ARJ Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Anyone ever use permatex ultra copper to coat a oil pan cork gasket . Thinking this because of its extra adhesive qualities ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I have used it there. I do believe that it has minimized the leaking. I've used it on a couple of other things also and haven't seen any leaks. I say give it a try can't hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdudik Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I like aviation form-a-gasket on the cork ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 put it on the pan side of the gasket and leave the block side dry. I have used copper permatex on exhaust gaskets. I would recommend or prefer ultra grey on any oil seals. Good luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 put it on the pan side of the gasket and leave the block side dry. I have used copper permatex on exhaust gaskets. I would recommend or prefer ultra grey on any oil seals. Good luck +1 Ultra grey is used in many factory applications for sealing oil pans, valve covers and timing covers. Every Subaru I have ever sealed with it (oil pan wise) has never leaked, though I eliminate the gasket entirely. Ultra copper is designed for high heat dry applications and works great for those if you have a leak you can't stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatfourx4 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Its a great Idea. The block and pan are different metals. The copper one bas been the longest "in-use" for Brittish cars (which are...in my mind, garbage. No offense!), but is extremely effective. The motor oil has a 'nominal' static charge. This charge, when not correctly diffused (i.e. through copper-coat) will, in time cause leaks. Hate to sound like a nerd, but the stuff works. All metals react with other dissimilar metals (i.e. steel&aluminum or steel&magnesium, or aluminum/steel). Its basic Chemistry guys. Now that we know that certian metals react in different ways with others, we know to apply these different sealants (silocone based and impregnated with other materials...) to keep our lubricants where they belong. GL (Good Luck) and stay thirsty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 I use peramtex "the Right Stuff" for all my oil pans without any gasket. The EA cork gaskets suck and the EJ's don't use em anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hsoj Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Does anyone remember the name of GD's post about coating the cork with ultra grey and letting it dry first before installing? I tried it but I dont remember if I put more on wet when installing. I still have no leaks and its been a few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 not sure about the GD post, but he advised me personally to go with no cork and use only ultra grey on the oil pan. 3 years and no leaks on two different ea82's. I would like to hear more on the different metals and some basic chemistry. I always thought that the problem with the 2.5 and the blowing headgaskets was related to some sort of dielectric condition. Maybe a 'galvie' anode would be a good idea on all motors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) Its a great Idea. The block and pan are different metals. The copper one bas been the longest "in-use" for Brittish cars (which are...in my mind, garbage. No offense!), but is extremely effective. You know why there are no British computer companies? Because they haven't figured out how to give a computer an oil leak! Hahahaha Strange they would use the ultra copper since it was originally designed for dry, high temp applications. Not saying it doesn't work, but the ultra grey is specific for wet applications and heat. The electrolysis issue you spoke of really only happens between the heads and blocks and more so when it is aluminum to cast iron. Water pumps are another place unless it's aluminum to aluminum. Never seen it happen on a valve cover or oil pan. Edited January 16, 2015 by skishop69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Electrolysis requires dissemination similar metals, and an electrolyte - water that is either acid or caustic. The reaction is more extreme the further the pH gets from neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luvn737s Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 +100 on the Right Stuff. Expensive, but it does the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Electrolysis requires dissemination similar metals, and an electrolyte - water that is either acid or caustic. The reaction is more extreme the further the pH gets from neutral. I believe you mean dissimilar. Disseminate means to spread information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARJ Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Disagree with the experts personal experience tells me different ,coat the pan surface with permatex , smear one side of gasket completely with thin coating of permatex lay coated side of gasket on pan with screws through bolt holes (to insure alignment of holes) slight pressure all round on gasket leave an hour or two until it hold shape over holes ,Coat other side of gasket with thin layer of permatex , coat engine flange with thin layer of permatex bolt sump pan to engine take up pressure only to ensure full surface contact evenly all round . Leave 24hrs then tighten to either torque pressure or about half to three quarters of a further turn, "don't over tighten" . The permatex on the gasket helps stop it spreading . Permatex black seals larger gaps and sticks better to oil usage situations than either grey or copper ,but these work just as well Over the top maybe but guaranteed to seal always . Always clean surfaces with degreaser wash clean dry ,then permatex gasket cleaner or brake cleaner either works fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARJ Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Should of mentioned on turbo ea engine it's easier to put two stud bolts into engine flange one either side to align sump pan without it sliding to one side thus wiping off permatex as I said maybe over the top but hay it works ARJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Skishop69 - yes, autocorrect garbled my writing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 ...I would recommend or prefer ultra grey on any oil seals. Good luck ...The EA cork gaskets suck and the EJ's don't use em anyhow. I Agree with both above comments... I use Ultra / Mega Grey on Oil Pans and other "oily" Areas with Awesome Results. Also I don't use the Cork seals anymore ... Here's an example: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101718-kia-sephia-sporty/page-8?do=findComment&comment=1120355 I preffer Ultra Cooper for intake manifold gaskets. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Built plenty of Jaguar straight sixes with Cork sump gaskets and never had a leak, the trick is to coat the gasket with CV grease the Black stuff which melts initially but then leaves a coating like graphite that helps seal things nicely. But the real trick is to assemble with an Inch Pound Torque wrench evenly and put some nut lock on the fasteners so they maintain that even pressure (Which is very light) that way they never come loose and maintain that even pressure and guess what they do not leak and the cork allows for differential expansion rates. If not using Cork like that however I will only use Threebond it is head and shoulders above all other Silicon based sealants and even it has a range of different sealants, For instance use TB1104 rather than TB1215 the 1104 is what Japanese Motorcycle manufacturers use to seal their crankcases and it is somewhat more viscous and sticky than the 1215. They also do a Black Threebond that Toyota use to seal their sumps but I have seen that go from $15.00 for a 150gm tube to now $60.00 after they worked out how popular it was and it makes no difference if you buy it as Threebond or Toyota branded sealant same price same great product and no change in the formula to justify the price increase either as the MSDS Data sheets proved that to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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