kevinrse Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 (edited) I just finished putting my new timing belt on. Checked cam & crank sprocket position markings carefully per Haynes manual, pulled tensioner pin, then checked marks again and counted teeth between sprockets just to make sure all was right. The Haynes manual advises turning the crank clockwise at least 2 full revolutions by hand, prior to starting engine, to make sure all is well. I encountered a springy resistance at a little less than half a turn of the crankshaft. (Requires increasing force with rotation, I gave it up to maybe 40-60 foot-pounds before stopping for fear I'd break something). I don't recall feeling this resistance when I was turning the crank with the old belt installed. Did I do something wrong? Should I be worried? Note that I turned cam sprockets back and forth some while belt was removed---removed & replaced them all to replace cam seals. But as I said above, I'm certain the new timing belt is positioned correctly relative to all sprockets. Edited May 17, 2014 by kevinrse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 No you should not be hitting anything. Are you sure the Crank back tooth was properly aligned? It's not the arrow on the front of the gear but the tick mark on the rear tooth. Hopefully you did not bend any valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 As each piston reaches TDC, you'll feel resistance as you turn the crankshaft. And as the piston passes TDC, the resistance disappears and the crank turns suddenly on its own. Take all spark plugs out, and the crankshaft should turn freely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinrse Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 @ lmdew, yes, it's lined up with mark on rear tooth: (You can see the arrow on the face of the gear too, located 90 degrees clockwise relative to rear tooth mark). Did I do this right? @Forester2002s, I thought this resistance was from the pistons passing TDC.... but the resistance just seems too high. I haven't tried turning it "past" that resistance---because I was afraid I'd done something wrong. The resistance has only increased for as far as I've dared turn the crank. I also have a "feel" for the spring resistance when turning to TDC position, because I had to wrestle the left-side (drivers side) cam sprockets into aligned position for putting the belt back on. This resistance just feels significantly stronger than the amount of muscle needed to rotate cam sprockets individually---even after accounting for added resistance of turning multiple sprockets at once with the belt reinstalled. I guess I'm still stuck here... anyone with advice on what to do next? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darsdoug Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 This might help.2.5Timing.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 It shouldn't take that much force to rotate the motor at this point. If it were me I'd put the crank back to its timing mark, quadruple check every mark and go from there. The dohc motors can be a pain when it comes to timing belts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinrse Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 I forgot to mention to @forester2002s that my plugs are out.... so it should turn freely, afaik. @darsdoug, thanks---this gave me some confidence that I got the alignment marks right, but doesn't mention turning crankshaft through 2 revolutions. I am worried though since it did turn freely before. The PDF also mentions that a valve interference/collision might result from the left side cam sprockets spinning around quickly when old timing belt released, from compressed springs releasing. This did happen, and startle me, when I took the old belt off---the Haynes manual didn't mention it and I didn't know to expect it. Could this have bent a valve? If so could that have resulted in the resistance I'm feeling now? @86BRATMAN, not sure if I understand you right---you're saying it shouldn't take that much force to rotate---but that I should proceed anyways after verifying the marks are aligned right? I'm kinda worried about this resistance, so reluctant to proceed without some more assurance that it is OK (or that it could be the result of somehow damaging things, and what to do in that event)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 If the plugs are out it should spin freely. There is no compression so you are just turning against the spring pressure of the valves which is not much. Is the motor out of the car? A leak down check would confirm a bent valve but it's very hard to do if the engine is in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Right, do not try any more to rotate it. I had an incident when timing one of these, when going to rotate the engine after timing it, that the tensioner hadn't fully extended and it allowed the crank to turn several degrees without the driver's side intake came turning at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 It is possible the valves are colliding if the cams are out of phase to eachother. be sure to use the proper marks. a cam can only be rotated during belt assembly if the other cam is not spring with any valves open. When the camps line up in phase, th one cam will have open valves. It is ok to rotate the cam backwards to line it up. Avoid rotating the crank backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Is it a manual trans? Is it in gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinrse Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 @Fairtax4me, ding ding ding, we have a winner. I had the car in gear. Feel a bit dumb now, but problem solved.... thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 At least it was something completely simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I can usually tell when the car starts moving. Happens all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avanmanandfriends Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 so i am experiencing the original stated problem. Engine is on a stand out of the vehicle. I have a 2001 Subaru 2.5 SOHC engine. The engine and heads are recently rebuilt. so with the timing belt installed, and timing mark all in proper location, and spark plugs removed, I can only get a little less than a 1/4 turn before resistance is meet and main crank will not rotate any further, or at least not without me being scared of bending valves or breaking something else. Unfortunately I can't blame the car being in gear as the problem? all three rotate freely individually. thanks for the help. ps. hoping this bad boy with take me around the globe any help will go along ways!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Are you using the dash marks or the arrows to time the engine? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Any binding will usually be a solid stop. You may just be feeling the resistance of compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Any binding will usually be a solid stop. You may just be feeling the resistance of compression. good point - pull the plugs and try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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