Bratmobile Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 My 86 Brat broke down a few weeks ago & had it towed home. It turns over fine, but will not start. A few details: It had run out of gas completely a few weeks earlier. Could the debris/sediment in the tank have gotten "concentrated" because of the low fuel level and the fuel lines became clogged? Also, the night it broke down it was about 15 degrees out, so my initial thought was a frozen fuel line. Since the weather has warmed up (72 today) I've tried restarting a few times but again, turns over but does not start. Also wanted to know if there is a simple, for sure way to know if the fuel pump is bad. Obviously I'm a bit of a novice mechanic, so any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance~ Bratmobile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body or carb for 1 to 2 seconds. crank. Does it fire for a few seconds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 You can try rapping on the fuel pump with something like a screwdriver handle. Then try restarting. May need to repeat a few times. If it starts, then the fuel pump is bad. If it doesn't start the fuel pump may still be bad, but it is a easy cheap test. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapidfire10ring Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 One way to check if the fuel pump is to disconned the fuel line to the carb.throttle body/ injector from the fuel FILTER. If it squirts fuel past the filter it is working. Otherwise it might be a two person job, one near the fuel pump (you could even disconnect AFTER the fuel pump) towards the engine and see if it makes both the pumping sound and squirts fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 i just remove the fuel line in the engine bay and crank - if fuel comes out the pump is working. pull a plug wire and check for spark. do those two things and you learned a lot in less than 15 minutes diagnosis. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 when it broke down did it just shut off. ? check that the disty is turning. if it isn't the timing belt broke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bratmobile Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Here's an update~ Fuel is not being delivered to the carb. Starter fluid into the carb makes no difference either. Changed out plugs just to be sure nothing was fouled. Spark is good, as is the distributor. Also~ when ignition is turned on( not far enough to start the car, just enough to turn on accessories) a clicking sound came from behind the drivers side under the bed. This is where I found the fuel pump and it is the source of the sound (which it never made before) My guess at this point~ replace the fuel pump. Agreed? Thanks for the input so far!~ Bratmobile Any recommendations on a fuel pump supplier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Usually (in my experience anyway) an engine with everything correct except no fuel will fire for a second or few on carb cleaner or starting fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bratmobile Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Thanks for the input thus far~ Life's been busy so I'm just now able to give an update: When turning on ignition the fuel pump sounded different than before~ a chattering/less smooth of a sound, so I changed it out for a new one. Result: Turns over but does not start, same as before. Finally took the advice given in earlier posts: Checked that the Distributor spins when attempting to start, and it does. Checking for spark at the plugs (screw driver shorting to ground method) and ...no spark. I will do some additional simple checks today (hazard/flash fuse mentioned in another no start post) If there are any other recommendations please feel free to share~ I have a new ignition coil that I'm putting in as well. I don't mind changing out some of these items as the cost and my own labor hasn't been too bad so far. Distributor might be next. Plan on hitting this hard this afternoon. Any pointers are much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zmarrott Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) i ran empty in my brat a week or two ago and after that it was always sputtering under load. replaced the filters and pump and no more fuel issue. i had the original pump and i believe filters (car was treated like crap before me), so it didnt surprise me at all that running it empty fouled up something. you probably just got a worse case of what i had, so id bet at least a new pump, or somehow cleaning out your current pump will help. got mine for about $55 at orielys. for the no spark, coil as you said is my first place to look. the soda can coils ive seen can go bad quick sometimes. worst case senario the pick-up coil or something in the distributor whent bad so its not telling the ignition coil to fire correctly. Edited April 4, 2016 by zmarrott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bratmobile Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 Fuel pump and ignition coil are both changed out for new now. I also (unnecessarily) pulled the distributor, and now that it's time to put it back in...but ... I didn't mark it's position when I took it out. I'm a novice mechanic with most repairs, so (correct me if I'm wrong). I need to get cylinder 1 on TDC and then spin the distributor to match that in the firing order. (rotor hitting the #1 cylinder in the distributor cap) Correct? Let me know if this sounds right, and if you have specific pointers to keep me from screwing this up. (Once I'm done, the hope is that my "turns over but won't start" issue will be gone as well) Thanks in advance! Bratmobile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 This may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrsn Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 I did the same with my distributor. The 'How to Keep Your Subaru Alive' manual has a great description and illustration on how to reset. But yes, TDC on cyl. #1, align gear at bottom of dist. with tick mark on dist. shaft, install and ensure dist. is pointing at cyl. #1 spark plug cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bratmobile Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 Thanks for the help thus far~ Life is too busy to spend much time towards this~ But here's an update: No spark from the ignition coil. IGN fuse blows when attempting to start. Guessing there is a short somewhere. Not certain if there is a wiring diagram that details all connections at the ignition coil. A few nearby wires/connectors are homeless. Any diagrams/images of the correct wiring here would be much appreciated. Also, talking with my retired mechanic neighbor, he said to be sure I don't have the distributor spun 180 out. I'll be checking this soon as well. Thanks in advance! Bratmobile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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