03Foxtrot Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 (edited) Just picked up a '91 Loyale for $399. replaced the front diff and CV axles, and muffler. Still having a few issues: 1-brake pedal is soft when running, and pumping the brakes at idle causes an engine miss. 2-with the lights on, the left turn signal causes the stop lamp dash light to flash. 3-the temp slider does not change the air temp out of the vents. 4-the windows all roll down from the master switch, but only the drivers window goes up from the same switch. 5-the oil pressure gauge is 15ish pounds at start up, but drops off to below zero when running. Any help with these issues would be much appreciated. Edited May 14, 2015 by 03Foxtrot 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Foxtrot Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Update: 1-The soft brake pedal is a weeping RR wheel cylinder. Ordered today and will install soon. 2-The no heat issue seems to be clogged heater core lines, I will clean them out and check again. 3-I hooked a mechanical oil pressure gauge up and got 60PSI at idle when cold so oil pressure is golden. 4-The window and turn signal issues are TBD, and after driving around a little the original rear struts are definitely garbage. I would like to find some 14 or 15 inch steel Pug wheels. I am in SW Ohio if anyone has some let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Wow, nice find! Interesting that its Black with the red strip on the moldings. I apologize I didn't see this thread sooner to help answer the questions you have already answered. As for the soft brake pedal, if it is still soft after bleeding them with the new wheel cylinder, its possible the master under the hood has failed. Mine is the same way, 3/4 of the way until the pedal actually gets firm. I am planning on replacing mine. I am pretty sure one from a 1st gen legacy can be retrofitted in place, but I will have to look that up again, its been a while.Pumping the brake pedal while running usually causes a little idle disturbance in most vehicles, because of the vacuum from the booster, no worries there. As for the windows. Inside the switches/master switch. There are copper contacts with carbon touch stones which over time get oxidized causing a poor connection, you can take the master switch apart and clean the contacts. Just be careful, they are a little tricky, and making sure the copper contacts are in right while reassembling is of most importance. I can't remember if the master switch also has small springs inside as well. The Turn signal making the brake light flash on the dash sounds like a short. Or someone tied something into the wrong wire (Trailer wiring etc.)Hope some of this helps you. If you have any more questions feel free to PM me -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 For rear struts. Go with KYB 341065 (Left and Right) These are gonna be the factory length and stroke, but KYB makes some good products and these will indeed improve drivability. If you are also looking for stiffer springs you can look up King springs from Aus, or look up MOOG CC248 springs. They are 86-89 Honda Accord front springs, but fit perfectly onto the rear struts. These will be some super heavy load springs (This is what I have on mine with a 6" lift) but if you cut a coil or two off the top of the spring, it will be less harsh, but an improvement over the possibly sagged out rear springs currently on it. Just some ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Foxtrot Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 (edited) Thanks Tom, I found it on craigslist in Cincinnati, always wanted an old Subaru, and when I started checking out mods and off road ideas for it your threads were some of the ones that convinced me to buy it. The red stripe on the moulding was my idea, I had some 3/8" red pinstripe in the garage and it fit the moulding perfect. Interesting thought about the short causing the turn signal issue, it does have trailer wiring and the factory hitch so I will follow that and see where it goes. I actually just found the same KYB struts you mentioned on Amazon for $44 each, they are my next purchase. The roof and hood were completely sun-faded all the way to the primer, so I scuffed them and Plastidip sprayed them, turned out better than I expected. The steelies I had to scrub and paint, and I found the centercaps on ebay. I want to find either some 185/80/13 tires, or some 14" Pug steelies. The factory wheels and tires do not look good they are way too small. Future plans would be fog/driving lights, roof rack, maybe a 3.9 LSD rear if I can find one, nothing major just a cool old cruiser that will go anywhere. Edited May 15, 2015 by 03Foxtrot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Awesome! Sounds like you have a good handle on things so far. The red stripe looks good in there too! Yeah the tires do look tiny on these. Mainly because most of the time you can only find 165/75/13s (13" tires are becoming so hard to find, at least decent ones) 14s are getting hard too, but not as bad. I may have a set of 14" Alloy pugs up for grabs soon, would even come with a Steelie spare if you are interested in Alloy at all. They are a little rough (Not curb crashed, just pitted) but I need to take a closer look at them. They come with the chrome pug center caps and the special lugs. Right now they have 27" Grabbers mounted to them (Which are a little too big for a non lifted car (Unless you want to hack the hell out of it) :/ But I will also have a 2" lift up for grabs for the EA82s as well. Short story, I bought a friends '92 Loyale, and am gonna strip it all down and just junk whats left of the shell. I will have pretty much everything and anything off a Gray loyal with gray interior. it is EJ25 swapped, so I won't have any EA82 bits. Still have to get the car to my house and start tearing it down before I know what I'll have Jason (Bratman18) swears by having an LSD in the rear. I have yet to get one, since there is pretty much nothing around WI. Keep up the good work man! I'll be keen to see more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 I am also glad my threads could help others, that is indeed the whole point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 Welcome to the Board! Nice looking Wagon.. Liking the Red trim stripe also. The trailer wiring could very well be the issue with the Stop Lamp light issue. I would also check the ground circuit for that sides light assembly. Bad/iffy grounding can cause all sorts of weird things to happen with automotive lighting circuits. With the dash light coming on, makes me think there is a back-feed in the circuits, usually caused by bad ground. When bleeding the brakes, do one rear then opposite front, as these are cross-plumbed systems Right rear-Left front, Left rear-Right front. Make sure rear brakes are properly adjusted as well as the parking brake. Finding a Factory rear LSD will be somewhat difficult. They are out there, but rather rare. You can swap the center piece from the 3.7 LSD into your 3.9 diff though. Just swap the ring gears, a little grinding of the case is needed also. Tom 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Foxtrot Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Tom, I would be interested in the wheels, and if that gray loyale has the retractable cargo cover I want that too. I will post more pics soon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 (edited) Tom R has some good information. I agree with the grounding issue, I've had my fair share of weird dash lights and tach/speedo flicking because of bad grounds and back feeding (From a failing Disty) If anything, add another ground from the motor to the engine bay, more ground can never hurt. The whole light thing with the turn signals is still kinda making me ponder. Because the light on the dash is only to indicate that the Parking brake is being used. The light serves no other purpose. But either way, let us know if you figure that out. As for the parts, I'm pretty sure it has the cargo cover. Once I get the car, I will look at it, and see what condition its in and clean it up and send you a photo, plus a photo of the wheels. Edited May 15, 2015 by TheLoyale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sull Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 Great find! Also like the red striping. Look forward to seeing your car transform. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Foxtrot Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 So today wheel cylinder replaced, I turned my attention to the lack of heat. I unhooked both heater core lines and sure enough, it is clogged on th inlet side. So I used the garden hose to push from outlet to inlet, clog gone and voila! Heat.........and then the fuel filter decided that after 24 years it was done filtering. Lol, never a dull moment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Foxtrot Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) So I found a perfectly good forester 6disc/tape deck factory stereo at the junk yard. I used the cargo tray in front of the shifter as the trim bezel since that stereo is so deep. Not quite finished, but I now have a radio. Edited May 22, 2015 by 03Foxtrot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Foxtrot Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 As for the windows. Inside the switches/master switch. There are copper contacts with carbon touch stones which over time get oxidized causing a poor connection, you can take the master switch apart and clean the contacts. Just be careful, they are a little tricky, and making sure the copper contacts are in right while reassembling is of most importance. I can't remember if the master switch also has small springs inside as well. -Tom Tom, I took the switch out today and used a q-tip and sometimes a pocket screwdriver to clean the very dirty contacts. Just for future use it does not have tiny springs inside. Pretty simple little project and now all the master switches work as designed. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Oh, maybe thats the Landcruiser master switch (Which is 100x worse to take apart) You know Toyota, they like making things more complex then they need to be haha. Glad you got the switch sorted. It should help. I wouldn't doubt that the motors are also getting dry and are slow, mine are and every other Loyale I've been in has slow windows. Incase you decide to remove the motors and regrease them, DON'T! It is a royal PITA to get the armature bushes back in and slide the armature back over them (Rear wiper motor is the same way lol) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Foxtrot Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 (edited) Found some old Nissan P/U wheels and tires for $100 for the wagon! They are 195/75/14s and they fit with no trimming. Way smoother ride and better handling than the 185/75/13s I took off. Edited July 13, 2015 by 03Foxtrot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03Foxtrot Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 (edited) And now the roof rack has arrived and gone on. Still fiddling with a slow brake leak somewhere and the oil leak onto the exhaust, and an exhaust leak at the collector. Edited July 23, 2015 by 03Foxtrot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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