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6 lug redrill wheel/tire combos


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I know a lot of us redrill to get bigger tires for offroading. I'm wondering if anyone has done this to get a more onroad performance type tire? I need to get the puny 13" wheels off my 87.5 XT GL.

 

The main question i have is, how big in overall diameter/width can i go? I see some nice gm/toyota 17"&18" wheels out there for decent money. I know with 18"s i'd end up with like 30-35 series tires, but im ok with that. I also know from my FWD xt6 that 205/55-16 is at the max, but thats a different animal altogether.

 

If anyone can help me out before i spend big $$$ on r&d I'd appreciate it!

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Lifted ? Unlifted on a Brumby (BRAT) I could squeeze 15's in with 205/50 tyres but it was tight. Anything bigger than 15's is really overkill on a car like an L-series.

 

I'm running XT6 / EJ now and am running stock 1st-gen WRX 15" wheels but am upgrading to 16" to fit 4-pot WRX brakes. These will be running 195/50 tyres, which also just about work out OEM rolling diameter so my speedo is accurate (within 1%).

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The nice thing about 6 lugs is you have so many options, I know I've seen pictures of an ea82 with 17's and it looked pretty good. I suppose you could go all the way to a 20" but your sidewall will only be a couple inches. I was going to run 245/40/17's on an EA82 sedan project and from what I measured out, they would have worked fine. The wheels were 17" 6 lug aftermarket chrome yukon wheels and yes, they were going to stick out a ways. I never got the wheels on the car because other projects had priority and I needed cash. 

 

 

 

Josh

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I ask about offset chux because i can measure a 15" 5x100 wheel i have off the car, but at the moment, i dont have a 4x140 off the car.

I'll throw a tape on both this weekend, and report back.

 

Mainly, i'm trying to decide if im gonna redrill to 6x140, 5x100 or 4x100. 5x100 sounds good, but getting lugs to not interfere with one another could be a challenge. 4x100 sounds good because cheap honda rims lol. 6x140 sounds good for being easier, and more sure wheel centering.

Edited by crazyhorse001
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Ok then, is the offset on the 4x140 the same as the 5x100?

 lug pattern has nothing to do with offset. offset is gonna vary between most cars. for instance i can find 6x140 pattern nissan wheels that have a near identical offset to the stock 4x140 wagon wheel rims off my car and i can find same lug pattern with a ton more offset to where id have limited turning but its the same rim size. 6x140 is id think your only option if your gonna redrill. no room for any other pattern to properly fit on the hubs. anything other than that youll need an adapter plate

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 lug pattern has nothing to do with offset. offset is gonna vary between most cars. for instance i can find 6x140 pattern nissan wheels that have a near identical offset to the stock 4x140 wagon wheel rims off my car and i can find same lug pattern with a ton more offset to where id have limited turning but its the same rim size. 6x140 is id think your only option if your gonna redrill. no room for any other pattern to properly fit on the hubs. anything other than that youll need an adapter plate

I was going to say something similar.  Hub / bolt pattern has nothing to do with offset.  You can get all kinds of bolt patterns in all kinds of offsets.

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I did a lot of reading on this a while back.
My notes say toyota pickup / 4 runner rims should work.
And 205-70-15 is the largest tire that will fit with out a lift.

Here is what it looks like.


post-54979-0-01054800-1456793321_thumb.jpg

Hits the front fender. And there is no room for wheel travel, because the tire sits out too far.
This toyota rim has 85mm back space.
Stock is 125 mm back space.

So some where I assumed something out got mixed up.

 

Anyone have measurements on other 6 bolt rims they used?

Edited by coronan
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Answering my own question.

post-54979-0-22495800-1456884653_thumb.jpg

 

Looks like I do not have a toyota rim. Looks to be more like a Blazer rim. Converting to inches the stock rim has a 4.92" back space.

 

Credit to where i found the chart. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157063-max-tire-size/?hl=wheel

 

Using a couple of resources a Mitsubishi Pajero First Gen (1982 - 1991)  uses a wheel 15 x 7 back space of 4.8 Offset +20mm 

Sources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Pajero

 

http://www.wheel-size.com/

 

https://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

Edited by coronan
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"Mainly, i'm trying to decide if im gonna redrill to 6x140, 5x100 or 4x100"
 

There's a reason people redrill to 6x139.7 - you can use two of the bolts from the 4x140 pattern as part of the 6x139.7 pattern, which locates the wheel so the new holes you drill are centered. If you're going to drill for any other pattern you need a plan for how to center the pattern on the hub. I've done the 6x139.7 redrill, an EJ22 swap, a homemade lift, and I'm about to tackle a transmission swap, rear disc brake conversion, and EA82 suspension swap, but trying to drill a 5x100 or 4x100 pattern is not something I'd want to try; that sounds way sketch.

Edited by musubk
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You haven't thought about a redrill for 4x114.3?

Search JesZek's (Loyale 2.7 turbo), he did a write up on this.

 

This pattern fits on the existing hubs, and doesn't interfere with the 4 bolts that locate the front brake rotors, and has a lot more options for wheel sizes.

 

17s on a Loyale look comical. Got a Vortex (XT) out the front I'm stripping for a mate which has 17s & 5 lug swap. It looks better (but not low enough :P)

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I'm working on an XT, so i need more back space to get the whee/tire up into the rear wheel well.

 

For the moment, i've bought new 185/60-13's to give me time to work out what i need to do. I kinda wanted to have bigger wheels, and performance rubber on it before the dragon meet in june.

 

I can have our plant machinist lay out any lug pattern i like on my hubs. A 5lug swap is gonna be difficult as my XT is fwd, so im up against uber rare fwd XT6 parts.

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I'm just wondering, why cant you knock out all the lugs of the 4 x140 and then see what lug is in the way of the 5x100 to fit and weld it up and machine it flat to be able to drill to the pattern you need? I asked a machinist and he said there is plenty of material to be strong and to fit properly. Then you don't have to change any of the running gear.

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I'm just wondering, why cant you knock out all the lugs of the 4 x140 and then see what lug is in the way of the 5x100 to fit and weld it up and machine it flat to be able to drill to the pattern you need? I asked a machinist and he said there is plenty of material to be strong and to fit properly. Then you don't have to change any of the running gear.

 

As I recall, there is not nearly enough flat material at that smaller diameter (the hub recesses considerably for the 4 rotor bolts) for a 5-lug pattern. Doable with a 4-lug, as it can be located directly in between the rotor bolts, but not 5.

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I've got a loyale with isussu rodeo rims running 195 60 15s with no triming and no rubbing and the wheels don't stick out of the fenders my friend has a gl10 with a 2" leaveling blocks  he used adaptors to run 17s on that rig if the adaptors weren't so thick the wheel wouldn't stick out he swaped back to 15s and and it looks a lot better a pic of the gl10 on 17s 120151107_080602_zpsomdwifo0.jpg

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I thought the same thing Numbchux, that there wasn't enough material but the machinist said that it was plenty. As a matter of fact he had been doing what I was asking years ago to his rigs, changing out lug pattern and re-drilling. I thought you needed to weld up the old holes for strength and then drill the new hole in the area that you welded but he explained it wasn't necessary. There is enough material for the strength and for the purpose of keeping the wheel centered on the hub. I am really tempted to find some extra hubs and test this out because I would like to be able to swap to 5x100 without having to find all these other parts.

 

Oh by the way ferp420, nice subaru. See that is what I am going for, maybe not 17's but it is nice to see that the subie even looks great with 17's. Nice job.

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So some info you for guys; I mentioned welding up the hub and redrilling..... Well I talked to a machinist and D.O.T. say no welding on hubs. You can redrill if material is sufficient but no welding. So, it looks I will be doing the hub redrill to 6 lug. I was just trying to stay all Subaru so all my wheels and tire combos fit all my rigs. Now I will have a 6 lug black sheep. Ha Ha

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I got aluminum montero rims.  It needs a different style lug nut.  

The kind with a long shoulder.

 

611-108-006.jpg

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/611108/02988.oap?year=1994&make=Mitsubishi&model=Montero&vi=1207808&ck=Search_wheel+lug+nut_1207808_3466&keyword=wheel+lug+nut

 

But the thread count is wrong.

Mitsubishi uses 12 x 1.5mm thread pitch

Subaru uses 12 x 1.25 

 

I dont want to change my studs to 1.5 because i just purchased several 1.25's and tacked them in. 

 

A similar style is available for the Subaru

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/611107/02988.oap?year=1984&make=Subaru&model=Brat&vi=1267736&ck=Search_wheel+lug+nut_1267736_3466&keyword=wheel+lug+nut

 

And is what came with my Brat.  But the shoulder diameter is 17.3mm on the brat lug nut.

The hole on the new Montero rim is 18.5mm

 

I'm not sure it's a tight enough fit for the rim to mount bolt centric.  Seems likely to mount up off center.

The info at oriley's and napa does not tell the shoulder diameter.  

This is important when the center bore of the rim is larger.  The hub no longer locates the rim.  The bolts need to.

 

It going to take a trip to the store or 2 to get figured out.

Edited by coronan
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I got aluminum montero rims.  It needs a different style lug nut.  

The kind with a long shoulder.

 

611-108-006.jpg

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/611108/02988.oap?year=1994&make=Mitsubishi&model=Montero&vi=1207808&ck=Search_wheel+lug+nut_1207808_3466&keyword=wheel+lug+nut

 

But the thread count is wrong.

Mitsubishi uses 12 x 1.5mm thread pitch

Subaru uses 12 x 1.25 

 

I dont want to change my studs to 1.5 because i just purchased several 1.25's and tacked them in. 

 

A similar style is available for the Subaru

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/611107/02988.oap?year=1984&make=Subaru&model=Brat&vi=1267736&ck=Search_wheel+lug+nut_1267736_3466&keyword=wheel+lug+nut

 

And is what came with my Brat.  But the shoulder diameter is 17.3mm on the brat lug nut.

The hole on the new Montero rim is 18.5mm

 

I'm not sure it's a tight enough fit for the rim to mount bolt centric.  Seems likely to mount up off center.

The info at oriley's and napa does not tell the shoulder diameter.  

This is important when the center bore of the rim is larger.  The hub no longer locates the rim.  The bolts need to.

 

It going to take a trip to the store or 2 to get figured out.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-NISSAN-MAG-LUG-NUTS-12X1-25-FITS-MOST-NISSAN-INFINITI-OEM-WHEELS-/161990333202?hash=item25b7605312:g:Tx4AAOSwKtVW0O0u&vxp=mtr

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Thanks for the link numbchux!

That a great price on ebay!

 

Can you measure your lug nuts for me?

Should be 18.4mm dia of the shoulder?

NO more than 13mm long on the shoulder?

 

I looked through the doman catalog.  

611-119.1 should work.

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