1999 Impreza Outback Sport Automatic Transmission

[sjsmit8]

I am having some trouble with my 1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport. I was out driving the other day, simple point-a to point-b, and when I arrived home I put my vehicle in park and turned the vehicle off. However, when I took my keys out of the ignition and took my foot off the brake, the vehicle began to roll forward. I quickly engaged the brake and the car stopped. I took my foot off the brake again and the car began to roll again. I then attempted to engage the brake and start my vehicle. No luck. The engine would not even turn over. Additionally the gear shifter is locked in the position that indicates the vehicle is in park. Even when I put the keys in the ignition and turn them as if I were starting the car the shifter will not move from the park position. 

 

So here is what I have tried. With the help of my owners manual I was able to take the panels off of my center console where my gear shifter is located, I was able to override the locking mechanism that was keeping my shifter in the park position, and move the shifter to neutral. I attempted to start the vehicle in neutral. No luck. I moved the gear shifter back into 2nd and then all the way forward to park. I did this a few times and then attempted to start the vehicle again in both park and neutral. No luck. From here I turned my attention to the internet in hopes that I would find a clear explanation on how to fix this issue myself.  No luck there. I got some clues in a forum similar to this that the problem could be either my "neutral safety switch" or my "inhibitor switch." I saw a few posts debating whether or not an automatic transmission (AT) vehicle, such as mine, did or did not have a "neutral safety switch." At this point I called my father and he agreed to come over and offer any help that he could. Together we were able to locate what looks to be my vehicles "neutral safety switch" and from there we were able to manipulate this switch by pushing what look like shifter arms in a clockwise fashion and this allowed the vehicle to start up. However, even with the vehicle now on, the problem persisted. I was not able to move my gear shifter from the park position. I overrode the locking mechanism again and moved the gear shifter into reverse and then drive but this had no apparent effect on the vehicle. I would really like to find a solution to this issue and do the repairs myself. I appreciate any advice or comments that will help me find that solution. Thank you in advance. 

Edited August 6, 2015 by sjsmit8

[sjsmit8]

I tried posting some pictures here. I couldn't get it to work though. 

Edited August 6, 2015 by sjsmit8

[lmdew]

Sounds like the shift cable broke or is out of adjustment.

It's pretty easy to check and adjust if necessary.  Get a good manual and it will show you how to do it.

Larry

[johnceggleston]

or busted front axle.

 

the ''park lock'' mechanism locks the main shaft at the rear of trans,

this ''locks the front diff pinion shaft.

but with an ''open'' front diff,

and if you have a busted axle,

the busted axle will be locked

and the good axle can turn.

this allows the wheel to roll.

 

test:

hand brake on

jack up one front wheel

turn it by hand.

this should not happen if both axles are good.

 

i'm pretty sure this info is correct,

but i'm having a senior moment.

so feel free to correct me if i'm wrong.

especially if my conclusion is right,

but my logic or mechanics are wrong.

[porcupine73]

Based on how you described that even after you got it started moving the shifter didn't make the car move it could be that the shifter cable snapped. I had that happen on my '94 though it gave some warning. If you were able to manually move the shifter thingy on the side of the transmission then I think it is likely the cable snapped. When you move the shifter in the cabin, does it have pretty much no resistance to moving?

 

Right the autos don't have a neutral safety switch per se (that's what Subaru calls it on the MT's) though the autos do have a position switch and right it will not engage the starter unless it thinks it is in park or neutral. Same with the shift interlock solenoid, unless it thinks it is in park it won't release the interlock when you press on the brake (and hence you cannot get it out of park as you mentioned without sticking a screwdriver in the little slot or doing what you mentioned).

Edited August 7, 2015 by porcupine73

[sjsmit8]

Thank you for your help. When I move the shifter in the cabin after overriding the lock there is no resistance moving through the gears. If indeed the cable d snap is the replacement part needed called a shift cable?

[porcupine73]

If it's the cable, then here is the part you would likely need: 

35151FA040   CABLE ASSEMBLY-SELECT LEVER   list $58.38 

http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1999_Impreza22L-AT-4WDOutback-Sport-Wagon/__6029502/SELECTOR-SYSTEM-SELECT0R-SYSTEM/G10-351-03.html

 

And make sure to get a couple of 33058GA010      NUT-GEAR SHIFT . F-4WAT I don't remember if it comes with that. On my '94 I think it was two of that part, but from the diagram for your '99 it looks like maybe one and perhaps another part it says 'clip'. That is what you turn to adjust it so that when it says it is in D it is actually in D. In this area they are going to be completely rusted out. On my '94 I had to cut it out with a dremel because that threaded rod was so rusted.

 

It might be available aftermarket I am not sure. Best bet for genuine is to order online, you'll pay far more walking into Northtown or West Herr to get it.

 

I replaced it on my '94 it isn't too difficult. The sort of hardest part is getting it adjusted so that when it's in 'D' for example it is actually in D, and not N or 3, and not like 3/4 of the way in D but pretty much pret well centered in D. I think there's a special tool for doing that but I didn't use it. I just tweaked it about a dozen times until it was 'just right'.

 

The way mine broke was I like to use 1, 2, and 3 often, and 1 and 2 were pretty hard to shift into i.e. corrosion in the cable or something. Well I forced it a little too much a few too many times and you could start to feel that it would move to say 2 but it was actually still in drive. Once it started doing that it only took about a dozen operations of the shifter for it to break. And it broke while I was on the way to work. So I just popped the hood and had the engine running with the parking brake set really hard, then I moved the shifter lever on the trans like you mentioned until it was in D, and then just hoped I didn't have to back up until I got to work. Actually I drove it that way a couple days until I could fix it.

Edited August 7, 2015 by porcupine73

[sjsmit8]

Thank you for the post. I finally got around to getting the car over to my father in laws house (I moved the shifter level on the trans by hand into park to get it started and then into drive to get it moving - saved some cash not having to get a tow) and I was able to get under the car and take a look at what was going on for the first time. What we found was that right the rod that connects the shifting cable to the cabin shifter was rusted through and broken. We were able to salvage the nuts that go through the component that attaches the broken rod to the cabin shifter. After thinking about it for a while we decided to attempt to use a rod coupling nut and a new piece of rod and try to just piece everything back together. When we got out hands on the rod coupling nut we next used a tap and die to bring life back to the rusty parts that we wanted to reuse. My father in law and I were both feeling good because in theory we solved the issue and from there we just had to tighten a few bolts and we would be gl. However, when we attempted to piece the old rod, the coupling nut, the new piece of rod, and the old bolts together we had an issue putting the new rod through a component, what looks to be a gimbal, on the arm the extends down from the cabin shifter. Now the gimbal by nature should pivot smoothly as the arm from the cabin shifter moves back and forth through the gears. However the gimbal on my vehicle does not pivot easily and we had a difficult time putting the new rod through the gimbal and then lining it up and tightening the rod to coupling nut on the old rod. It was a deflating end to our day and with a lack of sunlight we decided to spray the gimbal with rust remover and let it sit for the night. I am hoping that we have better luck in the morning. If you have any additional information or schematics I would love to read them. Thank you for your help so far.