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'01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build


scalman
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how VDC cuts engine power and car just not moving anywhere. it looks just helpless there if you come it slowly and try to pass some holes... see my wheels have some grip and front wheel have all grip there but VDC is not enough to figure out that and give there more power... or its just that H4 engine here is lacking power ... would H6 3.0 work there better i wonder 

 

 

it does good job to not dig down deeper sure but car not moving too. well without momentum its not. im finding there that is kinda engine rev problem as if i give it more revs before that place its jumps over it , but if i strat from low revs then its like dead horse not going anywhere. 

Edited by scalman
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did it on 1st gear locked, it just needs more revs then VDC more happy . but could be my engine on low revs have some problems maybe too , because i have O2 sensor errors on catalyst , not sure if thats related but engine sounds like it missing something on low revs. 

 

tried same place with 2 pedals style . wondered if it would go better like holding brake pedal with right leg and same time raising revs to about 3k and letting go brake . i thought VDC would get better kick maybe but its still not low gear as car with low gear would just drive here from stop no problem. not subaru though. but doing with pedals brought some results sure and it feels better inside more punchy still if its not enough to climb then its not enough and its just sits there. and now everytime i drive there im making that part of track worse and worse well better for myself i mean haha. i dug allready many halls there so its harder to drive there up hill now . but its nice at least some chalange and its not hurting anyone its not road for use anyway just has some interesting climbing angles and turns

 

Edited by scalman
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  • 3 weeks later...

another trip about 900km like half round country 3 days first day to lakes . sleep there , second day long day driving to sea about 500km , sleep there, 3rd day enjoy sea and back home

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found camper monster there too from germany . thats like ultimate camper go anywhere camp on endge of world style 

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guess thats why you need those trailing arm spacers too with strut spacers in rear for those models to make those links return to straight possition , because without it they suffer more. they all bended to one side like all time when car sits on wheels on its weight their still in this possition. some hold long but some like lower one with camber bolt just goes out faster. 

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Edited by scalman
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  • 3 weeks later...
9 hours ago, pontoontodd said:

Do you know what that structure used to be?

russians build it for strategic reasons in 1893 , started using it at 1906 . then it was no need anymore so they wanted to destroy it with explosives but it was just build too strong , later germans tried to destroy it too couldnt manage. But sea did it better , so they just colapsed to sea. 

they go for about 5km across beach. there is more building in forest and all city around was strategic place back then. 

more info about that all city there

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karosta

 

it has some left submarine garage , cant visit there

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Edited by scalman
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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, scalman said:

Any ideas is that head gaskets or smt else ?

Engine oil goes lower with time

No other liquids goes low just engine well and coolant with time

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How much oil and coolant do you have to add how often?  Liters/1000km?

The oil leak might be valve cover gaskets, can't remember if you said you'd done those recently. 

Does your steering rack leak?  It seems like they usually do.

If it's a liter every few thousand kilometers I would just make sure you keep the oil and coolant topped off.  I'm sure you're tired of me saying this but just keep it full of oil and coolant and keep saving money for a rust free car.

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i didint counted now but when i did euro trip on those 5.5k km i put about 5l oil so was about 1l to 1000km . problem is not that it uses it only that it leaves it on ground where i leave car , even in shop parking places. 

yes i need rust free car i agree. dont have any savings , so my only option take like loan from bank or something and pay then monthly for couple years. thats how we buy here almost all stuff anyway. i did again now one valve cover and i think now its dry not leaking so leak comes from other things so must be head gaskets then. maybe its not worthy do that job if i will need soon other car, but if i would get same model just newer year and maybe 3.0 model i could like use this car as some kind spares ..i duno.. i dont have place to keep extra car anyway so duno . 

i payed for this about 1500 euros i guess. other outback same model maybe newer year maybe with H6 3.0 engine would be maybe 2.5-3k euros now . or take next generation car that would go from 3.5k - 4k euros. but thats kinda a lot money. 

but to get car almost rust free it must be grought back from some country where is not much rust no salt no winter . we have some of those from time to time here too just need to find it . then again would like more power so 3.0 model would be better i guess. and its still good on fuel. would put LPG too. i thought maybe i wanted some grand sherokee similar year for similar price but now i duno, maybe its too costy to keep and if its diesel then its more cost for fuel so i will travel less then. and those monsters with 4.7 engines that takes LPG eats like 20l minimum i guess. 

so im not sure what to do. take another outback, same gen or newer gen ? hmm. newer gen could be 2.5 motor with dual range manual, but that wont have any traction control and im so used to it now . only 3.0 models would have VDC on 3rd gen outback , meaning 2005-2009 and they can cost more. 

forersters not  cheaper and they cost similar bus can be with 2.0 engine only or turbos. and i guess turbos have some problem with manual and no dual range on offroad not best option. and then clutch will get worn fast i guess. and not that long as outback so maybe i wont fit to sleep in back on forester. 

lots of thoughts. what to do. what to buy. my car ending MOT in november too so thats another problem too. 

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So i think this outback is done. That rust got him for good now. I kinda waited when it will brake something serious and it happened..sadly but now im looking for another car probably outback maybe same gen or 3rd gen. Lots 3rd gens 2.5 with manual dual range here. Wonder how it drives and is that low gear any good?

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Welded it to place with some extra metal plates on top so i could drive it to work for now , but its coming to end...it was amazing time my old friend....you served me good. 

For now looking at same gen but 3.0 models with VDC or

3rd gen 2.5 manual dual range

3rd gen 3.0 vdc

Foresters...but i want outback as its bigger better equiped and i liked it traction control.

Grand sherokees WJ / WK. But those would mean like double fuel cost for every drive so i duno , would be cool but lot more cost to travel 4.7 petrols or 2.7 /3.0 diesels

 

Hmm maybe i need to give up and try some forester and see that...but they cost more and i will never find any for that price with any traction control and i doubt turbo models on manual / auto are good for offroading arent they? 

Edited by scalman
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Yup plenty foresters here. Any kind, 2.0 na 2.5 na ,2.0 turbo , xt 2.5 turbo. Just they kinda cost more then outbacks same year but are less equiped less comfy on seats i think, they never will have vdc until 2008 or smt, and i dont need street racer turbo forester. Or manual and burn clutch anytime i go offroad because turbo dont have dual range.

Those angles and lift sure are nice but i dont think i will fit to sleep inside forester rear seats folded...

I think better of 2005 outback manual dual range with 5mt then some older forester even turbo one. That dual range 2.5 outback would have 121kw it should be plenty. And im still considering about that...but then manual i dont know those well , guys from forester club here changing those clutches here like socks. I mean i dont want that.

And that low range isnt that low there isnt it? Like 1:1.2 ration thats not a lot lower, does it feels much better going slow amd climbing ? Wich i could test some cars before buy i mean real like offroad test. 

Wonder how bad that older awd system would be even with manual dual range but in diagonals you left spinning one wheel. 

Put rear locker? Dont want that clicky car all over city on corners and such.

Edited by scalman
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