ford'ssubaru's Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Isolate your alternator. Just connect your battery + charge wire. The T connector has two wires. The top part of the T is ignition hot or excite wire. Connect a hot wire directly to the top part of the T to battery. Check out put of alternator at alternator with battery connected to positive and not. Be careful. Also be sure that your grounds are good and making contact. Block to body, block to battery. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) I had the voltage regulator and the charge light wires mixed up So now its not reading 18 volts but now all the accessories( lights, turn signals, heater fan, etc) work regardless of the key position even if the key is not in and the parking brake light stays on at all times. EDIT:(never mind not sure if i really fixed it yet) Edited September 21, 2015 by Tye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 virgin switch on top of steering column? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 (edited) virgin switch on top of steering column? nope double checked that, that's not the problem everything accessory related was working fine until i got the alternator wired up properly EDIT:(might not have alternator fixed yet) Edited September 21, 2015 by Tye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 Does anyone know how to decipher this, what does alt 1 and alt 2 mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 I am mostly wondering what alt 1 and alt 2 mean I think the B is ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Is that image from a FSM? I'd need to see the entire schematic for the engine electrical system to try to interpret what's what. There's too much missing in that small image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Is that image from a FSM? I'd need to see the entire schematic for the engine electrical system to try to interpret what's what. There's too much missing in that small image. yes it is from a 1992 Subaru legacy fsm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Judging by the schematic and the legend. W is constant battery voltage. Y is your ignition battery voltage or excite wire. BW sais other current....... Try leaving that disconnected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share Posted September 26, 2015 Judging by the schematic and the legend. W is constant battery voltage. Y is your ignition battery voltage or excite wire. BW sais other current....... Try leaving that disconnected. so i did have it right the alternator from Napa, was another bad one this time i got one from Oreilly it was good and fixed the 18 volts problem thanks everyone for all the help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Well did it fix the original problem? Don't leave us hanging?....LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 Well did it fix the original problem? Don't leave us hanging?....LOL. yes i believe it now fires from all cylinders although it has developed a rough/surging idle on start up and will randomly die when put into nuetral also their is a noticeable lack of power,less power than the ea82 i had before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 also their is a noticeable lack of power,less power than the ea82 i had before. check the timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 check the timing. i double checked it and its all good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 Could it maybe be a sensor causing both problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 also i noticed it was still running quite rich I just replaced the o2 sensor about a week ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 surging idle sound slike a vac leak. check your vac hoses, make sure there are no vac hose nipples on the intake with no hose attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 surging idle sound slike a vac leak. check your vac hoses, make sure there are no vac hose nipples on the intake with no hose attached. The surging idle was caused by the idle air control valve, although the power is still really bad will recheck the timing belt tomorrow just to make sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 does it have a knock sensor? is it good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 does it have a knock sensor? is it good? Not sure, haven't looked yet I decided to pull my injectors and have them rebuilt, also I cleaned out the idle air control valve. I will definitely check that next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) OK this is where I am at right now. I replaced the knock sensor and had the fuel injectors rebuilt, although their is still a lack of power.its indeed most likely the timing belt From looking at it, the timing belt doesn't seem off. here are some pictures of the timing marks, They all seem to line up Edited October 10, 2015 by Tye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 here is a video i made, it may make it easier to tell. I am giving it full throttle when i was accelerating at 1:30 I accelerate in second gear at 15 mph https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGAfQquFEXY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) unless.......the power I am experiencing is what the ej is supposed to put out although it seems very sluggish Edited October 10, 2015 by Tye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tye Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 I forgot to mention that i got only about 6 miles per gallon on the last fill up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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