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espey_16

Rough idle, & check engine light.

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Hey guys I'm back. I've been driving the car for quite some time with it throwing it's little fits and still can't figure out what's going on. I bought a timing light tonight to check that, but can't find any solid info on how to correctly check it. I've read that I have to unplug the vacuum advance from the disty and plug it, and connect the 2 green wires under the hood. Well my dusty has an electrical connector going to it, no vacuum line. And when I connect the green wires the car dies. It will start up with them connected but die if I'm not on the gas. I tried to see what it's set at by pointing the light at the flywheel without the green wires connected and I can't even see the timing marks.

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I see the timing marks now, they're not coming all the way out to the pointer on the bell housing if that makes any sense. They are in the passenger side of the bell housing. Is it safe to adjust the disty without the green wires connected? I read in another post 20* BTDC, is this correct?

Edited by espey_16

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I adjusted it down to 20* BTDC and it seems to be ok for the most part. I didn't have to pump the gas just to leave from a stop, and it only shuddered a couple times on my test drive. When it does what it does, the gas pedal becomes in responsive and I have to push in the clutch and pump the gas to get the car back to normal. Much improved though since I adjusted the timing. I'm gonna go a little more and take another drive and report my findings.

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SPFI does not have vacuum lines to the disty.

 

IIRC, the green connectors HAVE to be connected to tell the ECU to not mess with the timing when you set the distributor position.  Trying to set it with the connectors not connected, will not give a proper setting.

 

If the timing is that messed up, it's not the adjustment, you need to verify all the timing marks are correctly positioned as if replacing the timing belts.

 

I've been running EA82s since 1988.  Several different cars.  Almost never had to touch the distributor position.  Never had to move it more than a few degrees from the original position.  Even after replacing head gaskets and timing belts.

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I'm not sure if the individual lines are 1 or 2 degree increments, but I've got it 2 lines before 20* BTDC and there's no change. The shudder is better than before, but not gone. The disty is maxed out on adjustment also, so I'm curious if the previous owner had it pulled for whatever reason.

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SPFI does not have vacuum lines to the disty.

 

IIRC, the green connectors HAVE to be connected to tell the ECU to not mess with the timing when you set the distributor position.  Trying to set it with the connectors not connected, will not give a proper setting.

 

If the timing is that messed up, it's not the adjustment, you need to verify all the timing marks are correctly positioned as if replacing the timing belts.

 

I've been running EA82s since 1988.  Several different cars.  Almost never had to touch the distributor position.  Never had to move it more than a few degrees from the original position.  Even after replacing head gaskets and timing belts.

Shortly after I bought the car I thought the belts might be off a tooth or two but I checked and they're right on. The previous owner also had them replaced right before I bought it.

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It was 7 months before I bought the car that the belts were replaced. What could cause the car to die when I plug the green connectors together?

Edited by espey_16

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You cannot adjust the distributor / timing with the connectors not connected, the ECU will make adjustments, and the reading is not correct.

 

If the distributor is way off position, it may have been installed with it's gear off a tooth or 2, or have some internal problem.

 

There may be a picture somewhere showing the rotor position for TDC of #1 cylinder, I'd want to verify that.  Check for play, etc..

 

I have not seen a case where connecting the green test mode wires caused the engine to die,  that's weird.

 

I checked the timing marks on one of my flex plates - I have 3AT cars, no clutches.  It has marks that are 2 degree increments.  Determined by the 10 mark and the 20 mark, that have actual numbers, and the four tick marks between them.

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I guess I'll have a friend keep the car running while the green wires are connected and I'll recheck the timing this weekend, and if it's that bad pull the disty and set it properly.

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Car won't respond to the gas pedal when the test wires are connected at all. Not sure what's going on.

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That is not working right either.

 

If it were in my garage.  I'd double / triple check all the timing stuff, and the added things I mentioned above.  Then the CTS - that can fail and not cause a code, and make very hard to start.

 

If it is running really rough, only wants to run above idle with partial throttle, that also I have seen with 1 cam mistimed or a pair of plug wires swapped.  Maybe a big [but would be hard to miss] vacuum leak.

 

IF everything is correct, the normal timing adjustment range the distributor allows will effect fuel economy, power, knocking, etc, but not really make it run rough or smooth.

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I just tried to check my codes again, and the only thing it's doing is blinking 5 times fast indicating a code 5. I looked up the codes but there is no code 5. The car still won't run with the green test mode connectors hooked up also. It'll fire up then die even if I pump the gas.

Edited by espey_16

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Ok, previous post was with green connectors hooked up. Unhooked I'm still getting 34 and 35, but now 23 comes up as well. I'm about to go to the junk yard and get a couple solenoids for 34 and 35, but I need to look up how to fix 23. I'll report back when I'm done.

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Air flow meter = MAF I'm assuming. The coils or whatever they are, are a little dirty so I'm gonna spray some MAF cleaner on it and see if that works.

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Cleaned the MAF, and car is running at the moment. Code is still there along with egr/purge solenoids. Now I'm getting a 31 throttle sensor code.

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Weird to be getting so many... check the ground wire in the engine harness, it is bolted to the lower part of the thermostat housing. Near the CTS and the temperature gauge sender.

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Well I went to 7 junk yards yesterday and didn't fine anything. So I'm gonna buy some solenoids new.

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