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Legacy makes clicking noise when driving and rolls in park

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My 1996 Legacy has been making a clicking noise on the drivers side for the past month when I turn to the right. Today, the noise is more pronounced and is even happening when I drive straight down the street. On top of that, my car is now rolling when I put it into park. I have read lot's of stuff on the net that suggests that this problem could be related to the parking pawl going out or being jammed. I was curious if this issue could be related to the Left CV axle needing to be replaced or if that could have caused the parking pawl to fail? If I replace my drivers side CV axle, could this fix all the issues? Thanks for any help in this matter. DESPERATE

 

Happy New Year,

 

Jake

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I'd jack up the front end and see if you can rotate the wheel while someone holds the other.  You could have a bad cv joint, totally disconnected.  

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Thanks so much for the quick replies. If the CV axle was totally broken, would I still be able to drive the car but not be able to put it into park without it rolling on me? I have the e-brake engaged now but I am not going to drive it until I replace the drivers side CV axle. I just wasn't sure if this was common for a car to act in this way. My tranny has been solid and not slipped ever so that is why I'm hoping that these issues I am experiencing are just related to the CV axle failing due to wear and tear.

 

Again, thanks a million!

 

Jake

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Hi,

My '96 Legacy did the same thing...when the pass. side was completely broken. The car would drive up to about 30mph and putting it into Park didn't keep it from rolling.

 

Put in a new axle about 30K miles ago,  and it's still going strong.....

TD

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Putting the trans in park engages the parking pawl to the output shaft of the trans. This only locks the front pinion shaft from turning. The pinion shaft prevents the ring gear on the differential from turning, but it does not prevent the side gears inside the differential from turning.

The axles are connected to the side gears. The side gears will rotate opposite of each other. (This is normal operation for a differential.) If one axle breaks, the axles can then rotate and the car can roll away. (The broken one will rotate the opposite direction of the wheel)

 

The rear wheels are powered by a clutch set in the rear of the trans. The clutch set needs fluid pressure in order to engage. It only gets fluid pressure when the engine is running, and the transmission is in gear. When you start driving the clutch engages and the rear wheels will propel the car. When parked the clutch is free so no power can go to the rear wheels. This also means the rear wheels will not hold the car still when the trans is in park.

 

Put a new axle in it and you'll be set.

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Wow! Thank everyone for your helpful advice and valuable information. I especially LOVE the fact that you took the time Su bah roo'n to give me an education on the components of the front end. This new nugget of knowledge will serve me well now and in the future. I very much appreciate it. I found a re-manufactured drivers side CV axle for $52 from carquest so I'm going to go pick it up. 

 

God bless y'all and have a Happy New Year.

 

Jake

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STOP! Don't do it! Jake come back!

 

OK...2much?   :)

 

Plz don't use that axle, unless you LIKE changing them every 6 months (depending on your # of miles). Those cheap axles don't have a good rep on any of the Subie sites.....pony up for a better one, still less than $100 usually.

 

td

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hahahaha! You bust me up TD. Thank you for the heads up. I will most definitely shop around then. I do not want to repeat this job in the near future and would rather use quality components to do it right the first time. 

 

Much appreciative,

 

Jake

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Sorry everyone, I forgot to update y'all with my CV axle issue. So, I replaced the drivers side CV axle with a brand new one and it now runs like a champ. The old CV axle was completely busted on the wheel side and I was shocked that my car still drove down the road when I heard the initial noises and that it held up so that I could make it home where I chose to park it till I could tear in to it. I want to thank y'all so much for your assistance with this project. I am relieved to have this problem fixed and to be back on the road with my Subie.

 

Hope his thread will help someone else in the future.

 

Jake

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On 12/29/2014 at 8:03 PM, Fairtax4me said:

Putting the trans in park engages the parking pawl to the output shaft of the trans. This only locks the front pinion shaft from turning. The pinion shaft prevents the ring gear on the differential from turning, but it does not prevent the side gears inside the differential from turning.

The axles are connected to the side gears. The side gears will rotate opposite of each other. (This is normal operation for a differential.) If one axle breaks, the axles can then rotate and the car can roll away. (The broken one will rotate the opposite direction of the wheel)

 

The rear wheels are powered by a clutch set in the rear of the trans. The clutch set needs fluid pressure in order to engage. It only gets fluid pressure when the engine is running, and the transmission is in gear. When you start driving the clutch engages and the rear wheels will propel the car. When parked the clutch is free so no power can go to the rear wheels. This also means the rear wheels will not hold the car still when the trans is in park.

 

Put a new axle in it and you'll be set.

I went to look at a 95 Legacy Wagon today that has the same symptoms. So if it is a broken front cv joint is it ok to drive it six miles? I might be able to get this car at a low price.

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is it stick or auto trans?

some folks say the 5spd won't transfer enough power to the rear for safe driving on public roads???

 

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1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:

is it stick or auto trans?

some folks say the 5spd won't transfer enough power to the rear for safe driving on public roads???

 

Automatic transmission.

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11 minutes ago, wtdash said:

My '96 AWD Auto would only do 35MPH w/the front right broken CV. YMMV.

If I buy it I only have to drive about six miles on a lightly traveled road to get it home.

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5 hours ago, Ravenwoods said:

If I buy it I only have to drive about six miles on a lightly traveled road to get it home.

 

It might work, but it's torture for the rear transfer plates.  Might wear them substantially. or might destroy them and leave you unable to drive.  Problem is the TCU tries to disengage the rear more and more the faster you go, so it will be slipping like crazy any speed above 20 mph or so.  I suppose you could cut the wire to the transfer solenoid to go "full lock" mod and splice it back in or install a switch later.

I''d just take an axle, a breaker bar, and a 19mm socket, a 32mm socket and a roll pin punch and change it out before driving.  Only take 30 mins or less to change.

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2 minutes ago, FerGloyale said:

 

It might work, but it's torture for the rear transfer plates.  Might wear them substantially. or might destroy them and leave you unable to drive.  Problem is the TCU tries to disengage the rear more and more the faster you go, so it will be slipping like crazy any speed above 20 mph or so.  I suppose you could cut the wire to the transfer solenoid to go "full lock" mod and splice it back in or install a switch later.

I''d just take an axle, a breaker bar, and a 19mm socket, a 32mm socket and a roll pin punch and change it out before driving.  Only take 30 mins or less to change.

Thanks for the very helpful advice.

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