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Kris79

Subaru stuck. Burned clutch. Need replacing or can it be adjusted ?

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Hello everyone. I'm sort of new so Subaru's. I had a 1980 when I was a kid to bash around in and took my road test on an 83 turbo. Now I have this 1993 Loyale 4x4 wagon and had a big mishap yesterday and got stuck almost on it's side in a snow/mud filled ditch. I tried getting it out and smelled the clutch burning. We got it out today and when I drove it home the clutch doesn't engage until my foot is almost off the clutch. It also will slip in gear. Do I need a new clutch or can it be adjusted to driveable again ? Any help much appreciated !

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Try adjusting the cable so there is about a millimeter of play. Be sure to undo the hill holder cable first, then re-adjust it after the cluth. You just may be due for a lutch anyway, but try that first.

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Sound advice on the hill holder deal. That one thru me for the better part of an afternoon!  :banghead:

 

John

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Thanks guys, I don't believe this car is equipped with the hill holder option. If it was it's long since died. Does not have dual range 4x4. I will try adjusting the clutch from the fork part in the engine bay to see if I can get it any better. Before getting the car stuck the clutch worked perfectly.

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hill holder is something all 4wd subarus came with unless I am mistaken.Properly adjusted it applies the brakes so you dont roll backwards when you push the clutch in. 

 

 

but this is all speculation on my part because I have never had a functioning hill holder before...

Edited by Uberoo

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The clutch is the clamping force giving traction when released. The cable is the release mechanism. Reducing the free play of the cable will only give you more release..you want more clamp from a fried clutch. Can't see this working

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The clutch is the clamping force giving traction when released. The cable is the release mechanism. Reducing the free play of the cable will only give you more release..you want more clamp from a fried clutch. Can't see this working

 

 

the clamping force is provided but the pressure plate. no the clutch fork. loosening the cable will allow the pressure plate to apply more pressure.. 

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On mine, the clutch wasn't releasing enough to let the car shift easily, so I adjusted for more free play. Didn't know about the hill holder feature (my first Soob. Lol). Doing that, somehow activated the HH, causing me to drag the back left wheel.  :confused:

 

Consulted the manual, learned about the HH, and adjusted the relationship between the two. Now have easy (if sloppy) shifting, and the HH to keep me from rolling at stop lights!  :banana:

 

If your back brakes are functional, the HH might still work. It looks to me like a cable actuated valve that holds pressure in the rear brake line, kind of like a hold valve on a drag racer, or a tow truck. 

 

John

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the clamping force is provided but the pressure plate. no the clutch fork. loosening the cable will allow the pressure plate to apply more pressure.. 

I don't see a clutch cable magically tightening itself up... 

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I don't see a clutch cable magically tightening itself up... 

its funny you mention that, my gl-10 actually used to. it was missing one of the washers and even with the lock nut tightened it would still tighten itself up. until i replaced all the hardware on the cable end.

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OK, maybe I am wrong coz I can't see it, but , I was assuming it had its freeplay, but maybe that freeplay was took up by pplate springs coming back further due to reduced thickness all of a sudden of the friction plate

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On this note does anybody have an image of the manual showing just exactly HOW to adjust the clutch pedal, or can somebody give a brief run down?

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I don't see a clutch cable magically tightening itself up... 

 

They do as the clutch wears.

OK, maybe I am wrong coz I can't see it, but , I was assuming it had its freeplay, but maybe that freeplay was took up by pplate springs coming back further due to reduced thickness all of a sudden of the friction plate

 

Friction disc gets thinner, PP clamps down a bit further which takes up the freeplay in the cable.

 

You definately can loosen the cable a bit to get the last life out of the clutch.......it's probably toasted but slackin off the cable can get you a hair more life to get you home.

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That's for all the advice everyone. The clutch is completely worn off and I don't have the tools or know-how to replace it myself. The car isn't really worth anything but to us. The kits seem reasonable to buy but not sure it's worth paying someone to do it. Might be the end of this car. We have another 1994 Loyale wagon with unknown engine issues. I'm going to put in the replacement gas tank and try and test fire it. If not we will be looking for another 4x4 wagon in the near future.

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You can do a clutch. It's time consuming and will require patience but you can do it! In sure there's several how toos around this site.

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Alternator is dead too now. Going to try and sell for parts for a couple weeks then off to the scrap yard. R.I.P., On the hunt for another now.

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Really !!! Your going to scap it because of a clutch and alternator issue??? Really!!! There has to be someone that can help, unless there is massive rot, please don't take to the junk yard..... Sadness. I see too many older Subaru' s in Vegas yards intact and restorable. I cried when I saw a 88 gl-10 sedan last week, and it was a Flat 4 members car, which made it even worse..

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And this is what meth does to your brain !!!

  Fix your car or sell it as is for $250.

   Do NOT crush!

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And this is what meth does to your brain !!!

Fix your car or sell it as is for $250.

Do NOT crush!

 

 

Thank you !!!!!

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I just got the clutch done in my '89 Ranger at our local community college; no charge for labor, just parts. Would that be an option in your area?

 

I've never done a clutch in a Subaru, but it might not be as bad as you think. Or maybe you could do some bartering. Don't be too quick to crush it. I'm site it has value to someone. 

 

John

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I found a 1993 locally with lower K's and a low asking price. The one I have currently has some serious cancer issues or I'd invest the time and money into it. I can store it at a friends and part it out and or use the parts myself as the drive train is perfect. Still haven't test fired our second one which has a better body and was given to us as a parts car. One way or another we'll have one back on the road soon.

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OK I am going to ask for help and see what happens? 

My 88 dl 2wd wagon w/ 200k plus miles is giving me clutch fits!

A couple years ago I replaced a broken clutch cable, I thought at the time the parts house (Auto Zone or Oreillys/schmucks) had given me the wrong cable as the horseshoe clip to hold cable in bracket did not fit the new cable. I was able to make the cable work for awhile but now when i adjust the cable to where I can get car into reverse and shift, the adjustment does not hold. Lasts maybe an hour of driving and must be adjusted again??

I am determined to keep this car on the road as I feel it is just reaching its prime and I want to do my part to aid OPEC in world domination. My plan is to order a new correct cable- getting one from a dealer is too costly, trying to find a 2wd Subi in an OREGON u-pull it is like looking for UNICORNS OR HONEST POLITICIANS.

Does anybody have advice? Once I replace the cable I am prepared to do the clutch and all hardware if not shifting happily?

Thanks

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