heartless Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 holy cats! I've never seen one that badly rusted up, either! it is usually just a small area - like a ring around the shaft - that has rusted. Congrats on persevering and getting that pulley off of there! I dont have as many belts as lmdew, but have done a few... the timing cover... umm, yeah...not good! what does the other side look like? is it melted as well? even a little? would be very odd for one side to be that badly melted and the other side to not show any signs of melting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 The driver side plastic looks pristine. No issu there at all. The engine runs fine . The car had been wrecked in the past . I found that out when replaced the core support and head light, fender and hood. Nephew (the previous owner) had hit a deer. Then I got the car. Well when I changed out the core support we found putty work on the core support we were replacing. The air bag also seems to be disconnected, Everything is there but where the yellow wire conduit comes up to the front,, something is missing there. so last night I smoothed up the interior of the crank sprocket with some 220 paper,, today ill tackle the crank snout and then proceed to take out the oil pump . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Does anyone else think that key way is damaged? That does noes not look good. Is the new key snug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 the key ways damaged a little,, however.. all the expert guys here said its not that big of a deal. The biggest thing is to yes get them lined up correctly with the key way,, and then Torqe the crank bolt down very well. Im going to Torque mine to 125 ft lbs. and use some Blue thread locker. Update,, I got the Oil pump off and sure enough,, TWO of those Phillips head machine screws were backing out ... I cleaned it up and put thread locker on the screws and put it back on with a new mating gasket and O-ring and crank Seal (Felpro gasket Kit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Sounds good. What do you mean when you say new mating gasket, is that for the oil pump? The oil pump doesn't use a gasket, it uses anaerobic sealant or rtv such as permatex ultra grey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 That cover sure is trashed! I'd agree it was overheated pretty bad at some point. Someone may have replaced the cover on the other side already. Its a non-interference 2.2 though. Run it naked (no covers). Clean up the crank and slather a bunch of antiseize all over the snout so that sprocket doesn't rust to it again. The words "oil pump gasket" scream "I'm gonna leak". Anaerobic flange sealant is the best stuff for the oil pump. And it doesn't leak. RTV makes little globs that can clog the oil feed passages for the rocker arms and those are very time consuming to remove and tear down just to clean the clog out of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) The felpro gasket kit came with the O ring, the crank seal, and a thin gasket for around the oil pump,, not paper,, not cork,, not rubber,, its kinda like a thin clothlike paper. So that's what I used after I cleaned up both surfaces. Edited October 25, 2014 by xdeadeye1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 I found this on a web site regarding the 2.2 engine. This could explain the melting damage to the inner passenger timing cover: Notice the locating pin on back of the sprockets for reinstallation. Also locate the reluctors on the back of the left camshaft sprocket. These are the cam angle sensor reference triggers. Note: The left camshaft sprocket must not be installed on the right camshaft, as damage to the inner right cam belt cover may occur. A no start condition also will result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 I found this on a web site regarding the 2.2 engine. This could explain the melting damage to the inner passenger timing cover: Notice the locating pin on back of the sprockets for reinstallation. Also locate the reluctors on the back of the left camshaft sprocket. These are the cam angle sensor reference triggers. Note: The left camshaft sprocket must not be installed on the right camshaft, as damage to the inner right cam belt cover may occur. A no start condition also will result. I dont think this is the cause of your melted cover - as it notes, if the pulleys are accidentally swapped, the engine wont run - at all. misplacing the pulleys could cause rubbing damage to the plastic when trying to crank the engine, but it is gauranteed it wont start. there was something else going on for that cover to be melted that badly. and I agree with the others - get that "gasket" out of there and use the proper sealant to avoid leaks, and headaches, down the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 He uses same thing in this video: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Well done video, by which I mean that it is clear and easy to follow. The question is: did the seal leak since the video was made 10 months ago? I have always been afraid to take off the oil pump because to the problem of sealing it, although using the anerobic sealant rather then the rtv would set my mind at ease. Problem of sealing explained: if there is too much sealant used that it may/will brake off an plug some of the oil passages as mentioned in the video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Wouldn't the oil filter catch any rtv chunks? Though if the oil filter bypass opens i.e. when the oil is cold and thick then the rtv chunks could get by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidecarDoug Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 If you buy the Gates kit from NAPA (at least for 2001 and later 2.5,) the kit includes a new tensioner and all the small timing belt pulleys and sprockets except the crankshaft sprocket, and of course the water pump pulley, which comes on the new water pump. Since the timing belt has to come off to replace the water pump, I usually replace the pump - especially if I don't have personal knowledge that it was replaced recently - think of it as insurance against having to do the belt again sooner than would otherwise be required! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 If you buy the Gates kit from NAPA (at least for 2001 and later 2.5,) the kit includes a new tensioner and all the small timing belt pulleys and sprockets except the crankshaft sprocket, and of course the water pump pulley, which comes on the new water pump. Since the timing belt has to come off to replace the water pump, I usually replace the pump - especially if I don't have personal knowledge that it was replaced recently - think of it as insurance against having to do the belt again sooner than would otherwise be required! This thread is three years old, dude 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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