bratbro Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 So I noticed if the Brat sits for a day the fuel starts to drain back to the pump. Haven't found leaks so I plan on draining the gas (6years old) and maybe flush the tank. Has anyone flushed theirs? Suggestion? Also just received: 1. new fuel pump and filter 2. studs to install the headers My garage is full of motorcycles right now so hopefully I can move them out and install the parts this weekend. Updates after its done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 Update: headers bolted back on so the cabin isn't full of smoke like before. But both mufflers are holy and one of the pipes is rusted out. I don't want to bring it to a shop to fix since we don't have emissions in my state.is there a exhaust kit available ? Can anyone give me a link? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 (edited) The exhaust leak is going to be put off. Im going to the busted axle so hopefully soon it'll be drivable. Here's what I was facing. Never mind. Can't figure out how to add pictures from my phone. Edited September 12, 2015 by bratbro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 I has no idea on those BB's. No "Ball Bearings" in these disty's that I have ever seen. Best enlighten everybody that has never totally rebuilt or modified early distributors, Those Ball bearings sit between the points plate halves and are part of the vacuum advance setup, If you pull the plate out of the dissy even thougn yours has no points the plate the points would mount on is two piece to allow the vacuum advance to operate and the two halves run on little ball bearings in between somehow they have become dislodged, Some models are held together with a circlip and are easy to oull apart which I do to clean and lube that area so the vacuum advance works smoothly others require some more drastic surgery as the factory stakes the halves together at the central bearing area, Regardless the bearings do need to go back where they belong and need to operate freely or the car will run like crap as the vacuum advance becomes sticky and jams up sometimes. Mechanical advance operates by moving the Points cam assembly, Vacuum advance units move a moveable plate that is part of the top plate that bolts into the distributor body and actually move either the Igniter pickup module or the points in relation to the rotor cam position, Thus both can vary ignition timing independant of each other, These plates on better quality distributors move on small ball bearings that sit into a spring steel spacer to hold them inplace to support the plate so it moves smoothly and accurately so they are pretty important in getting an engine running properly as designed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Coxy, Thanks for the info on distributors. I have not tore into one that far I guess. Learned something this morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 strut wouldn't move with out having a screw driver wedge in. but wont move past halfway point. tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 You need to force the control arm down more to clear the end of the strut. Looking at the 2nd pic, place a stout bar over the strut rod, and under the pivot of the control arm. Press down on bar, and it should move the knuckle off the strut. The strut rod is attached to the control arm and runs back towards the trans mount. Place the bar next to the attachment for the sway bar, and angle it forward to go under pivot point of control arm. I use a 4 foot pry bar to do this, using my foot to push it down. I undo the pinch-bolt for the ball joint vs. the one for the strut. Less movement needed to pop the ball-joint out of knuckle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 After having a Ball joint that would not play ball easily the last time I did a driveshaft my only option where I did it was to remove the lower control arm Inner Bolt and I think it is actually easier than the traditional method because there is enough movement that way that aside from the Hub Nut and inner Roll pin nothing else needed to be undone to swap out a front driveshaft. Bit fiddly getting the inner control arm bolt lined up but no big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 well i ended up unbolting the ball joint from the control arm and finally the steering knuckle came off. i thought it would be a easy task but it looks like i did it the hard way. now that i have it taken apart do i just pull the seals one at a time till i get the rest of the axle off? this axle dosent have a hole for the cotter pin. is that normal? Also any suggestions on how to put it back together? i been useing the shop book but nothing has worked. thats why i ended up doing this the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 no pin hole. aftermarket axel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 this is all that was left of the axel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.