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Looking for pics and/or diagrams showing the components, layout and, ideally, location on vehicle, of the components connected to the charcoal/carbon canister.

Where the drain line goes, if there's a drain valve where it is, where the ultimate end allowing access to the atmosphere is (hose end or filter box or valve nipple, etc.)

 

thanx guys

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opposed forces?

 

do you know what other vehicles might be the same or if it has to be exact for your purposes?

 

might 2010+ legacy's be similar enough?

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opposed forces?

 

do you know what other vehicles might be the same or if it has to be exact for your purposes?

 

might 2010+ legacy's be similar enough?

I just don't know. The PZEV could make it different/unique. I did get to converse a little with a tech about the issue of 'spiders' or something causing pressure to buildup in the canister - preventing easy refueling. He had seen 2 Foresters with re-fueling problems and he said one was definitely spider-'stuff- he had to blow out. Evidently some cars have a valve on the Drain-side, some have a little box with a paper filter? maybe both? , I will probably be able to find most of the components if I can get the car into my garage - just don't want to miss anything.

 

I've even considered just locating the drain line from thew canister and disconnecting it from any Drain valve, and building a screen-wire cylinder to attach the end, then just poke/secure that up outta the way. let the spiders and the ECU have a dead drain valve and some hoses/filters for their amusement.

 

The problem , I THINK (it's just a theory) is, the dealership is 17 miles away and if the ECU runs a Purge before the car gets there, the pressure would be relived in the canister, That's why it never fails for the service writers over there. This last time, I took video immediately after we picked up the car of my BIL unable to fill the tank without it continually shutting off. Dropped the car back at the dealership - they say they need the Regional guy. probably want to make sure mother Sooby will pay them for 'exploratory surgery'.

 

But, I can GUARANTEE you, this will happen again if there is ANY opening into which these spiders can crawl. The only way to fix this is, a perforated surface like a cylinder of screen-material on the end of w'ever hose or nipple or cylindrical boss is the final atmospheric opening. Once, they told my 85 year-old MIL that she needed to spray bug spray under her car regularly! that is BS.

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wow.

 

i've disliked the bugs nests in my stock/new automotive hose in my garage.  but on the vehicle, AH!

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Bug spray?

 

I've seen this "fixed" before on several vehicles by finding the canister vent hose and sticking one of these trim clips in the end of it: http://www.itw-fastex.com/catalog/index.php/dw/op/a/7/c/17/p/14?m=no

 

Just need the right size to grab inside the hose so it wont fall out, without being so large to obstruct it. Sounds cheesy, but it does work. If one doesn't work well enough, put a large Y or T on the end of the hose and use two.

 

The vent hose is usually pretty obvious right by the canister. The end of the hose usually sticks into a hole in the frame. Hopefully a 2010 won't have much rust back there yet and you can remove the canister without much trouble to find any hoses that may be above it.

 

For a real diagram, a factory service manual will be the only source. There are links floating around here to a website that has loads of FSMs. Not sure if they have up to 2010, I haven't looked there recently.

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well, I got under my MIL's Forry. There was ZERO evidence of insects on anything. i WISH there WERE spiders involved. I would have had a shot at fixing the car.

 

I found one small tube from a valve of some type. It was just dangling in fee air. I built a cylinder of aluminum screening and attached is anyway,

 

Then, I found a large white plastic 'vent'. It's shape actually looks like it would make an ideal home for a bug. It was clean though. I managed to squeeze my hands up there, remove it, and build a screen 'dome' over it. It will never have bugs I can assure you.

 

So, the car still only accepts fuel at a very low velocity. Lower than the lowest position on the 'hands free' clip. My MIL has arthritis and cannot trickle fuel in. She shouldn't have to.

 

So, hoping my BIL can get SOA to get with the dealer and fix this properly. Might involve dropping the tank. This problem has always been present - even going back to when the warranty was in effect. But I'm sure the dealership wants to make certain they get paid.

 

*sigh*

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            OK, my MIL's Forry is back. SOA had the dealership change the vent
valve and the carbon canister. The paperwork says the canister weighed
3X normal. She of course denies ever over-filling it.



Either one of 2 other people helping her with her car overfilled it and
some failure prevented it from being purged/drained, or, multiple very
short trips allow more buildup than purge opportunities?



Dunno why this was so difficult for them to troubleshoot in past visits to the dealer.
      

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