MDW Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 So it's probably not worth it to remove? as in, if it looses it's charge it's going to be expensive for someone to re-charge, and I have to mess with discharging that shot...might as well just use it and be super thankful I have it! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Have a look at this post. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147986-my-83-gl-coupe-hardtop-sss/?p=1291485 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 (edited) Very nice, I will find those plugs. Did you end up plugging the thermosensor? or is that needed still? I thought that was a part of the Emissions. Although it is measuring temp from coolant, so maybe I am wrong on that assumption. Here is my end of the day on the ea81 Drivers side Cylinders Drivers side Head Passenger side Cylinders Passenger Side Head Everything looks a little dirty, but the valves have not made contact with the cylinders so thats a plus. The engine looks solid to me, is it supposed to be this dirty? my guess on the bent rods must just be RPM related, after grabbing a slide hammer I will be ale to take the rest of the block apart to inspect inside. Edited August 31, 2015 by MDW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Clashing Pistons and Valves would be pretty impossible. Its Non-interference. Unless the Keeper popped off, dropping the Valve into the cylinder bore. Anyway! The Thermo switch on your intake, is probably just like the one that was on mine. It sends signal to the ECM, depending on Engine temp, it may cause vac leaks thru the VSVs and such, To richen or lean the engine. But since you're gonna run a Weber, you can replace your Thermo switch, with a single terminal kind, so it just operates the Temp Gauge. That is what I did. I'll find the switch for you on eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Here is a link to the single style Temp sender. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Coolant-Temperature-Switch-BECK-ARNLEY-201-0429-/261786955094?hash=item3cf3b7ed56&vxp=mtr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Looking at those pistons, I am really surprised this thing wasn't pinging like crazy when James was driving it. All that carbon is gonna cause pre-ignition like crazy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 You are awesome! seriously. Also I updated my ea81, bent pushrods thread with my hypothesis as to what the issue is/was. I am trying to update both, just incase someone googles, "bent pushrod" they can read a thread on it. here it is again: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/155289-ea81-bent-pushrods/?do=findComment&comment=1299754 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 (edited) ya, I hear ya, the engine was re-built 5K miles before he bought it!!?? I think something was wrong. My hypothesis is that the Emissions junk was faulty sending bad exhaust into the engine, causing the bent pushrods. Edited August 31, 2015 by MDW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 As for everyones assumptions about how the rod became bent. I find it hard to believe this would have been RPM related. Even if the Tac was not working or doesn't have one in the car. You would have to surpass 8000rpm or more to do any harm. I've seen these motors beat on to an unbelievable degree, and never seen one blow. Buddy of mine, had an '82 Brat (Which was rotted out horribly) This was before I knew him, anyway, He bought it out of a Junkyard for $50. Beat the ever loving hell out of that car, and after the shock mounts in the bed rotted thru, he junked it (Again lol) before he did that, He would go down the road in 4th (70mph) jam it in 1st in Low-range, RPMS were so high, the Tac went all the way around to 2000rpm. Even after all that, crashing into a car in the junkyard, ran out of coolant and oil. It was still running when he left it. EA81 is the most durable motors Subaru ever made. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I'll have to check out your other thread, so I can keep up with both 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 Sorry for the multiple threads, hopefully it is more helpful, to someone in the feature. I also noticed that the valves on the piston with the bent rod, were different valves than all the others, they did not have the subie markings on them... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 If you have any questions about the Weber swap and or routing of anything. let me know. Since I just did everything to my '83, its still fresh. Cheers man! -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 No worries on multiple threads. You could post the link to either thread you want, into whichever thread. This way it'll tie the two threads together, more or less. EA81 Bent Pushrod Thread: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 Thanks Tom! I am actually running a webber on my Brat, such a good choice! This one, being older had a few more items on it, and with the manifold off I am going a little further with it, like putting the plugs in, and getting rid of as much as possible. I just capped everything off on the brat with tubing, screws and hose clamps (and duct tape on, what i believe is the exauhst return, haven't gotten to throwing quarters in it yet) My plan was to get this soob up and running, and pull the engine on the brat over the winter to make it all fresh and clean. I am sure I will still have tons of questions though! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical_misfit Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 I really doubt it was rpm related. I was taking it easy at 65-70mph on the highway. It ran great until I stopped to take a leak, then getting back on the highway It seemed under powered. Then after about 40 miles it gradually lost power until I had to admit defeat and tow it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 I knew the RPM thing was probably a long shot, I couldn't see you racing through the mountains on a car you have never driven that you need to get to Michigan in. My other thread had a few comments in it overnight, the consensus after looking at cylinders and heads is that the car was burning oil due to: incorrect piston rings or incorrect size valve (sine the valves in those cylinders are different) or bad head gasket or something else. I will be doing more surgery later to find out more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Sounds like either way, ccr didn't do something right when assembling this engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 I don't want to throw them under the bus until I know for sure, but mistakes happen and something just aint right, haha. ea81 are solid engines, this one has gone all sorts of wrong. EIther way, I'm absolutely loving ripping this thing apart. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) I remember James contacted CCR about it, but got shrugged off. I'm kinda curious what else happened. A Pushrod doesn't just bend. As for the Weber, did you get a genuine one (Not one of the knock off ones maid in Spain) I agree the Weber is a good option, simple and makes good power. I got mine to make a maximum of 23psi of absolute vacuum. Works perfect! Keen to see more about this car I'm not sure who to quote on this extensive thread(s), so I'll start here. The car was purchased from us in April, but I never heard anything back from him until July 29th. After checking with the shop, I emailed him and told him we had extra pushrods, cams and whatever he might need (at no charge) to fix up the engine. I never heard back from him, so I really didn't "shrug him off". We keep extensive, detailed build sheets for every engine we sell, but since this was built for our shop Brat, the guy who built it didn't do one. He no longer works for us and was never a "builder" per se, but every now he'd put something together, especially since Rick was recovering from surgery at the time. He was terrible about keeping records however. And he always had to go for "MOAR POWAH!" (He once put a JDM EJ20 turbo into one of our Brats when I specifically ordered him to use an EJ18 we had.) If Rick had built it, it would be as solid as a rock. In fact, we still build these for aircraft applications and have never had one fail. Here's what little I know about the engine: it's an EA81 with decked heads (probably .30) and 1600 pistons for higher compression. I'd have to see the lifters and the pushrods to tell you whether it's a manual or hydraulic block and heads. (Hydraulics can take higher rpms.) It was in our shop Brat for several years and I know for a fact several of the guys got speeding tickets with it. <evil grin> When we got the green wagon, it needed an engine. The Brat had sat for maybe a year or 2 due to rust issues and our niece needed an "emergency" vehicle, so we put that engine into the '83 and gave it to her for about 9 months (yeah, we're suckers for family). I'm sure it got regular oil changes while she had it, but I have no idea how her husband treated it otherwise. When they didn't need it any more, she gave it back to us. I couldn't bear to part it out or crush it, so I put it up for sale about a month later. Plus, it was running perfectly at the time. I can tell you, from the condition of the heads AND the cylinders, that the car is running too rich. Doing something about the carburetor is a great idea. As far as a bent push rod, the only time I've seen that is from over revving. Remember, these cars were originally built when the national speed limit was 55mph. Also max hp and torque for these engines is quoted at 4800 rpm. As far as parts, it would have NPR rings, NDC (most likely) bearings which were OEM, Genuine gaskets and seals, Paraut water pump probably and possibly rebuilt oil pump. I'm curious to see the outcome of all this. Emily Edited September 1, 2015 by ccrinc 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 ccrinic, Thank you so much for the input. I will keep updating the thread with what I find, at this point I don't really see any damage per-say outside of a bent pushrod and some soot build up. The whole car really needed a good clean up and new carb etc. which I am in the process of adding. It all looks like a vehicle that has been driven a bunch, so no harm no foul there. I will probably just clean it up, check all the parts to see if anything is defective and get it running again. When I talked to James, he did not speak badly about CCR at all and I did not get the impression that anyone blew him off. He was really bummed that the car did not make it back to Michigan, but this is not his first rodeo with old cars. I got the impression that he knew this was a part of the game and it was just unfortunate that the engine took a turn for the worse. He didn't really wan't to bother anyone until he knew exactly what had gone wrong with the engine...because things go wrong with engines, it happens. He probably would have taken you up on the offer, but he just didn't have the time to tear into this engine, which is why I am doing it. At the end of the day, I love this green wagon and am so glad you did not destroy it, or part it out. I will get it fully disassembled and will be posting pictures of each part so we can all have a better idea. It sounds like this engine runs really well, when it runs. Any help I can get diagnosing the issue, will be greatly appreciated. I know I am a new owner now, but if you have parts you can donate to the cause, I will gladly take them to get the car back on the road I am planning a trip to CO next summer and would love to check out CCR when I do. It's a great car and I'm certainly not disappointed with anyone about the engine not currently running. It's a bummer that this happened, but like i said, it happens. Maybe if this engine is as fast as you say it is, I will put it in my Brat Thank again for the info Emily! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 You'd be more than welcome. Just give me at least a day's heads up! I would also like a better picture of the valves: I can't quite see two of them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 I will be working on it more this evening and will get better pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) a common problem for engine rebuilds is when just the engine is rebuilt and the carbs, manifold and dizzy are just banged back on for the next lifetime - not reconditioned, cleaned up or inspected and may contain the reason the previous engine became cactus .....looks like you are going about things the right , OCD way Wasn't this one the one with just 5000 miles on it since rebuilt ? Have since read the post by the previous owners and note the rich mixture comment Also interested to see the 1600 pistons used for higher comp. The only after market pistons I have seen are a compromise piston to do EA71, EA81 and EA82 non turbo or efi. Lucky for you if you can actually get higher comp 1600 pistons. Another reason why this baby might scream is not got a rear wheel drive section to lug about .... Edited September 1, 2015 by jono 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 1600 pistons ARE EA71 pistons. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 A lot of the things done to this motor, Decked heads, EA71 Pistons etc. Can be found in this write-up. Along with regrinding the cam and ignition improvements. http://www.subarubrat.com/engine.htm There is also an old topic about this same thing on USMB, Rick (GeneralDisorder) laid down some decent information about all this as well in the thread. But I cannot seem to find it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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