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martimus919

My new turd, Lifted 90 Turbo 4WD

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I guess my wife feels bad that we had to leave the Brat back in Utah when we moved to Reno or something because she let me buy this:

 

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This is some of the handy work from the previous owner. Bypassing the turbo by disconnecting the oil and coolant and of course, the waste gate vacuum line, but definitely NOT the exhaust.

 

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Should be some fun playing with this until I get the Brat back.

 

Need to fix the lift, did a straight spacer lift with no camber correction. Car doesn't start still. Got a new fuel pump and have to fix timing that was really changed to somehow assist the turbo being, "Bypassed". A few cosmetics like lights but all in all pretty good shape.

Edited by martimus919
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This is a Great Project Car for Sure, and 1990 was the Last year for Turbo EA82's

 

Somehow the tires looks to be Awry / Deformed...

 

Was the car sitting for Long time?

 

Kind Regards.

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I think thats just spray paint on the tires. Looks like someone had fun with primer, Gray walls, it adds class? Lol :P

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Tire's are pretty decent, the front have a lot of camber wear but it was sitting for a few years. I am rather surprised how good of condition they're still in though. But they did spray paint the tires... and bumpers... and, well yeah. I think they gave a rattle can to a kid and said to have fun.

 

Got it running this morning, pretty sure I can hear the turbo screaming from not having oil running through it for a while. I'll get a new one in after next weekend when we go back home where I've got another factory turbo for it. The only turbos I have here are a VF11 and TD04 and I don't really want to try putting those in yet.

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I like it, should be a great tinkering project. What size are those tires? Looks like stock 13" steelies but those tires appear huge for a 13 rim.

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I like it, should be a great tinkering project. What size are those tires? Looks like stock 13" steelies but those tires appear huge for a 13 rim.

Those are Peugeot wheels.

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Looks like a good candidate for a $50 Rustoleum paint job. Done a few myself over the years and they turn out great. Foam rollers, rustoleum and mineral spirits. Some good sanding and it comes out great!

 

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Ford probe and Mazda MX-6 I did a number of years back in Rustoeum "sunrise red" I was a first timer and got pretty good results. Not professional quality but for $50. invested in cars I paid about $350 a piece for, can't go wrong.

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Yeah paint is one of the last things on my list, I obviously didn't buy it cause of the sweet looker that it is haha. But if I ever do I'm probably just going to buy a can of tan or army green Plasti-Dip and just spray it with a gun real quick.

 

I pulled out the turbo yesterday and... well it's definitely bad:

 

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Put it side by side to one of my VF11 turbos and it seems almost identical. I might play with changing out the exhaust housing on my replacement turbo so I can run one of my catted downpipes from the Legacy turbo or WRX.

Edited by martimus919

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Got the replacement turbo in, axle boots replaced, and patched a tire. Figured while the tire was off I'd paint the wheel real quick so it doesn't look so much like a collage of vomit coloring. 

 

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For some reason I kept the white walls out, maybe the paint will flake off... Hopefully.

 

I also got front spacers from Anderson Design & Fab so I can fix my camber:

 

IMAG0387_zpss9apgyxv.jpg

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The wheels are looking good in Black!

 


For some reason, your Photos...
 

...
IMAG0326_zpscy5glsqu.jpg
...

 

...are Gone, I bet you moved your whole Album on Photobucket.

Kind Regards.

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A lot happier with how the wheels look now, I'm painting two more today. But yeah, I did some organizing last night and forgot to double check to see if the pics still showed up from photobucket.

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I drove the car around last week and pulled a couple of codes, (Codes: 31, 33, 35, 42). What concerns me the most now is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which I can concur theres are issues, it does not drive well any more... like at all. In Reno there was only 1 Loyale Turbo in the junk yards, so I went to pick up the TPS and they decided to crush the car early. I was able to jump the fence and go see if the sensor was still intact, but of course it wasn't.

 

So I'm now in desperate need to find a TPS for a reasonable price. I could also use a Canister Purge Solenoid Valve if any one has one or can get of these items I would really appreciate it.

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I've had to put the Turd on hold for a bit. Finding time to work on it has been hard. But I've got all the codes eliminated and It's driving really well now. While testing the speed of the car I forgot I don't have the hood latched down and that they tend to come up at speed. I realized this was not the first time this had happened since there really was no new damage to the hood.

 

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Just need to put the front back together and install the hood release cable. Also the front camber problem was not resolved with the front lift spacers I got from Anderson Design. Any one else had that problem?

 

 

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You've probably got them in backwards, common mistake.

 

Unless he labeled them wrong I should have them on right. D=Drivers side P=Passenger side, arrows indicating to front of car. It is a little better but there is definitely still positive camber. I haven't aligned it yet, so I don't know the exact numbers.

 

What are those rims? 14" 4x140? Pugs?

 

That's the only wheel I think they could be. I've never seen Peugeot steelies, but it's the only one that makes sense to me. I can tell you that they were real annoying to mount to the balancer.

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I think I've about had it with the stock engine. I keep messing with things to get it to pass emissions and it works for a while until I go to take the test.

 

For some reason once I get it warmed up it starts to fall on its face while driving. It won't hold 2500 RPM, it will cut out and rise back up while holding the throttle steady. It does hold 2500 RPM once I disconnect the throttle possition connector. I've tried 2 different good TPS sensors, played with timing and idle, changed plugs, wires, and cap and rotor. I even changed the temp sensor for kicks.

 

I'm tired of fighting this with the limited time I have, so I'm going to get things ready to put in one of my EJ22t engines from my Legacy and be done with the old EA.

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Is your emission test a tailpipe test, or is it a plug in test.    If its only a tailpipe test, just run it on denatured alcohol. 

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Is your emission test a tailpipe test, or is it a plug in test.    If its only a tailpipe test, just run it on denatured alcohol. 

I am well aware of the tricks to get a vehicle to pass emissions, I actually have 2 emission testing licences.

 

But the problem is not it blowing within the limits, it's being able to get through the test without cutting out.

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Well it's been some time since I've updated this. I have since given up on trying to get the original engine working after finding out the EGR was plugged and once hot would basically force the car to fall on it's face. Furthermore, I also found out that the head gaskets were puking coolant. So, instead of put more money and a lot more time into that engine, I decided to just get ride of it and do a EJ swap. I had the parts, I had the wiring, so why not. 

 

So out with this thing

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New beginnings. Short block is a EJ25D from an 1st gen Outback, heads are EJ22t using the 2.5D head gasket. Should make for some fun.

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I don't think the 2" spacers I bought from Anderson Fab did quite the job fixing my camber so I decided to drop the subframe and create more problems for myself farther down the road.

 

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New engine set in place.

 

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Now to start wiring.

 

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When I thought I was all done with the wiring.

 

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To try and make this a little easier then when I swapped my Brat I got a radiator and had a shop modify the inlet and outlet to allow the same hose sizes as the EJ engines use as well as put on an extra nipple for the turbos breather tank (which I forgot to specify which side to put it on and so now it goes to the cold side instead of the hot side where it belongs).

 

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Went down to a local hose and fitting shop and made a new power steering line so I could use the stock lines to the rack to try to make this as seamless and possible.

 

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I have since driven the car a few times around the neighborhoods and have found that I have leaky head gaskets again. This time it's oil and appears to be coming from the front of the engine for some reason. I'm a little confused by this but I am already thinking I might rebuild one of my semi-closed 2.5 turbo blocks and use another set of 2.2 turbo heads I have and building another long block and paying a little extra attention to head gaskets this time.

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