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About a month ago, the engine light came on, gas mileage went down and today, going down the highway the engine quit running. I could smell fuel, but the engine won't start. It turns over, but it won't start. Anyone have any idea as to where I should start looking. I don't have a reader.

 

~Myles~

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check the timing belt - it may have slipped or broken. (when was it changed last?)

 

do you have a smart phone? you can get an elm327 BT adapter and an app to read codes. maybe under $15

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check the timing belt - it may have slipped or broken. (when was it changed last?)

 

do you have a smart phone? you can get an elm327 BT adapter and an app to read codes. maybe under $15

I doubt that it's the timing belt. I changed it three years ago and have put around 27thousand on it. The engine is turning over fine & when I turn it over I can smell fuel. I do have a smart phone, a Samsung note3 android. I'm looking into it now. Thanks for the quick response. I'll keep you posted.

~Buzzcon~

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yeah, look for the fre-version of the Torque app.

 

crank sensor could be bad - no spark means lots of unburnt fuel.

 

it would be unusual for all the plug wires or the coil to be so bad there isn't any firing at all.

 

getting the code read could help a lot.

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yeah, look for the fre-version of the Torque app.

 

crank sensor could be bad - no spark means lots of unburnt fuel.

 

it would be unusual for all the plug wires or the coil to be so bad there isn't any firing at all.

 

getting the code read could help a lot.

I borrowed an Actron AutoScanner. from a guy I work with. I'll hook it up this weekend and hope to find what's going on and pray that it's something I'm capable of fixing.  :(  

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yeah, look for the fre-version of the Torque app.

 

crank sensor could be bad - no spark means lots of unburnt fuel.

 

it would be unusual for all the plug wires or the coil to be so bad there isn't any firing at all.

 

getting the code read could help a lot.

I got 5 codes; some of them repeat themselves. Here they are : P0340, P1130, P1133, P0340, P1133. I don't know if the repeats mean anything or not. I've tried to find the codes. I thought that I read that someone posted them, but I can't find them, if that's true. So anyone that has an info would be a big help. I forgot to say that the exhaust had a sweet smell to it, before the engine quit running. When I replaced the timing belt, I replaced everything. That was done at 80,000 and now it has a 116,000 miles.

 

Thanks, in advance for any & all help. ~Myles~

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2 of those codes point to a problem with the O2 sensor (front or 'main') and the 0340 is a cam position sensor.

 

You may have more that one problem but, with the cam pos code - one more reason to triple-check cam/crank timing.

 

If you smelled something sweet - like toasted marshmallows, in the exhaust - I suppose it's possible a coolant leak nto a cylinder led to 'poisoning' the O2 sensor.

 

I hope someone else with more experience will chime in. i suspect you will need to pin-down whether or not you have a headgasket leak or some odd way coolant is getting into the exhaust (sometimes, pulling plugs and comparing will find the bad cylinder as the coolant makes the plug look different). If that isn't addressed , you might destroy the next O2 sensor. Worth looking for wiring problems too - pinched or chewed cables or bad ground connections will sometimes cause multiple codes to be set.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
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2 of those codes point to a problem with the O2 sensor (front or 'main') and the 0340 is a cam position sensor.

 

You may have more that one problem but, with the cam pos code - one more reason to triple-check cam/crank timing.

 

If you smelled something sweet - like toasted marshmallows, in the exhaust - I suppose it's possible a coolant leak nto a cylinder led to 'poisoning' the O2 sensor.

 

I hope someone else with more experience will chime in. i suspect you will need to pin-down whether or not you have a headgasket leak or some odd way coolant is getting into the exhaust (sometimes, pulling plugs and comparing will find the bad cylinder as the coolant makes the plug look different). If that isn't addressed , you might destroy the next O2 sensor. Worth looking for wiring problems too - pinched or chewed cables or bad ground connections will sometimes cause multiple codes to be set.

okay, so here it is; I've got a broken timing belt; after 36,000 miles, but it was an aftermarket belt, so maybe I got what I deserved. <_< Since this is a close tolerance motor, is there a way to see if the valves are bent, without tearing it all apart? When i put the belt on, I replaced everything, so I shouldn't have to do it all again. I don't have a garage, so I've been looking into repair shops, but I can't find anyone that I trust or can afford to do the work. I can do the work, and have done it before, but it's hard to find a day that it's not raining.                                                                   

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No easy way to tell if the valves are bent other than putting a new T-belt on. 

Get it timed correctly with a new belt.  Turn the engine over by hand to make sure you have not damaged anything to bad.  If it turns free start it up. 

 

If it's running well, a valve may still have a slight bend.  Go back to the exhaust and put a dollar bill with in a half inch of the exhaust pipe.  If it ever sucks back to the exhaust pipe you have a bent valve most likely.

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bummer

 

in a new thread, post you city and ask for a shop recommendation near you. maybe someone will know of a good mechanic.

Thanks, will do. I haven't had anyone else work on any of my cars, before so I'm a bit paranoid.

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I got 5 codes; some of them repeat themselves. Here they are : P0340, P1130, P1133, P0340, P1133. I don't know if the repeats mean anything or not. I've tried to find the codes. I thought that I read that someone posted them, but I can't find them, if that's true. So anyone that has an info would be a big help. I forgot to say that the exhaust had a sweet smell to it, before the engine quit running. When I replaced the timing belt, I replaced everything. That was done at 80,000 and now it has a 116,000 miles.

 

Thanks, in advance for any & all help. ~Myles~

I'm back...I replaced the broken belt and I had a bad idoler pulley, which I also replaced. (This time with dealer parts) The cams turn okay so I timed it with the belt (all lines at 12 o'clock high) and I tried to start it; it fired on 1cylinder, one time and the engine sounds like it's too advanced, like on an old v8. Checked timing again, and the timing marks were off so I retimed it. Cranked the engine over with a rachet & the timing marks didn't line back up, like it's slipping. Any ideas? or am I doing this wrong? Any help is appreciated.

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The white marks on the belt wont line up again for another 100+ revolutions of the engine. Need to pay attention to the dash marks on the pulleys, NOT the belt. 

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make sure to NOT use the triangle/arrow on the front of the crank sprocket. MUST use the dash/line on the tab at the back.

 

I suppose a weak tensioner could allow slipping, seems like you'd see/hear something when you cranked it over by hand ????

 

timing marks on pulleys and tooth-count are your friends. marks on belts are only a guide for initial placement.

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make sure to NOT use the triangle/arrow on the front of the crank sprocket. MUST use the dash/line on the tab at the back.

 

I suppose a weak tensioner could allow slipping, seems like you'd see/hear something when you cranked it over by hand ????

 

timing marks on pulleys and tooth-count are your friends. marks on belts are only a guide for initial placement.

Thanks. I think I did it that way, but I'm going to check it again. I won't be able to get to it till the weekend, so till then I'm driving my wife's '86 gl sedan

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