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peacewize

manual diff lock lever

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So I can't seem to find any diagrams for my center diff lock. I was wondering if anyones ever just removed the vacuum system and put in a lever? Foreseeable drawbacks? Thanks

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anyone tried the search function on this topic? 

 

- well, the elimination of the bagel sized vacuum cannister item planted out on the dizzy side of an EA82 AWD single range 5 speed manual box with centre differential lock up option.

 

I thought this may be necessary to fit into a RHD MY/EA81 in order for the canister to clear the heater hoses entering the firewall , was told that the boys in the US have done so with cables and levers, not done any search in here yet myself.

 

I was thinking the EA81 MY air flow control switching betwen fresh or recirculate cabin air might be a first step in just controlling the vacuum switching duties.

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Hmm Idk if that would be strong enough or if that lever would break.I like the cable idea I could put the lever anywhere that way. Originally I was just thinking to cut a hole in the tunnel and mount a lver directly to the diff lock

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easy for you, driving on the wrong side of the car :)

actually, the gadget is on my side, just the cable takes the job to the plunger on the left .

 

I thought same, but how strong is the diaphragm and manifold vacuum ? Surely it aint real strong ?

Edited by jono

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i ran a metal rod under the ebrake/center console/dash or something.  it didn't work perfect and was tight due to bends so it would hang and the rod would bend sometimes, etc, but it worked somewhat.  i put only a matter of minutes into it and just used stuff i had lying around because it wasn't a daily driver or it was temporary until i fixed it - it was 10 years ago so i can't recall but i didn't spend much time on it.  with a little effort it seems like it would be easy to get something more permament working.

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Ya I'm really digging the.cable idea because it would allow for movement without that binding issue and than maybe put a spring on the bracket on the trans to help unlock it. I'm thinking repurposing an e brake lever I just have to find someone to make a cable. By chance do you know which way that lever on the trans moves to lock it in, pull towards the front or push towards the back?

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The vacuum canister pulls/pushes a cable.

 

The electronics are easy.......

 

Why not just fix the Vac system?.......it's identical to the 4wd shifter on S/R ea82s 5spds.......So parts are easy to get.

 

the switch is just a double throw..........Power goes in.....then out to one solenoid or the other........Which ever solenoid gets power opens to vacuum and effects the cable.

 

If you build something custom you will have to make some kind of "detent" for it to hold it in one position or the other as this function is done by the stock systems cable.

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Electrical:

Ign power to the switch

2 wires out of the switch (one for each: lock/unlock) to the 2 solenoids on the left strut tower

solenoids are then earthed.

 

Vacuum:

vacuum signal from the intake manifold

T's to each solenoid

one line from each solenoied to each side of the vacuum canister

 

If it's not working, check the cable actually moves. I've seen other stories on here about them rusting up.

 

I've thought about replacing the vacuum parts with a wiper motor to push/pull the cable. Much like the high/low lever, you'd need to be constantly pushing on the lever to get it locked in if the dog teeth are not perfectly lined up.

Leaving the system "automatic" allows this to happen by itself.

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In an effort to simplify the interior of my cab (even though 3 shifters does have a cool factor to it) since the Subaru 4wd shifter is only used to operate the dual range lever (my 4wd clutch is welded up).  I put a little bit of research in to how to do this.  The operation would be almost the same for a single range trans, or an awd diff lock.

The short answer it, power lock actuator.  There are many different shapes and sizes, the ones that I have used in the past are old Cadillac ones.  The one that I plan on using is the dakota digital one from Summit racing, it has a 35lb pull/push actuation strength and a steel body.  Price might be a little spendy for some people at 70ish dollars.

A cheaper route might be to use a spring scale, measure how much force is required to move your shift lever, then look around online for a OEM actuator that provides that much push/pull then go to the wrecking yard and grab one.  Let us know if you do go this route, and always, pics pics pics.

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something as positive as a door lock central locking solenoid, they are three wire for thunk open, thunk shut operation. I must have one somewhere...or a pair of starter motor solenoids, and an 87,87a relay could be used to operate the vacuum solenoids as they are an either/or operation - connect 87 to one solenoid to keep vacuum going one way, 87a to switch it the other way. Just unsure if I have seen one or two vacuum lines on my clanger vacuum can ??

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Here's a scan of the 87 FSM full time 4wd page

 

Nevermind...keep getting "Error 403" when uploading the file. Grrrr!

Edited by czny

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Wow big thanks to everyone! I don't know why I was making such a mountain out of this. My car came factory with a push button 4wd the system from what I can tell so far is exactly the same. All my plugs and brackets and lines fit exactly in to the old components locations. So if memory serves me when I swapped the dual range in all I did was pull the vacuum stuff and unplug the switch. I should in theory be able to locate the wiring for the old button and reroute it to my switch and it should work!

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