Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

'01 outback 2.5AT, VDC offroad/ overlanding build


scalman
 Share

Recommended Posts

esting diagonal in snow on angle VDC off vs on . tried switch between them to see what does what,. VDC was trying so hard to get out of there but at times it seems just not enough power as VDC cuts power even more. more power would do much better i guess. 3.0 models or 2.5 turbo should do that better. still in some situations it might help and less chances to brake something as VDC doesnt give too much revs 

7bFnTCN.jpg

lBh1nrW.jpg

 

that VDC kinda mimics lockers just its not brakes any axles by doing that. yes its not as good as 100% locker but i think better then half lockers. 

uFcRAf0.gif

 

Edited by scalman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 my rear subframe holding on 2 bolts from 4. front 2 rusted off from mounting places and they dropped couple cm down . thats why i got that knock sound when im changing from spining wheels forward to backwards on deep snow and places. 

hello darkness my old friend.. :mellow:

mnKAAQK.jpg

GwhjB3t.jpg

Edited by scalman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, scalman said:

 my rear subframe holding on 2 bolts from 4. front 2 rusted off from mounting places and they dropped couple cm down . thats why i got that knock sound when im changing from spining wheels forward to backwards on deep snow and places. 

hello darkness my old friend.. :mellow:

mnKAAQK.jpg

GwhjB3t.jpg

YIKES!  That's not gonna hold for long.  Won't pass inspection either I'm guessing.

Dude you need to get in there an weld up some reinforcement.   Or find a new car.........That is pretty bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

some day some day... i will try to find good metal or place where i could put some new metal tube in there and then strenghten all that at least. still couple month until warm weather. maybe it will hold until then. 

yh i know i need to weld that just now its not possible at my uncles garage or i need to ask somenone to do that but i doubt some welder would do this job or it would take like couple weeks and i cant do that. its my daily car . my welder in garage but i cant get car into garage and its cold outside so ... 

yh thats salt eats everything ... 

i dont have money for other car and i wouldnt sell it in this shape for much . but its VDC model and rare. if i could fix that rear suspension things there it will still drive for some time. 

Edited by scalman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hmmm....seems almost like steering rack bushings issue - seems too loud to be inner tierods......

 

if you put the front up on jack stands, can you duplicate the problem shifting the wheels front to back (9 o'clock to 3 o'clock) ? Or, grab the tierods and push-pull? (not a bad idea to try lift-rocking them too, bad wheel bearing will allow movement in the 6 o'clock-12 o'clock , should be solid) compare left side to right side.

seems too loud to be the little u-joint on the steering shaft but, they can go bad or begin binding.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, scalman said:

my steering column how bad it is how bad it clicks. no its not bushings. its from column itself. inside it. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tANG0S_lFYM&list=UURpccqpuVAYzXFgVqVxKYCQ

Pull the boot back and take a look.  On the Outback should just be a spring that you can slide off and slide the boot out.  Probably inner tie rod end or rack bushing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, pontoontodd said:

Pull the boot back and take a look.  On the Outback should just be a spring that you can slide off and slide the boot out.  Probably inner tie rod end or rack bushing.

What about that bolt that kinda tights up that or lossens it. Is that worth checking?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, scalman said:

What about that bolt that kinda tights up that or lossens it. Is that worth checking?

Do you mean where the inner tie rod threads into the rack?  If that was loose it would certainly cause slop.  Just pull the boot back, wipe the grease and oil off, and check it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't done it though my '03 has very slight clicking at the inner tierod (that ball-and-socket).

we can get aftermarket or OEM of course, and parts stores loan the tools. I HAVE read of people using pipe wrenches to swap.

 

but, you need to first fine where the problem is - it seems too loud to be an inner tire rod. I have read of adjustments to the rack itself, dunno much about that. Seems most people just get used racks from junkyards.

 

just depends of the source of the problem.

Edited by 1 Lucky Texan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i disconnected steering link and moved it with hand not on buching and its klicks same. in video its very loud maybe too close mic to source. but its getting worse with time, like in last year its got much worse. 

so its not those parts i checked those 

s-l225.jpg

curious to try remove boot and look for some spring there... on what side ? or its on both sides that spring ?

thats sound comes from inside or from there

zSuXUDd.jpg

i was changing boots on rack but dont know what can i do there ??

 

so if play will be from there , what i could do about it then ?

91090d1404070446-play-wheel-tie-rod-vs-r

Edited by scalman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, scalman said:

i disconnected steering link and moved it with hand not on buching and its klicks same. in video its very loud maybe too close mic to source. but its getting worse with time, like in last year its got much worse. 

so its not those parts i checked those 

s-l225.jpg

curious to try remove boot and look for some spring there... on what side ? or its on both sides that spring ?

thats sound comes from inside or from there

zSuXUDd.jpg

i was changing boots on rack but dont know what can i do there ??

 

so if play will be from there , what i could do about it then ?

91090d1404070446-play-wheel-tie-rod-vs-r

If I understand you correctly I'm guessing it's your rack bushings.  The bushings in my 99 Outback rack were bad when I bought it and I just swapped out the whole rack for one from a junkyard.  The hardest part of that is getting to the power steering fittings near the passenger side of the engine.  Looks like your boots were good though and it was pretty clean inside so that's surprising.  It's hard to say for sure, post another little video of what you're seeing.  We've had to replace a bunch of those u-joint steering shafts, as rusty as your car is I wouldn't be surprised if that's sloppy and noisy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yh i will see more to that. Yes its rusty in rear mostly. In front i would say its ok. Just its leaks oil what must be infamous head gaskets an i have bad o2 sensors on catalyst wich i will replace soon. 

I cant work on my rusty rear now as garage is not acceptable that i used before . uncle said until weather gets warm. That could be couple month from now. Maybe i could find some used but not clicking steering rack there for cheap and used that. Would yoh say my lift and my sway bars removing make that steering rack go so bad? It was not so bad like that before. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VDC Off . 1st gear on auto. testing flat out pedal to metal was curious will front and rear wheels will spin in snow same speed will it be equal split. pretty nice to see that when i did flat out all wheels where just spinning same speed or it looks at least as same 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1st gear VDC off into fresh snow . nice to see that all wheels goes

 https://i.imgur.com/R46xRVD.gif

 

another thing . when you put new strut mount on strut it should not move to sides as has little loose is it ? it should fit perfect and be stable yes ?

because when i changed strut mount mine was little loose and that bearing was not same height as was that step on strut. maybe someone put wrong struts or sold me wrong mount ? 

BcUvUQ8l.jpg

 

Edited by scalman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

so may ugly rusted rear subframe is not that bad as it was seem to. tried to fix worse side and did it outside on snow in dark. no prob with some led light. didint had any other metal tubes so used what i had . when i cut out all the rusty parts found that other metal is pretty good still there. So put inside some tubes . just need to cover that with some metal sheet and will be good. 

q20olX2.jpg

 

other unpleasant thing is that i checked online what O2 senors wmy car should have and i bought it .. very nice some denso dox-0307 sensor . 4 wires . all nice ... but then what i have in car is not same 

P4Mf3hS.jpg

ftw is that ? why i have 5 wire sensor and 6 pins connector ?? can i still use it like weld it to wires that ECU needs , or my ECU needs all 6 wires there. but no other models no newer ones uses more wires sensor . why my car does ? 

Edited by scalman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/28/2019 at 7:06 AM, scalman said:

1st gear VDC off into fresh snow . nice to see that all wheels goes

 https://i.imgur.com/R46xRVD.gif

 

another thing . when you put new strut mount on strut it should not move to sides as has little loose is it ? it should fit perfect and be stable yes ?

because when i changed strut mount mine was little loose and that bearing was not same height as was that step on strut. maybe someone put wrong struts or sold me wrong mount ? 

BcUvUQ8l.jpg

 

did you lose the washer that goes between the strut top and the mount?  it's about 30mm in diameter, maybe 4mm thick with a taper to one side (taper side goes up)  

This washer is what ride on the bearing inner hub and allows pivot for turning.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/1/2019 at 3:02 PM, scalman said:

so may ugly rusted rear subframe is not that bad as it was seem to. tried to fix worse side and did it outside on snow in dark. no prob with some led light. didint had any other metal tubes so used what i had . when i cut out all the rusty parts found that other metal is pretty good still there. So put inside some tubes . just need to cover that with some metal sheet and will be good. 

q20olX2.jpg

 

other unpleasant thing is that i checked online what O2 senors wmy car should have and i bought it .. very nice some denso dox-0307 sensor . 4 wires . all nice ... but then what i have in car is not same 

P4Mf3hS.jpg

ftw is that ? why i have 5 wire sensor and 6 pins connector ?? can i still use it like weld it to wires that ECU needs , or my ECU needs all 6 wires there. but no other models no newer ones uses more wires sensor . why my car does ? 

Sounds like you have the wrong O2 sensor.  Which one is the plug that is in your car?  I'd look up one for a year before or after your car's model year and see if it fits, return the ones that don't fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes i learned i need some kind of fancy wide band 5 wire sensor. damn i made mistake there. i should check on car first then order something.  

my sensors in catalyst are 

1 liambda  22641AA100 
2 liambda  22690AA420

 

and i found that first one that i need just bosch one. some said me denso would be better but i cant find denso localy . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...