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EA82 Coupe Can't Adjust Door To Shut Completely

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I did a search, but most of what came back was about adjusting windows.  I've got an EA82 coupe that doesn't like to fully latch the driver's side door.


When the door is closed, you can push the trailing edge of the door in towards the body about a 1/4 inch and when you get up to highway speeds, the wind noise is pretty unbearable.


I tried adjusting the striker closer to the driver's seat, but nothing seemed to change.  I tried adjusting it outwards, away from the seat and still, nothing seemed to change.

What am I missing?  The 1987 FSM isn't much help either.





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The striker I believe is the steel "u" bolt that is in the door jam. But the striker doesn't just move all of sudden unless the bolts are loose and you would know. Think about how many times you are slamming your door. It is the latch inside the door. It needs to be greased and or wd40ed from time to time. My Rx did it briefly but once I saw it was a sticky latch I just keep an eye on it and every once and while I will grease it. 

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I've adjusted the striker before with good results. You also need to watch how the window hits. If it has too much play, it can contact the trim once the striker is moved in, causing it to hang up. If the window regulator allows the window to flop in or out excessively, it also can cause the window to hang up in the seal.


Best way to adjust the striker is by using an impact driver to get the bolts loose. I will barely loosen them up, tap the striker in about as far as the door sticks out, then tighten them back up with the impact driver.

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I didn't have any trouble loosening the striker bolts, but I currently have it adjusted all the way in towards the center of the car, with no change.


What part of the latch needs grease?  I sprayed a bunch of WD-40 from the outside, but it sounds like the latch needs attention on the inside.


The window glass is not hitting anything but the rubber seal and the latch doesn't seem to be catching prematurely.

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White Lithium Spray grease is far better for door/hood/trunk latches and hinges.


There should be a plastic sleeve on the striker. If it's missing or badly worn, the door won't latch shut properly.

Same striker is used on all doors, just flip it over for PS-DS.


You can work the door latch itself with a Phillips screw driver.

Place it were the striker would hit and move it towards the outside of door. Should feel 2 distinct clicks for full latch.

If you don't feel both clicks, spray grease into latch working the straw around inside of latch. Keep working the latch after you sprayed it by holding the outside handle in the open position and working latch with the screwdriver.

Should free it up after a few cycles. If not, latch is likely toast.

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New strikers for both doors fixed the issue.  The driver's side had worn through the plastic coating and was starting to wear down the striker itself.  The passenger's side still had the plastic, but it was loose and in pretty rough shape anyway.


I should note that while I was able to order the strikers from SOA, the hardware to mount it is NLA... :(

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  • 2 years later...

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