full parts list for big lift

[DLovin93]

hey guys, I've just bought a 93 DL 4WD D/R and I'm looking to lift it. now i know there is probably 1000 topics on this but they are all over the place and you only get half the story in each one! what I want to do is 3" suspension lift with a 2 or 3" body lift. I have done the homework on strut spacing and any more than 2", bigger wheels blah blah blah. But i would like is a list of all parts and potentially drawings if you have any. To start i would like to know if I can use 3x2x1/2 (I'm not used to using imperial measurements so if i make a mistake or 2 just bare with me) RHS or if ill need to make a more sturdy unit, dropping the cross members what is a the best rule of thumb for working out how much to drop. As for body lift should the blocks be solid is the 1/2 RHS good for that. Nuts and bolts, what are the best grade for all this, general purpose, high tensile, building.

These are all things i just cannot find answers to on any post. If you can think of anything else i have forgotten please feel free to add it, I am looking to do this right and not too dodgy or bodged together.

if that made no sense just let me know and I'll try to get it right for you that time.

 

cheers guys!

[Prwa101]

For lifts on your car most people run 1" more on the suspention than the body. but they is entierly dependent on if you want the axels at the stock geomerty or if you want them a little more at an angle. Also 1/2" tube is huge! I use 1/4" on all my lift kits and there near bullit proof, although i sugest making them solid blocks, no small sections all over the place.

 

The rear suspention is dirrfent than the front, since the CV joints down that to make hard turns and mostly just go up and down, they can handle up to 3"ish without droping anything. most people go 2" over what ever they drop the rear suspention.

 

grade 8+ are most common and more than strong enough for this. make sure you use lock wachers with your nuts, its that little exstrea that might save you down the road.

 

that being said, i have 2" suspention lift kits for 180$ shipped in the US. does put your axels at a harder angle than stock. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148582-anderson-design-fabrication/

 

PRWA

[subarubrat]

On my site, www.subarubrat.com you can go to my brat mods and there is a series of pictures showing the construction of a 12 in lift, 10 frame and 2 suspension.

[subarubrat]

Testing.  

[wagonist]

The 2 types of lift kit I've seen in Oz either using steel RHS (SHS) or solid aluminium

2" lift blocks usually use 2" x 2" blocks, so using 3" x 2" RHS will be fine.

4mm thick should be fine, but remember you will need to put crusher tubes in the bolt holes so you don't squash the blocks.

You may or may not want to weld in the ends for added stiffness.

 

The hardest blocks to do are those on the front of the rear suspension & the tie rod end mounts.

 

There will be little in the way of drawings. The kits don't need to be that complicated and nearly all the blocks are straight. That's why you can't find anything.

Get under the car, and just measure the length of the stuff that's sitting on the body. eg engine crossmember, rear diff moustache bar, and just get materials to suit that length.

 

And bugger these guys, just post in metric. the rest of the world does...

[snowiscool71]

Im trying to lift my 05 and I haven't seen any relevant posts on here. Im doing the front struts soon and Id like to throw in a 1" strut spacer. Anyone done this before. Is that all there is to it? Will my alignment be maxed out? 

[Prwa101]

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/148582-anderson-design-fabrication/

 

Yeah just a 1" spacer. And no it will need an alignment when your done but it shouldn't max it out.

 

I have 1.4" king spring and 1" spacer on my 00 forester

 

What model 08 do you have?