Jump to content
utcoyotehunter

I'd like to try to make a side by side buggy.

Recommended Posts

As far as pictures I will post some when I have more time to learn how.

 

As far as my intent on what to build it looks as though it will be a 4 seater. I haven't been able to find any plans I have even contacted rhino buggies. They said that they did not buy that side of the business. I assume that plans would be a huge benefit when locating the drive train and suspension.  If I cant get any plans or dimensions my intent is to remove the body from the fire wall back maybe keep the floor and build the body out of tube. I also intend on lifting it 2+". I will keep looking for the plans and with any luck sweet 82  will show and I can lean on him a little. It seems that all of the old pictures on the form are lost.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i wouldent look for a set of plans just look at as many buggies as you can and find one you like and copy it the best you can

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bolt bars across the strut towers to tie them together.

 

Do the same with the rear towers and also add a few diagonal bars down to the floor (seat belt bolts?)

 

Now the geometry is fixed......no matter how much of the body you start to take away (leaving just floor and firewall/front unibody)

 

Peel off as much of the subaru body as you like........then add your tube over for roll cage and reinforcement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I really say that if you still think you need plans, you should probably not tackle this. Just a waste of money and time. Just my .02 cents.

cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you gonna go to Utah Scott? because telling someone how to weld over the internet is like punching a monkey in the face. It just doesna work.lol

cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

..............t is like punching a monkey in the face. It just doesna work.lol

 

It works........just not how you'd thought it would or want it to.

 

Still an applicable metaphor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gloyale,

 Thanks for the pointers on how to keep the suspension locations.

 

Ferp420,  I agree about copying what someone else has done.  The problem I'm having is finding the pictures of buggies to copy.

 

Scott,

I appreciate your willingness to help and will more than likely ask for as much advice as possible.

 

Monstaru,

 All I can say is wish me the best of luck. Give me as many pointers as you can think of. and I hope to surprise you.

 

 Teams go further than individuals.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First brace up the strut towers and the floor between the wheel wells.Then remove hood,doors,hatch,windows,fenders,bumpers,etc.Cut off subaru  above floor,at the top of the firewall,and forward of the front strut towers and rearward of the fuel tank. then build something like this.Relocate the radiator to the back of the car for better approach angle.If you keep the firewall and vin number it can still be registered as a subaru-lights,fenders,and mirrors required...

post-14543-0-59919000-1420122475_thumb.jpg

Edited by Uberoo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I spent some time on a paint program last night with a few first drafts. I tryed to post it with no success.

I got in the back seat and found that the back seat needs to be moved back about 4". Since it will be used and stored outside I'm thinking of using after market bucket seats.

I also am planing to use 1.5 x 3" x.120 rectainglur tubing as the base frame and 1.5x.120 round tube on the body. Any inputs please.

I will try to post a picture soon OK I will ask my bride to post them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rectangular tube?no.You just need 1.75x.120 for the main vertical hoops, and 1.5x.120 for all the triangulation.The tubes get mounted to the sheet metal with a 6x6.120 steel plate that is contoured to fit the sheet metal where ever a tube ends at the sheet metal.Also look up rollcage design and construction techniques then post back if you have any questions on what you just read.Rollcages are kinda of an all or nothing item.A poorly welded or poorly designed rollcage is actually worse than no cage in any crash involving more than flopping the vehicle on its side/roof at 2 mph.

Edited by Uberoo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad I found this post. I am looking for a winter project. I am new to this form and signed up to find just this type of info. I bought a 83 GL wagon a couple years ago to use engine on a hovercraft I was building. I found a lighter ea71 and used it instead. The car ran good but is a rust bucket with 120K. It has a 4 speed hi/lo trans. I currently have a Polaris 800 Crew that does a great job but does not turn very tight and can not be made street legal. Looks like a great project and I see a lot of expertise in the suggestions on this sight. Looks like it is time to clean out a bay in shop and get started. I have been looking at several home builds on line that came out looking great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Uberoo,

 Thanks for the input. I was designing the cage in horizontal levels not hoops from front to back.

 

It still seams that it would be weight well spent to have a beefier base frame like the rectangular tubing across the  outer edge of the unibody instead of the 6x6 plate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the box tubing will crush, severely compromising the structural integrity of the entire assembly.The contoured plate on the other hand will help spread the loads to the unibody. If box tubing was a good idea it would be used in everything requiring a rollcage.Adding weight for the sake of adding weight is not a good thing because then the cage has to be stronger to deal with that extra weight,the stronger cage weighs more...Think of it this way you could build a very strong and very heavy steel buggy that weighs 3000lbs but will only support 5000lbs(just throwing numbers out). that cage is 1.6x stronger than it needs to be.On the other hand through proper design you could build a buggy that would support the same 5000lb load while only weighing 2000 lbs, which would make it 2.5x stronger.When things start going south in a hurry the forces on each cage would ramp up quickly-which one would fail first?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 2 cents if I was going to build another 1 I would use 2x2 .120 square wall and flip the gutted donor car over and copy the unibody rails but carry to the rear end keeping the cross member and tranny mounts same locatio then build a 1.5 x .120 wall dom cage

Edited by apintonut

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have seen that buggy he did not build it has no info on it at all.

 

Rhino plans???? I have no reference on this more info? Link? Pic?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

jbain8. & BioHazard2222 claim to have a set in that thread

I wish I know these existed when I started my build I've been building mine the hard way

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Apintonut,

 I don't know where you find all of this information but I'm sure glad that you do. I looked at jbain8 and biohazard2222's profiles they haven't been on for 4 and 5 years. I will still send them a email but it is another long shot.

 Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×