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Brat Ignition Lock Cylinder Stuck

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The time has finally come for the Ignition Lock to get stuck in my Brat.

It was already in a state where the key could be removed in any position and while driving around.

Currently it is stuck in the Run position, and can start the car, but will not turn back to shut the car off.

 

Is it possible to remove this lock cylinder?

 

I have a parts GL Brat with a good lock cylinder in it to swap out if so.

1985 Brat Gl (tilt column steering)

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As long as both columns are the same as in tilting you are good as gold.

 

 

If they aren't both tilt you might be able to dismantle and pull the tumbler out and switch them.

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But how do I go about taking the cylinder out? On other cars I have removed a keeper screw and had to turn the key a certain way and then pull. But here there is nothing similar to that.
I guess another way is just to swap columns? But that seems like a pain.

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Looking head on at you're ignition switch.

Remove the cover from the barrel. The piece with on/off/acc. stamped on it. easy to do, it's crimped on.

At the 5 o'clock position, on the underside of the barrel should be a retaining pin or tiny screw. The hole may be covered up with a bit of solder but is easy to remove with a bit of digging.

Once that is removed (pin/screw) you should be able to insert your key and slide it out. There may be a square plastic piece on the bottom of the barrel that you will need to slide out. pull it towards you. may also have a half circle plastic retaining ring as well. I'm just going from memory as it's been a few years since I've done this.

Once you get the thing open it really becomes self explanatory. Good Luck!

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Sweet, I wasn't sure if that barrel cover came off or if it was a good idea to remove.
Ill go mess with it now haha.

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It is a pin that holds the cylinder in, but it wont go in when I push on it.

Does the cylinder have to be turned from the lock position for that pin to be able to retract?

Or is it just being stubborn? The pin is flush with the cylinder, making it unable to be pulled out instead of pushing in.

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I pulled one apart earlier this summer, I don't remember exactly how it fell apart now.

 

Seems like it just came apart when the screw was out.

 

Must be just a pita for you.

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Get a good bit of triflow in that lock first and wiggle that key around, it might just come out easier than you think.  Compressed air might help free some stuff up too. Its easier to replace the whole lock assembly (the column lock and all) than get the cylinder out IMHO. Once you get the whole assembly out you might be able to fix it on the bench too. A good lock shop might be able to help with parts too.

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I think what looks like the pin being flush is just a bit if solder or something holding the pin in. Try digging at it with something pointy. Once that is removed it should fall right out with a bit of wiggling. That's the way it was on my '85 Brat but I think it was a little screw, not a pin. Again it's been a few years.

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Our 1982 GL wagon  163k on her....starts with a paper clip.  Or any key you might like to insert into her.  She will take any tool to get her revving.  She loves it.

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I have a customer with a 1986 Subaru Brat 4WD w/tilt steering. I sold him an ignition lock and switch assembly, part number 783121210. The customer has received the part and has a tech trying to install it. I am being told that there are two missing wires on the new assembly and he believes that their purpose is for the chime. I can't seem to find any other applicable part for this model so I'm not sure if there is an issue with the part itself or possibly improper installation although his tech seems to be pretty familiar with the Brat. The part came as a very fresh and new assembly, didn't appear to have ever been handled or installed before. The customer is on the opposite coast of us so unfortunately it's not a situation where I can see it all layed out for myself. Have any of you experienced anything like this while installing new parts?

 

If it helps, the tech said that the wires were blue and yellow.

Edited by SubaruPartsGirl

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if it's what I'm thinking of, they should be attached to a black plastic piece with a U shaped piece of copper in it. There is a cut out on the bottom of the barrel that it slides into

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Those wouldn't come with the new assembly. Hope they still have the old ones, If not it won't affect anything. I never hooked mine ('85 Brat) back up as I find door chimes annoying.

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Thank you for your help! I'm thinking that the part may be incorrect somehow because he tech says that there is a small difference between the two parts that does not allow him to transfer these wires over.

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Blue/yellow wired don't actually plug into the ignition except for the plastic bit sliding on the barrel cut out I mentioned. The other end hooks into a male/female connection under the dash, a little bigger around than a pencil. Wrong part is entirely possible as I've never heard of anyone coming across a NOS switch. his best bet is going to be a used one. There is an '83 wagon being parted out on this board that would work if the wagon has tilt collum.

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783121070 comes up eventually as a no tilt complete assembly which is not the one what I need because I have the tilt. I got burglarized and the thief mucked up my ignition, and so, I am searching for the complete assembly, which the dealer says can be ordered with footnote; no tilt, handwritten. Dead-end there.

UPDATE: Changing the lock cylinder sounds the best option now. Anyone have a cylinder number? I found 783131010 at SubaruParts.com and I'd really like to verify that number.

UPDATE: Glad I checked again, that latter number, 783131010, shows the switch, not the lock cylinder!

Thanks and have a great day all!

Edited by lrgvanman

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I have the same problem I think (84 GL). Cylinder is stuck in the run position and can't be turned either way. The key initially was stuck, but I eventually just yanked it out after I tried every way to move it. I partially took apart the lock cylinder to see how it works. Does anyone have any tips for how I could just disable the lock entirely so I could just turn it with any old key? I don't really care that much about the security (well, currently the security is none because you can bump start it anytime you want).

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I wanted to say thanks for this thread.  I just had to go thru transferring lock cylinders.  One was secured with the screw the other had the solder (JB weld?).

 

I found that it was pretty easy to disassemble. Disconnect your Battery!  Then after removing the plastic housing, remove the outer crimped ring with your ignition setting stamped on it.  (lock, ac, start, ect...)  I used a flathead screwdriver and pried at the seam a little bit.  Starting near front side then finishing on the rear side after I got a little bit of it loose.  Next if you have a lock screw holding the cylinder in place remove that or scrap away all the solder gunk holding the cylinder in place.  At this point the lock cylinder can slide out and be swapped.

 

So here is where I found the interesting things out.  For those who might not have the swap options.  The housing with the wires soldered to it on the left side is what you ignition lock cylindr is turning.  You can manually turn this with a screwdriver and achieve all ignition settings.  You might have to be clever in how you mount and turn this part but there you go.  That is how to bypass the Lock mechanism and start the car.  IMPORTANT:  Your Steering Wheel can still LOCK UP.  If you look in between the Lock Cylinder and the other half that actually turns the settings you will see the steering wheel lock mechanism that engages when you turn the wheel so many degrees and the lock cylinder isn't there to let it stay unlocked  I saw a video where someone took a drill gun and just bored this part out.

For those wanting to remove your stuck key and try to get it all working again.  You will see a gap in the lock cylinder exposing the tumblers.  Press the tumblers down as you wiggle the key and pray for some luck.  Once your key is unstuck spray it all liberally with graphite dust,  keep working it until you can operate it somewhat normally and reassemble it all.  GL.

 

The link for the x6 short looked like my cylinder.  I also got an error trying to purchase one.  I pulled the other cylinder from my donor car.  Originally the soldering had me thinking that was a hopeless cause.  Since I wasn't worried about breaking any of the housing I wasn't very gentle scraping away the solder.  It took some doing but I finally managed to pry/chip it off and remove the cylinder.  I'm not sure if it was that glued up from the factory or maybe it already had been replaced before.  Whatever the case persistence paid off.

Don't blame me if it doesn't work out.  I'm a newbie at this stuff but from my short experience that is how the system seems to work.

 

Special thanks to Jonas for all your input.  I would have been lost without you.

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