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'01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build


scalman
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3rd gen outback or 4 gen legacy lifted ? think legacy can look cool lifted too 

xdKPGq2.jpg

 

thinking what option could be better for me , cheaper , and outback struts or spacers can lift that legacy pretty easy i guess. and no i wont be putting my struts on it .. front ones are gone and rear ones.. duno , maybe as my rear self levels seems like working still. so maybe i will keep them. 

because i want 3.0 model there is not much here in country them to buy so i thought i should look then for legacys 3.0 too .. this way more choices. 

Edited by scalman
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9 hours ago, scalman said:

3rd gen outback or 4 gen legacy lifted ? think legacy can look cool lifted too 

xdKPGq2.jpg

 

thinking what option could be better for me , cheaper , and outback struts or spacers can lift that legacy pretty easy i guess. and no i wont be putting my struts on it .. front ones are gone and rear ones.. duno , maybe as my rear self levels seems like working still. so maybe i will keep them. 

because i want 3.0 model there is not much here in country them to buy so i thought i should look then for legacys 3.0 too .. this way more choices. 

Lifting a Legacy wouldn't be too bad if you can get them cheaper or less rusty than an Outback and get the EZ30 that way.  I personally prefer Outbacks too but the Foresters do have advantages.

My experience with an automatic Subaru is that it robs a lot of power but other people love them.

I agree the 1.2 dual range would help but not much.  The 1.6 often leaves you wanting more.

I don't know why you wouldn't want a turbo Subaru, the increased power helps a lot in sand and other unpaved driving situations.  Although the lag is annoying, they will build boost even at low RPMs if you're under load for a while.

You're tired of me saying this, but I think a lot of the problems you describe are due to driving style.  If you're driving slow, yes the VDC helps in two wheels up diagonal situations.  You'll be slipping the clutch a lot in a manual transmission car too.  If you just drive faster, momentum solves all those problems.  I'm not talking 50mph, just enough to get over obstacles without stalling out.  It looks like a lot of what you drive on is sandy; low weight, horsepower, and momentum is really the key in sand.  If you're not willing to drive a Subaru that way and want to crawl, you really should get a Jeep or Toyota.  I think you'd be happy with a Cherokee.

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i did thought of sherokee but then read about them , people here selling only diesels and with lots miles on them i wonder why just diesels, maybe because they coming to that time when you need to repair some things that cost more money ...i dont need to buy car that i will need to repair then , change diesel injectors cost a lot if diesel pump its even more. petrol sherokees here are just older WJ ones and those very rare too. it sucks to choose car ...not much to choose from really here. forester turbos would be driven localy means with rust , or if not driven then they not very good with LPG 

and im not crawling all times with my outback , maybe i say too much about that VDC , thing is its not off road car for me its travel car, overland car more i guess, and yes i like to drive fast on forest roads too kinda rally style sometimes , but just to have more power , and have VDC system as option is allways better then not to have is it ? older forester here localy  cost as much as newer outback or legacy so thats kinda stupid for me and then they sell them with 2.0 NA engine too , and some are worse with auto, they just not going, newer XT would be cool sure , but again its not like off road car for me its for all purposes , travel with 4 people and their bagages too, i kinda find that on those 2005-2009 outbacks or legacys that 3.0 engine must be amazing to drive and to have fun, plus you get that 5th gear at last. 

as i drove now this outback for some time i found that engine was just working perfect  no matter oil low or collant low its still goes and keeps going , gearbox no problems too, not much to fix there , just some things that comes in price for lifting ... 

so my choice is like most powerfull model for that price that i can take woul be those until 2009 . why i would want instead forester for same price but 2004 model maybe with turbo and manual no dual range instead ? turbos need s more maintenance , they not so good on LPG as  you ned to regulate those valves a lot. and 3.0 is more powerfull then turbos anyway. 

Edited by scalman
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looking more into whats what , what does what and such . little comparison normal legacy vs normal outback vs lifted legacy on outback struts vs lifted outback

hKzowjR.jpg

 

and then legacy on outback struts plus 1'' spacers,

lZ2uVUY.jpg

Edited by scalman
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On 10/11/2019 at 8:52 AM, scalman said:

looking more into whats what , what does what and such . little comparison normal legacy vs normal outback vs lifted legacy on outback struts vs lifted outback

hKzowjR.jpg

 

and then legacy on outback struts plus 1'' spacers,

lZ2uVUY.jpg

That's an interesting comparison.

It would be a lot less work to lift an Outback an inch or two than to start with a Legacy and replace all the struts and add subframe spacers.  But if you can get a Legacy a lot cheaper maybe it would be worth it.  I personally prefer wagons, from a quick internet search Subaru stopped selling Legacy wagons in 2006 in the US.

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Yes im looking for wagon only. So legacy wagon or outback. Just its not much to choose from . Plenty 2.5 manual models with dual range but very few 3.0 .one says water pump leaks coolant little. Wonder if its just water pump its not too bad . How do i see its really water pump leak and not head gasket

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6 hours ago, scalman said:

Yes im looking for wagon only. So legacy wagon or outback. Just its not much to choose from . Plenty 2.5 manual models with dual range but very few 3.0 .one says water pump leaks coolant little. Wonder if its just water pump its not too bad . How do i see its really water pump leak and not head gasket

If the water pump seal is leaking, coolant will come from the weep hole.  It's just to the driver's side (left side of the car looking forward) of the crank behind the timing covers, same as the EJ.  The water pump replacement isn't much easier than head gaskets on the EZ though, you have to remove the timing chain cover, chains, tensioners, etc.  It's about sixty allen bolts, some of which will strip out, so it's really a lot easier to do with the engine out of the car.

 

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3 hours ago, pontoontodd said:

If the water pump seal is leaking, coolant will come from the weep hole.  It's just to the driver's side (left side of the car looking forward) of the crank behind the timing covers, same as the EJ.  The water pump replacement isn't much easier than head gaskets on the EZ though, you have to remove the timing chain cover, chains, tensioners, etc.  It's about sixty allen bolts, some of which will strip out, so it's really a lot easier to do with the engine out of the car.

 

well i looked at video how to do it on H6 engine and dont see any problem if do it when you remove radiator in front . or im mistaking ? so thats why maybe nobody buy that car, well so thats maybe good news for me if that car stays on sale for longer then . 

other thing if that leak is not much can i still drive that car for some time , like untill spring ? person says its just bit leaking when car is warm. so if i would still dirve it for couple months like that .. ? might be ok no ? even if i no do that myself if it not big leak i can drive car still i guess

 

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53 minutes ago, scalman said:

well i looked at video how to do it on H6 engine and dont see any problem if do it when you remove radiator in front . or im mistaking ? so thats why maybe nobody buy that car, well so thats maybe good news for me if that car stays on sale for longer then . 

other thing if that leak is not much can i still drive that car for some time , like untill spring ? person says its just bit leaking when car is warm. so if i would still dirve it for couple months like that .. ? might be ok no ? even if i no do that myself if it not big leak i can drive car still i guess

 

If you can get all the allen bolts out it probably wouldn't be too bad.  Just warning you it's more complicated than doing a water pump on an EJ.

It will just keep leaking more, eventually it'll leak bad enough you'll have to add coolant every time you drive it.  If you let it go long enough you'd probably also have timing chain issues and start bending valves.

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8 minutes ago, pontoontodd said:

If you can get all the allen bolts out it probably wouldn't be too bad.  Just warning you it's more complicated than doing a water pump on an EJ.

It will just keep leaking more, eventually it'll leak bad enough you'll have to add coolant every time you drive it.  If you let it go long enough you'd probably also have timing chain issues and start bending valves.

thats not good. and thanks for info. they say its just drop by drop not as leak a lot yet. and they know  maybe how much it costs to fix in service garage so they dont wanna do it i think . they just wanna get rid of it . but how they know its pump and not head gaskets im thinking , hmm ?  but its like half price for same year outback 3.0 , so even if i fix that that not myself it might be cheaper for me. vhange head gaskets its lot more expencive as a job i think , but im not sure . just guessing. like if i do it , it might be better do it in spring when weather will be warmer for me as i cant access garage for now.  

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Is it wise to buy legacy 3.0 with bad head gaskets  ? Well for cheap , so even if i change gaskets in service place it would be ok price for me. So he said coolant goes out fast now in service they saying him its not pump but head gaskets , so they said price and owner wont fix it. 

I wonder would those head gaskets solve all problems for me and thats it cars fine for long time. Maybe its worth to buy and fix it. Not myself in service. 

Edited by scalman
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3 hours ago, scalman said:

Is it wise to buy legacy 3.0 with bad head gaskets  ? Well for cheap , so even if i change gaskets in service place it would be ok price for me. So he said coolant goes out fast now in service they saying him its not pump but head gaskets , so they said price and owner wont fix it. 

I wonder would those head gaskets solve all problems for me and thats it cars fine for long time. Maybe its worth to buy and fix it. Not myself in service. 

How much is the car?  How much does the shop want to replace the head gaskets and mill the heads (basically always needed on the EZ engines from what I've read)?  What year is it and how many miles?  Is there any rust visible anywhere on the car?

If you can buy the car and have the head gaskets replaced for less than you'd pay for a car that doesn't need head gaskets then it's a good deal.  Supposedly the EZ engines have very few head gaskets problems but of the six engines I've had in three different cars, only one of them has no head gasket leak.  Most of them are very minor, you just have to add coolant every 500 miles or so.

In the long run I think you'd be better off with a rust free Cherokee or Toyota for the low speed off roading you're trying to do.

Are you still driving your 2001 OB?  I'd just run some longer bolts all the way through the floor and get that trailing arm mount back in place for the time being.  Even a big ratchet strap through the floor would hold it well enough for pavement driving while you get a replacement.

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3 hours ago, pontoontodd said:

How much is the car?  How much does the shop want to replace the head gaskets and mill the heads (basically always needed on the EZ engines from what I've read)?  What year is it and how many miles?  Is there any rust visible anywhere on the car?

If you can buy the car and have the head gaskets replaced for less than you'd pay for a car that doesn't need head gaskets then it's a good deal.  Supposedly the EZ engines have very few head gaskets problems but of the six engines I've had in three different cars, only one of them has no head gasket leak.  Most of them are very minor, you just have to add coolant every 500 miles or so.

In the long run I think you'd be better off with a rust free Cherokee or Toyota for the low speed off roading you're trying to do.

Are you still driving your 2001 OB?  I'd just run some longer bolts all the way through the floor and get that trailing arm mount back in place for the time being.  Even a big ratchet strap through the floor would hold it well enough for pavement driving while you get a replacement.

well outbacks 2005-2009 and with 3.0 comes at 4k euros and more some where less imported but they gone now and ones that left are cars that was driven localy for years means on all  that salt too. but they all say no rust and i cant see any rust outside on pics at least. for me most important how it looks under in arches and under car. so i would see those when i would check car in place. car its some 100km from me , so i need to drive to see it . 

so he saying car cant drive far because coolant leaks pretty big and engine become hot fast. so now he dont wanna fix car so he lowered price to 1650 euros. and i was asking how much it would cost me to do head gaskets for this engine with all stuff like mill heads , changing all rubber stuff , valve adjustment it would be about 1k euros maybe more like to 1200. so in all still car would not be so much ...then i would add LPG to it ..but thats extra . only for head gaskets i could go cheaper maybe some 800 euros.  so i dont know is it worth it. i mean why gaskets leaked was engine overheated or something else. or its all will be fine when changed gaskets. yes its low legacy but i will lift it some at first . maybe more later . not sure. i counted all 4 new shocks from outback as for lift legacy would be about 500 more with springs. so with outback new struts car would cost some over 3k. still less then they want for outbacks here . 

but now they said i would need to wait maybe some 2-3 weeks until they can fix my car .. and that i cant afford. i mean what im gonna do until then ? i can search for new cars for sale in those 2-3 weeks i maybe find something better . i thought it would be 2-3 days not weeks. cmon. 

i weld that arm to place and drive it now still yes . to work and back and on some good roads more far too. i think its holding for now. im not sure for other side though so im being carefull now not doing anything offroad or harsh turns and such. so better i find other car the better. i rly cant give new car for 2-3 weeks and wait for it . 

 

QfySbea.jpg

and from other side i weld it as well even more , i mean its not anymore removable. and i weld it to new metal that i did added before , not to rusty spoob that was on car. so its kinda all connected between now. its holds some more i hope. 

Edited by scalman
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1 hour ago, pontoontodd said:

So this is an Outback?  What year?  Where is the rust?  Underhood pics?  What are your plans for this one?  Do you still have the old one?

yes found outback for good price all stuff in car, LPG in car , almost new winter tires, so i no need do anything to it for now. 

2005/12  so its more like 2006 , and i didint saw any rust no under car or in places where my rust was worse on car so no nothing there, and this person bought it for same reason too because it was no rust .

i duno plans i saw those outbacks looks good lifted and people say they better if you put in rear older gen 2003 struts in . so maybe i will change struts with lift , thinking about mine self leveling struts on my 2001 outback , they would fit but how to check are they good, i mean they work kinda different arent they , with that self level stuff and all. or its not worth t o use them more ? not sure. so first lift then i will see. i wonder those lower black parts on bumpers do they removing like separating or they just for looks and they all one piece. if they separating then i could just remove that lower lip part and i would have good bumper no need cut. i kinda no wanna cut this pretty car haha. they sits higher allready from 2nd gen outback so with lift they would go even higher. 

this time i would like to keeep sway bars so maybe make extension for them so they would work normaly with original links, or find longer links. so i could use it on longer trips still feel good on road.

engine its just amazing how it pulls , wow. compare to 2.5 with 4eat its like sports car , with that sportshift function its even more pulling . it goes from 70km/h to like 120km/h like its nothing. sound great too. sounds like some nissan GTR. very nice and louder then normal as owner did some midifiactions so it sound more. 

it should fit 16 rims too is it ? because now its on 17, and i wouldnt want buy 17 more agressive tire i think they cost much more, but not sure about that. 

yes still have that outback. maybe someone will buy it just for parts because its with VDC and all. engine still runs ok just leaks oil 

 

looks like that bumper in one piece then

d7c467d9-dd78-4bc7-9c74-1656f5beed78.jpg

 

8c9485fb-a5c3-409d-bf23-f00975205c71.jpg

 

i was hoping its kinda 2 separate pieces ... 

so then i duno will lit it i guess and then drive around and see what i need for my needs where i drive and such, if i will need something done then maybe i will do some mods to those bumpers , but after i drove it around . 

 

4'' lift is too much i think 

38994393992_dd3ab22458_c.jpg

maybe just this much lift would be enough

fdbea4b231e6764aa412b7a7c757fecc.jpg

 

and this time i kinda wanna keep that driving style same as before lift , that stiffnes, so im thinking if i leave sway bars this would help 

 

Edited by scalman
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7 minutes ago, scalman said:

 

yes found outback for good price all stuff in car, LPG in car , almost new winter tires, so i no need do anything to it for now. 

2005/12  so its more like 2006 , and i didint saw any rust no under car or in places where my rust was worse on car so no nothing there, and this person bought it for same reason too because it was no rust .

i duno plans i saw those outbacks looks good lifted and people say they better if you put in rear older gen 2003 struts in . so maybe i will change struts with lift , thinking about mine self leveling struts on my 2001 outback , they would fit but how to check are they good, i mean they work kinda different arent they , with that self level stuff and all. or its not worth t o use them more ? not sure. so first lift then i will see. i wonder those lower black parts on bumpers do they removing like separating or they just for looks and they all one piece. if they separating then i could just remove that lower lip part and i would have good bumper no need cut. i kinda no wanna cut this pretty car haha. they sits higher allready from 2nd gen outback so with lift they would go even higher. 

this time i would like to keeep sway bars so maybe make extension for them so they would work normaly with original links, or find longer links. so i could use it on longer trips still feel good on road.

engine its just amazing how it pulls , wow. compare to 2.5 with 4eat its like sports car , with that sportshift function its even more pulling . it goes from 70km/h to like 120km/h like its nothing. sound great too. sounds like some nissan GTR. very nice and louder then normal as owner did some midifiactions so it sound more. 

it should fit 16 rims too is it ? because now its on 17, and i wouldnt want buy 17 more agressive tire i think they cost much more, but not sure about that. 

yes still have that outback. maybe someone will buy it just for parts because its with VDC and all. engine still runs ok just leaks oil 

 

Sounds great.

If you start beating on it offroad, then it won't be pretty, and then you won't feel bad about beating on it offroad.

The EZ30 and 4EAT does really pull once you get going.  I'm disappointed by the low speed acceleration in my 2002 but my 2001 is pretty good.

I would see if you can fit one of your 16" rims from your old car on the new car, but the front brakes might be too big.  If they do fit, get some off road tires for those 16" rims so you have more sidewall height.

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you mean EZ30 and 5eat ? because its 5 speed sportshift on this one 

my  BFG TA KO2 are done allready they need to go ,no reason to put them on that, and i duno they made those discs larger again i think , but heard that people using 16 rims on them still so maybe they would fit. sure could try just put them on to see if they fits. so in any way i would need new tires if i would want to put allterrains again. but for now and because money reason i could just use those winter tires that are on car, and winter tires does good offroad too on subarus at least. 

i could try my lift from my old car now on this , it should be same bolt paterns i think. but for now i will enjoy some non lifting driving i thing. well to see how it goes. maybe just put skid plate if its fits from older car. 

other thing if someone would want to buy that 2001 outback it needs to have wheels on it and all stuff  so it could drive i think. i mean i dont wanna strip it because i dont have place to keep car if it will be non driven . so it must drive , cant remove wheels or other parts , can remove lift though, and maybe use self level shocks if they still works. instead would put normal shocks. 

i cant use more money now on car to modify it or buy new tires or stuff, so for now i will just drive it like this, could just put some things on it that i can make myself , like skid plates and lift , those i could do for now. until its not too cold at least outside. 

 

almost no rust i ment that rust its on those extra steel plates that are near engine and maybe somehwere else that i didint saw yet , but on most important part there is no rust. but again this have all 4 wheel arches covered with plastic covers  so i couldnt see under them yet too. 

 

i dont want to beat it off road and make it look bad ... hehe. i would avoid that as much as possible, just drive it off road some not beat it , you know . not like you at least no way , never. hehe 

Edited by scalman
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So i found good examples of what i would do anf how it looks

xKiztQ7.jpg

And now my stages on car will be 1. Lift , leave 17 oem rims, 2. Maybe cut bumper, maybe

kKYYJSo.jpgi know that smaller wheels are better for offroad but i think think those 17 with lift looks just great, better then no lift even

 

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VDC with more powerfull engine works much better , now VDC doesnt kills engine at all, so no matter what wheels still spin and car did not stall , as was before with 2.5 engine. so much upgrade now , VDC will work much better im sure, i just need some lift and larger tires would be perfect , but no money now for new tires. 

 

 

 

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tried lift spacer for one side in front and it seems like they on center and no rubbing nothing , so that lift would be coming in next couple days if no rain 

BbD72eK.jpg

 

thats how much travel down it can maker with sway bar disconnected at least one side. 

 

longer sway bar links will be needed if keep sway bar, but they seem similar to rear links and they longer , so will see maybe those will fit to fron after lift to keep that sway bar on. 

Edited by scalman
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this thread is not fitting this car anymore. should i make new one ?

anyway 5cm lift on car . looks more then 5cm, and rear lifted more then 5cm , maybe because those self leveling shocks there. need larger tires would look even better, but allready 30 cm ground clearance from rear diff 

qNfgrN8.jpg

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