the separator plate. Any Suby mechanic would know to replace the plastic one with the metal one and reseal it.

Regret that you have to endure the downtime. Maybe you can get the mechanic who did the swap to give you some relief in this area, as he SHOULD have known to do this while in there.

 

O.

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First chance to check back today.

 

Travmo,

Sorry to hear about the terrible mileage.  Surprised that my 2.5 got  better than your 2.2 leg.  Filled up on the way there,

16mpg.  Drive like grandma.  Former owner of a garage that worked on hundreds of them said that the mileage was unacceptable and first thing to do is check plugs because that's easiest.

I will go to advanced auto and borrow their gen II mini-reader and see if it has code pending.  I don't know if it will be the right reader, because they told me that it won't show anything if the dash trouble light doesn't light up.  Then again there are a number of things guys selling parts won't know that many of you forum members have more knowledge of when it comes to that.  Will check that ASAP.  THANKS

 

bstone and ocei77,

I will call and mention this to him.  He said something about a metal something that goes over the spindle(?).  I don't have my manual in front of me, but w/try to find diagram of those parts you mentioned on line after this post.

 

Main concern is 30 day warrantee on engine and don't want to be stuck w/a 16mpg or so engine for $1000, so I will call mechanic as soon as I check parts diagram so I can see what you are talking about and not ignorant about issue.

THANKS

 

 

Any other opinions about the mileage, etc?

 

EQ

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The PCV plate is leaking, not the rear main seal.

This would be small drops.

Leaving a puddle on the floor is the rear main, which the OP said was replaced by the shop. Only time rear mains leak is when they get replaced incorrectly.

 

Poor fuel economy is a sensor or fuel system problem, not a mechanical problem with the engine. The 2.2s get the same and often slightly better fuel economy than the 2.5.

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