nrwphoto Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 I recently bought an 87' GL Wagon with 118,000 miles that appears to be in excellent condition accept it leaks oil. In the last 140 miles since I bought it I have seen just how bad. It has lubricated the exhaust and fumigated the car and neighborhood with 1/2 qt so far. It looks like it is leaking from the head gaskets with a lesser amount coming from the valve covers and left cam shaft seal. How serious a problem do you think this is other than just carrying extra oil to top it off? I just moved and I have had 2 cars die on me completely. So I am to broke to pull the motor and go through it. Also the oil pressure gauge keeps going from good pressure to 0 for long periods of time. However the motor does not run hot, continues to run smooth and quiet and by the constant oil loss I figure it still has pressure to push it out. So I replaced the oil pressure switch (sensor) to no change. Any ideas on if it's the gauge or a bad connection? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Welcome! An '87 GL Wagon must have the EA82 engine in USA, so that explains the low oil pressure readings, the gauge at the instrument cluster is not accurate and those engines has low oil pressure at idle... If you don't have the money for resealing the engine, I've seen certain chemical products that helps to stop leaks on oil, by soften the dry, shrunk seals... maybe a good quality oil additive "Stop Leak" might help your Subie's engine to not leak that much, however, it might not work; especially if the seals are torn. I had luck with a Gearbox seal, I used a small bottle of QMi "Stop Leak" and had worked for years... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 The fluctuating oil pressure could indicate the oil pump gasket is failing. I'd at least plumb in an oil pressure gauge to verify if I have or have not oil pressure. Oil leaks will be the lest of your problems when the engine locks up from lack of oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 It is normal for the oil pressure to be low at idle when hot. The leaks from the head gaskets, cam carrier,and cam seals are normal for the age and miles. Time for a reseal, but it's not a problem to keep driving, just a mess with the drips everywhere you park. It also slows rust under the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nrwphoto Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Yes it is the EA82. I will have to look into the engine seal additives. I do know that acetone swells many rubber gaskets. I have used it a few times when I can't find a replacement to something I am working on. But I have never poured it in an engine. A secondary oil gauge is not a bad idea. I have read about the oil pressure being low at idle, but this is while driving down the road at 45mph in 4th (for example). I ended up driving 30 miles to get home reading 0 yesterday. I pulled over once it happened to check the motor. Had oil and when started sounded fine. So I took it easy the whole way home. It popped up to 50 psi once and then dropped again quickly. My senses tell me the engine is getting oil, but that stupid gauge is making me paranoid! I am used to running 15w40 and 20w50 down in warm Phoenix, AZ for decades. I was wondering about doing an oil change to a heavier weight to see if that slows the leaks. But winter is coming and I don't know how well these motors crank with 20w50 when it's 0 F outside. Good/Bad idea? Edited September 18, 2015 by nrwphoto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 It's very likely the oil pressure sending unit on the oil pump is either corroded, bad or just plain dirty. Clean it off and see what happens. You're obviously getting decent oil pressure or you'd know it by now! As long as you keep oil in it, change the oil faithfully, and never, ever, under any circumstances, let it overheat, that engine will keep going nearly forever. In MT, we recommend 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer. Also, using either a Subaru Genuine oil filter or NAPA Gold for protection on start up. Emily 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 You don't have anything to worry about. You used half a quart over how many miles of driving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) It may well not be the actual sender that is the problem but a bad earth or connection in the instrument cluster or between the sender and the dash something quite common as wiring ages over the years.\Generally it will be at the connectors or where they are crimped as the wiring on these older model cars is much heavier gauge than late model vehicles where cost cutting and supposed weight savings rule the roost. There will not be too many late model vehicles that will be saveable thirty odd years down the track. Edited September 18, 2015 by coxy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) There will not be too many late model vehicles that will be saveable thirty odd years down the track. you can actually see the "gap" already, and its just going to keep growing, lots of 1996-2001 vehicles are gone. but when you get a new aftermarket gauge to test wether if its the pump or the gauge, theres 2 types, theres the one with the long skinny tube that literally carries oil to the gauge ($15) and if that breaks... well lets just say you woun't like it, digital ones like the one in your Subaru are a bit more ($30) but i think its worth it. i've heard that you can actually rent a gauge to screw in on the pump itself at autozone, obviously you're going to have to be upside down to see what its measuring, but it'll atleast tell you that the pump is good. Edited September 18, 2015 by Subasaurus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 you can actually see the "gap" already, and its just going to keep growing, lots of 1996-2001 vehicles are gone... [Thread Hijack] I know the reason, the Laws regarding pollution and contamination prevention, forced the Car makers to use "Biodegradable" Plastics in most areas of the Cars, those Plastics are intended to have a lifespan of maximum ten years, depending on the environment and climate conditions where the cars have to work; so you'll notice that even the Plugs on the wiring systems of the cars from that era, are Disintegrating and Crumbling randomly, making huge fails, one by one, making the owners to get rid of their continously failing cars, as soon as possible. While the Plugs on my '85 Subaru are still Solid and even Shiny like New... Kind Regards. [/Thread Hijack] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 You are not wrong there Jesek, Even the latest Oil spec reduces the ZDDP zinc phosphorus anti wear additive in engine oil under the latest standard so catalytic converter life is extended at the expense of engine life. That is why so many with high performance models such as Evo Lancers and WRX's have taken to using Motorcycle specific oils. They not only have higher anti wear additive packages than modern car specific oils but because the viscosity index improvers when seen under an electron microscope resemble a microscopic nylon clock spring that expands when heated thus thickening the oil and those things do not like living with gears such as the modern motorcycle engine contains because one oil does both engine and gearbox plus wet clutch duties they had to refine the base oil further to gain the heat resistant benefits normally supplied with cheaper VI packages that do not survive well in Motorcycle engines. The VI improvers often make their presence known when oils are not changed often enough as when you drain the oil a sludgy goop comes out first then thinner dirty black oil the sludgy goop is the mashed up VI nylon clock springs that get chewed up and coagulate in the bottom of the sump. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nrwphoto Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 you can actually see the "gap" already, and its just going to keep growing, lots of 1996-2001 vehicles are gone. That is actually why I bought the GL. I have a 98' Jeep Cherokee that I have about $5000 in upgrades on over the past couple of years. Electrical gremlins have been popping up over the last year and while on the trailer from AZ to MT during my recent move the wiring harness fried. So now I have an expensive paper weight sitting out front until I decide what to do with it. Thinking of buying an older Cherokee with a 5 spd and swapping my stuff over to it. Either way I hope this Subaru holds up for me. It's to nice and clean a car to let sit and rot. But if the motor heads south that might be what happens. I am flat broke after the move and now unable to find work. Unemployed for the last 5 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.