2001 Legacy Outback Limited Parts ?

[psrdesigns]

Hi I got a steel on a 2001 Legacy Outback Limited and I'm loving it but it needs works, Runs,Drives,Passes mass's state inspection no problem. But It shakes pretty good in the steering wheel when I get over 55mph and stop (so i'm thinking front rotors on the stopping part)  and the back end cabin sound gets really loud after 35mph. I think it's the wheel bearings on the back end and I can't get a good answer on what parts i need to swap them. I can't tell If i should be looking for legacy parts or outback parts for one, and I'm not going repack the knuckle so I'd just buy new ones. So would it be as easy as whacking the hub out and just putting new knuckles in or do they need to be pressed it? I can't find Wheelbearing and hub assemblies for a 2001 outback.

[1 Lucky Texan]

take the knuckle and new bearings to an auto machine shop and have them remove the old and press in the new bearings. No HBAs until about model year 06 I think.

 

so many things 'could' cause front end shake; check inner tie rods for certain. Sometimes sticking calipers can drag. move tires front-to-back see if it's a bad tire.

 

all 4 tires MUST be the same model and close in wear-level or AWD/drivetrain problems can occur.

 

search here for questions about specific systems on the car - lots of threads on common questions.

 

RockAuto, Amazon, and online dealers like subarugenuineparts.com or fredbeansparts.com and others are good sources for parts.

Edited May 20, 2016 by 1 Lucky Texan

[ThosL]

I put in a couple front knuckles from the junk yard at $75 each that fit the bill with out breaking the bank.  Not sure if rear used bearing make as much sense.  If the hubs were at all damaged even the best bearings can have a short life.

[nickb21]

Mileage?

 

2000+ went to the "bolt on" bearing assemblies in the rear only. Fronts are still pressed.

 

When you swap out the rotors, you may want to check for stuck pistons in the calipers. Wouldn't hurt to flush the brake fluid too.

[psrdesigns]

Mileage?

 

2000+ went to the "bolt on" bearing assemblies in the rear only. Fronts are still pressed.

 

When you swap out the rotors, you may want to check for stuck pistons in the calipers. Wouldn't hurt to flush the brake fluid too.

It's got 181k on it and I paid $800 because the owners were moving back to Sweden. That's what I'm caught up on, If all I need to do is whack the hub off, Take the 4 bolts off that hold the knuckle on and swap it out with a new knuckle with the bearings already in it and then just put the hub back? How would the hub stay on if they're not all pressed in? I'm not new to car repairs but I am to wheel bearings.

[ocei77]

Download FSM.

New Gen FAQ sticky, 2nd page under my name.

Will give you what you need to know.

 

O.

[nickb21]

Whoops, little too fast an left some stuff out... ocei77's FSM link should show a good picture (or check opposedforces.com).

 

I haven't done a rear yet on this gen - only fronts. But when I looked at it; the hub is still pressed into the bearing (sealed), and that assembly is bolted to the knuckle, well trailing arm. So four bolts and the hub+bearing piece should pop out (plus axle nut). Then you can either press the hub (if it's good) into a new bearing and re-install, or I believe you can buy a pre-assembled hub+bearing piece.

 

I think that makes sense. Let us know how it goes, might be getting into it shortly myself...