kickascii Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 So I've had this noise for about 6 months now and thought it was my left-front cv axle because it had a torn boot. I assumed it was just slowly killing itself and I'd change it when I couldn't take the noise any longer. Last night I changed the axle and the noise is still there. DESCRIPTION OF NOISE:: Loudest when turning left AND right. It sounds like a really worn tire that has been chewed up from a bad alignment when turning. It's relative to speed and can feel it a little bit in the steering wheel. HISTORY: I changed the right-front axle about a year ago with an Advance Auto NEW axle (not rebuilt). I can't tell if it's on the left or right side. Could it be that other axle making the 'whirring-grinding' noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) Edited February 22, 2014 by heartless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
szybura Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Jack up the front of your car and pull and push at the top and bottom of your tires. If the bearings are bad they will move in and out. Side to side could be something else so top and bottom. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Also consider that aftermarket axles (NEW or rebuilt) are viewed as potentially problematic in my reading on USMB site. It is possible that the one you replaced a year ago was going bad. Consensus is to always rebuild the Subaru axles if you can as they are more reliable than aftermarkets, so save you old one and reboot it anyway. There is also one or two aftermarket manufacturers that get the thumbs up but NOT Advanced Auto, PepBoys or Autozone or the other chains. I can't recall the manufacturer. Perhaps someone else will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Axles don't generally make grumbling noises like a bearing will. Unfortunately with Subaru bearings its very hard to tell exactly which bearing is bad until its completely toast. Often they make noise for thousands of miles with no other signs and no play. Changing an axle is the best time to check the wheel bearings because you can easily spin the hubs while the axle is out, and feel/listen for roughness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 most likely - bearing less likely - front diff other possibilities - brakes, axles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 I'll see if I can check it out today and will be back. I may not have a chance to take care of it till this weekend. I don't have a press so I guess I would need to take the hub to a shop, right? How much is average charge for something like that? Any issues that might come up; like if the bearing has seized to hub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 what car? newer ones have HBAs and are a little friendlier for DIYers. (at least, the HBA I did on a Chevy was easy) even if press-in, some folks buy/borrow/rent hub tamers w'ever. Myself, I'd probably pay a shop to press it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 A bad wheel bearing won't necessarily pass a wheel wiggle test unless the axle nut is loose. I vote on wheel bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 I took the axle out and caliper/bracket off. Turning the hub definitely makes a noise and is a bit rough. However, now I need a tie rod end. MF'er! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 In order to get the knuckle off, how do I get the ball joint out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 In order to get the knuckle off, how do I get the ball joint out? spray it with Kroil or PB Blaster, starting 2 weeks ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 I guess begin by taking the pinch bolt out, then what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) be careful; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enxj-2rPJLQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ou7_tiKTGAY Edited February 17, 2014 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Hopefully I get the pinch bolt out, what is the easiest way to separate knuckle from control arm? I have a ball joint tool (angled), will that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Ok, I got the pinch bolt out. How do I separate knuckle from ball joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I drop the sway bar link and then with the ball joint nut on the bottom lose but still on beat the lower arm down. It will pull the joint out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Heck of a lot easier to pop the tapered ball-joint stud from the lower control arm, in my opinion, unless you also have to change the ball joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thank you guys, lmdew, I've got a 3lb hammer so I'm gonna give it a shot. I'll put the strut bolts back in and try that. I'm learning new stuff here and I've replace engines and trans just not done suspension parts. I've already f'ed up the tie rod and replaced it, now the ball joint needs to come out. Once I get it out of the knuckle, how do I get it out of the control arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Definitely get the lower stud popped out of the control arm before removing the strut bolts. Much easier that way than pulling the housing out of the knuckle. Loosen and remove the lower nut, then hammer down on the control arm right by the stud with a big hammer. Give the sides a good smack as well and that will help break it loose from the control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 do you guys try to keep a chisel in the split? also, will this work on a soob; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Great idea! I need to remove the whole ball joint so I'll loosen the bottom stud, then put the castle nut back on then bang the control arm. I might also see if that jack trick works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickascii Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Great news! After a few hours of work, I have replaced the drivers side axle, tie rod end, ball joint, had the wheel bearing pressed out and new one in, and now on my way to get it aligned. Thank you all for your help and tips! The socket tip worked like a charm to get ball joint out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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