nicksubaru Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 So i didnt have a ground wire from the nav side of the battery to the body, so i added a ground wire from the head of the block to the body and the nav side of the battery. It seemed to run butter, i will check tomorrow to see if this fixed the cold start problem, and the hard codes, as i let it warm up. Thx to ferp420 for coming out today and helping me. He sew that i didnt have a ground wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) Double post Edited January 20, 2017 by ferp420 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) Yay triple post Edited January 20, 2017 by ferp420 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Some times a second set of eyes helps I'm lookin forward to hitting some trails when I get back up that way if there's anything left of my rig good luck with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 So after the ground wire being added, i have only two codes 21 and 24. Cold start still a problem. But it dont seem as bad, but still is bad... any other ideas??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 21 is the CTS. I would start there, and clean the connector really well. A new one might be in your future, but clean the connector first. Then the IAC. Clean it, too. I have IAC problems, but cold start is not the issue. It starts just fine, but doesn't idle properly as it warms up. Eventually, it starts to behave better, but not like it should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 I have cleaned the connections, even though the connection were not bad at all. Adding the ground wire cleared up the tps code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 If you can mist a little fuel down the throttle body it will tell you if your lacking fuel at start up also if you can do a compression check it was a carbed engine originally so its gonna have lower compression than a spfi but it a good thing to check out also do your compression test twice once normal then squirt some wd40 down the plug hole and try again it shouldn't make a difference but if it dose raise the compression than your rings are shot other than that I can't think of anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 (edited) There is more than one connection between the sensors and the ECU. Clean them all, maybe make sure there is continuity all the way. And it might be time to pull out the CTS and test it properly. Edited January 26, 2017 by robm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Try willing and jiggling the harness, gently of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 So after ive been messing with wires and connecters the codes im getting now are 21 and 31... so the 24 code is clear, but the 31 code is back... so im, guessing that i have bad connection with tps and air idle control valve. And my temp sensor might actually be bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 So i took the whole harness out, and im going to check each wire and replace whats needed, the next time i work on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 So i took the whole harness out, and im going to check each wire and replace whats needed, the next time i work on it While you have it out, examine the back of the connectors where the wires attach. Gently tug on each wire to ensure they are secure the the connector and not intermittent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I had a wire in the engine harness fail - just in the middle of it's run. No kink, no external damage, it had just snapped inside it's insulation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferp420 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 I think the codes on a ea82 are only usefull if it isent running I do my diagnoses as if I was working on a vw bug or something always start simple air fuel and spark my ea82m through all those codes and more and still ran great when I get back up that way I'll dig out my extra parts and we can swap some stuff around but honestly if its just the ruff starting I don't think its a sensor problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 So my daily driver (2000 outback) is down . My clutch fork broke. So this car just moved up on my stuff do get done. I tried to clean each plug on the Harness the best i could. Put it back in the car. The cts code is soild, the other two are not all the time. I ordered the cts and ill put it in tomorrow. The exhaust leak ill fix tonight for one side then the other tomorrow. I needed a gasket for both sides each. Waiting for the other one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Found an other thing. I got this car (91 loyale) on the road today. It got dark the head lights got bright then dim. I looked at the volts, on the bright, showed 18volts on the dim it showed 12ish volts. Not sure how long this has been going on but would this mess with the sensors? And im pretty sure to fix this, would be to change out the alt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I had an alternator fail recently this way, the regulator quit, so it would over voltage with higher rpm, low voltage at idle. not good for things, but I didn't drive it long like that. Unstable voltage might cause trouble, I didn't notice anything though. No problems after I replaced the alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Fix exhaust leak. Fix cts. Still have air idle control problem. It will die sometimes at stop signs and idle isnt constant. And now i have 51 code. Natural safety switch stuck on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksubaru Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 Replaced alternator. Im only getting the 24 code sometimes, any other idea before i front the cash for a new iacv? If i can find one that is.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubiKing907 Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 I know this thread is from years ago but I'm genuinely curious what ultimately got her goin' for you again. If you're still active I'd love to know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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