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84 4wd Touring wagon

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Hi to all just bought this 1984 4WD Touring wagon,have kinda of liked them as learnt to drive in one,my father had a plain wagon as company car,when he worked at Motor Holdings Ltd in New Zealand.This car has

a little rust in sills and near rear mud flap,rear drip rail. Engine ,No.2 conrod to crankshaft has seized ,was driven by someone till it stopped.On the look for some parts,or engine. Saved from the scrap heap as most have rusted away here,there are  some living south in the country.Iam going to fix

 up some of bodywork,haven't decided how far as yet.The rear sill near wheel  and factory join I take

it that the swage is  meant to run all the way through.Here  are some pictures ,have looked at this site recently thought id share.Regards Rowen

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Sweet! I saw this on TradeMe and was really hoping someone would pick it up, there's precious few EA81s on the road here anymore, let alone touring wagons (probably my favourite). One of my neighbours used to have a brown Touring Wagon just like this one.

 

As far as the engine goes, any Brumby engine will bolt in but you probably know more than me anyway. There's a wrecker in Cromwell, Central Otago who has a yard full of old Subarus, he's got a couple of EA81 RXs, imports from Japan.

 

A sweet build would be to put a full-time 4wd 5-speed from an EA82 RX or RXII in it.

 

This guy over on AUSUBARU has done a full restoration on quite a rusty one. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?s=0c4e29b0272dd0b8c86ad7af75a2a308&t=23019

 

I'd love to see this thing restored and back on the road rocking the black plates!

 

As far as rust goes, could be worse:

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I took that picture up Highcliff Rd, on the peninsula.

 

Luke.

Edited by KiwiGL
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That blue 4wd looks ravaged Luke,rust not being kind  to some, the brumby ute helpful for some bits,thank good ness or there would  be even less.

The Cromwell wrecker looks the business, for old parts i wish I lived down that way.

Loved see the pictures on

that site AUSUBARU but couldn't  bring them  up, found hard to get into that site,not  to sure why.

The Touring wagon extra stripes

and logos  differ in  suby car brochure was this Aus and NZ adaptation as don't really know.Do you drive Turbo wagon as in picture

cheers

Rowen.

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Congrats on the purchase.  She's a beauty.  Please keep us updated on what you do to the wagon and where she takes you! Best wishes, Aaron

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The turbo wagon is dead unfortunately. Terminal rust in the firewall and windscreen pillars/corners, and the paint had gone through on the roof and bonnet and was starting to rust badly. Also had a lot of rusty stone chips down the doors. Engine needed a complete rebuild too. I just don't have the money to restore it, not until I graduate anyway.

I've currently got a Forester. http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=5568
Not as much fun as the L though, I loved that turbo and it actually used less petrol than the Foz. That 2.5 has a serious drinking problem.

I agree, keep us updated on the wagon! If it was a dual-range with the plaid interior it would be perfect, but it's still nice. The last time I saw a touring wagon on the road was about this time last year...
130_Subaru-BRAT-1978_Subaru-BRAT-640x426

* I know this is a gen-1 BRAT but I was using the seats as an example...

Edited by KiwiGL
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Hi all

Started last year,stripping it down,begin rust repairs on drivers side and work

my way round to other side,hoped for less rust on left hand side,turned out

no different,did buy a mig welder from repco,for the diy market works ok, little bit erratic,can weld alright on thicker steel,iam using argon gas mix,prefer

bigger spooled machines.less griding the weld off,sort off.Put some patches in

bottom window corners,and right hand 1/4 panel,pictures showing some of it,i

forgot to take pictures of the process,dont have a good series of pictures.

front A piller and along

drip rail, bad surface rust decided to use the gas welder and brass rods,laying weld over rusty areas,hopefully the heat will kill the rust.As to awkward and to much work cutting out bits,patched some easier bits near the drip rail area,for some areas.Has had a new roof skin in its life,accident I guess, spot welding

drilled out was never mig plugged probably,or seamed seal that well,not

much paint either some areas.

Exposed to the elements,rust resulting.No more welding to be done,three

doors to be finished off, outside only ,just the dents over them.and a few dents repairs ,need re fixing,sand blocking, more filler in low spots as not quite

right.

Lechler expoxy primer is

used.Should of held off buying paint,before doing some rust work and extent of

it.Probaly have chosen cheaper option of primer and paint white paint,instead

of metallic colour. Having a break for now,

start soon,when the light is bit better,and yes iam getting sick off it,felt

like giving up sometimes.Her it is sitting in garage.Regards Rowen.

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drip rail cut off,and re weld back,after brass welding in rust

area on A pillar,patch miged in,drip rail not in picture brass welding

in old spot welding as surface rust.

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Sweet work, getting closer by the look of it! Would be a waste to give up now. Pity I'm down south, seeing this in the flesh would be sick

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Another great restoration on the USMB! Like KiwiGL said, don't give up. It is indeed coming out very nice! I, along with a lot of others on here would be keen to see her finally done.

 

I know the feeling of having a tore apart rust project in the garage. Just can't give up.

 

Cheers,

-Tom :)

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Glad I put the pics up, hopefully been here will keep the work progressing.

Rocker panel,sills was patched before did intend, to cut out there patches

,and redo.In the end all I did was go round there welding joins,

missed spots or just to tidy up the welding a bit more.As looked sound the patch

and didn,t wanted to make more work.And more likely will rust some where else,

as hard to know whats on the other side of the metal.Some bare metal near

patches on rear arches,little pieces cut out you could look at inner arches

rust a bit pitted.Rust proofing wax is all this car the odd place bare

slight rusting. surface rust brazing rods above the patch,sanding disc,

flattened weld down leaving a skim of brazing over rusty area.Skim

body filler over it,body filler does not stick to brass as well as it does

metal,as don't what make to big a job of it,you can spend hours doing big

rust work.If you come across Soudal body filler buy it,there is several

different types extra fine and couple other types,as don't remember which type

I used 17 years ago.Is easy sanding no pin holes and very quick to use,

sculptures well,as the other hard filler some does not sand or feather

well on edges ,feel smooth on edges on spot applications, ie layers of filler.

Wish they sell Soudal here.

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rust both sides bottom of windscreen.cut back a bit out

then tack in,then cut out next bit .To serve as a guide ,The Steel is sort of a

Z shape with curve following windscreen shape.If you like cut a cardboard

template as guide to help.As didn"t want to cut all rust out and have a big hole

and guessing where the panelline is .These are the only photos I took

as forgot while was working.

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welding in the corners brazed as mig would leave not quite a flatter

weld,or use a die grinder.sometimes would overlap patches like a patch

bicycle tube wih patch on top.Pefer not to do this would rather butt weld,

but the mig welder 150 watts I have cheap DIY one seamed to like welding with

metal underneath better.Some of the butt welding idid was chasing holes

a lot,grind welding then welding then grind.testing my patience, usually not

that slow.welding in very shorts burst,erratic. As this is the first time using small mig welders,as mostly used the bigger mig welders.

picture in primer

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left hand bottom corner of front windscreen.

was done months ago.not working car at moment,hence being here.

regards Rowen,and kind comments.as always something interesting at USMB.

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More work to do strip paint off doors ,dents slight ripples,skim coat of filler to smooth it out

course paper on paint after paint stripper p-40 then 80 240.the grey primer the recent work.

now on to the main body of care few areas need refixing low spots and areas.that don't look right.

pictures loaded.

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