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No Start Issues for 1990 Loyale ~ Resolved ! ~ Added starter relay

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So I have had a recurring problem with my 1990 loyale not wanting to start. It was intermittent but got worse as time went on.

 

Symptom:  When car was hot or from a cold start, when I turned the key I would hear a clicking sound coming from the engine compartment. I would turn the key over and over again until it would finally turn over (sometimes it would take 50 times!). Car would run fine after starting. 

 

Attempts to Fix:   :horse:

  • Replaced coolant temperature sensor: A lot of posts on these causing hot starting issues. Did not fix the problem. 
     
  •  Replaced starter: nope.
     
  • Cleaned all battery connections and connections to starter: didn't fix problem
     
  • Changed out battery and replaced with new one: still had same issues
     

Actual Fix: After reading up on the USMB forums and on other toyota forums I discovered that the early Subarus do not  have starter relays. As the wiring gets older and more worn out, the power going to the starter diminishes.  The fix is to put a relay in between the starter and the ignition. Some people recommend buying a cheap headlight relay and wiring it in yourself. You can look up starter relay or ignition relay yourself to find instructions. Not being a mechanic myself, I chose this kit: 

Bosch WR1 Starter Relay Kit  http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-WR1-Starter-Relay/dp/B001COAX78 

The kit comes with a relay, all the wires, and easy to follow instructions including a wiring diagram. It took me 20 minutes to wire up and made the whole process a breeze. 

 

Mystery Solved!  Starts up without hesitation. For $25.00 this was a cheap and painless fix (once I figured out the actual problem) Hope this helps some of my fellow vintage sub owners. Peace!   :lol:

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Excellent write up of a problem and then a fix with a parts link. I applaud you sir! Great job, thanks!

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Ah, this won't fix it if nothing gets to that wire. That wire connects to the coil of the relay you add . But it should be easier to find the open connection than the high resistance and / or intermittent connection that typically causes the click / no crank.

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fixed the problem. i put a used ign. switch and ran a new wire to the solinoid,now it works fine. the reason they had problems was the lights would stay on so they bypassed the last fusable link and ran two wires inside to a cheap switch,that's all gone now it starts with the ignition switch i just need the fusable link i think it was the black one.

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