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1986 subaru 2 door hatctback


turbosubarubrat
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got some more work done on this. Did another oil change. Bought new front rotors, pads front and rear, ball joints, and my friend mike turned the rear rotors at no charge. 

 

Had to change spindles since the ball joint bolt had apparently been broke for quite awhile. Ball joint was pretty bad considering if i jerked on the tire when jacked up i could feel it shift up, down, and sideways.

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Edited by turbosubarubrat
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

When starting up the hatch after getting out of school yesterday it would start then die. If i held into the gas for a couple seconds it would stay running but idle ruff. If you tapped the peddle the rpms would go up then drop to almost dying then back up to idle but really ruff. Checked the codes when i got home. Had a 24 which was new and a 33 which had been there since i didn't hook up the speed sensor wire. Code 24 is for the iac (idle air controller). Which can tell the ecm to not fire 1 or 2 injectors so the rpm's stay low. I read that you could clean it with seafoam by pouring a little down the iac hose. Which was a really bad idea since it just made the engine backfire. I also read that the ecm coolant temp sensor could cause this so i replaced that with a new one. Changed nothing. Had a spare intake so i took the iac off that one since i knew it was good. Put it on after cleaning it with starting fluid. Changed nothing. Then i decided to change ecm's (The harness and ecm that i put in it was out of a 90 legacy with a blink code ecm) with one out of a 91 legacy. The 91 doesn't have the blink light but i tried it anyway and it runs perfect again with no problems. I need to find another 90 ecm to check codes now. When you take both ecm's apart the way they are built is completely different with more stuff in the 90 ecm. Kind of pisses me off since you can't take them apart and swap shells since all the screw holes are different.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

v6 auto Ford tempo springs cut 2 coils still need to cut 1/2 or a whole coil off. They lifted the front about 2 inches so i cranked the torsion bar a little bit so the height is even. They give a better ride with the new gabrial struts but now i have camber in...

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I'm eventually going to upgrade to the 90 legacy brake booster haven't decided on what master cylinder i'm going to use. All the brake boosters have the same bolt pattern as you can see the ea81 spacer on the 90 ej22 booster.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rerouted my exhaust about a month ago.

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Also took off the front flares and put a set of factory ones on 

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Putting in a new heater core and bed lining the inside.

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I'm going to weld the holes shut.

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New heater core in and cleaned up

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May wanna open up at least one on each side of the tunnel... If you get water in there it's got nowhere to go

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May wanna open up at least one on each side of the tunnel... If you get water in there it's got nowhere to go

I have 10 rubber plugs in my floor pan i just welded up the bigger holes. I have one on each side unplugged right now that drain out through the unibody rails so you don't have water spraying in while driving(also have the floor mats in that cover up the holes anyway).

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  • 6 months later...

Nice pipe/tube bending.

 

I suggest you now replace the copper tubing with some steel tubing bent to match.

Copper doesn't like vibrations all that well

Really don't want to be spewing vital engine fluids all over many miles from home.

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Nice pipe/tube bending.

 

I suggest you now replace the copper tubing with some steel tubing bent to match.

Copper doesn't like vibrations all that well

Really don't want to be spewing vital engine fluids all over many miles from home.

I'll see how it holds up. It hasn't started to leak yet. Its mounted pretty sturdy, but i'll keep a dummy light sensor or plug in my tool box just in case it starts spewing bad so i can at least stop the leak to make it home.

 

Any mods other than the 2" extension needed, and obviously new brake lines to the hill holder, to mount the legacy booster? I've got legacy brakes on my 5 lug swapped ea81t coupe that needs a better booster/master setup.

I tried putting a legacy non abs booster in it and had it fit in but it was leaking air. It leaked because i had to hit it in a few places for it to even fit. I also had to dent in the side of the strut tower and put a crease in the firewall/spare tire space which can be seen with primer on it right by the legacy proportioning valve. I would not recommend denting the booster and instead cut the strut tower then reweld it to fit the bigger booster. You might have to slot the booster holes on the firewall some so the booster clears the steering shaft. Mine was so close to the steering shaft i had to use a feeler gauge to make sure it wasn't rubbing. It was also right on the throttle cable. The legacy master cylinder helps even if you just swap it in like i did with the ea81 booster. I would go with the 1" master if you go that route. Maybe a ej18 impreza might have a smaller booster that would work and fit better? Here's some pics to give you a idea what your getting into.

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Edited by turbosubarubrat
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