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So...I've been noticing this noise coming from the bay when I start the car. it's pretty loud from a cold start then tends to die down once the engine warms up. it kind of cycles between loud and quiet not really sure what's up, but I uploaded a video to youtube so you can get a better idea of the noise i am hearing and where it's coming from. no idea on oil pressure as my gauge is non-functioning and from what I hear are unreliable anyway. Might be time to re-seal the oil pump....

here is the video.

 

cheers,

TJ

 

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Yep. Just what you thought it to be. Noisy lifter. Referred on here as, "The Tic-of-Death" (TOD). But it's really not fatal to the engine. Annoying as all get out, definitely.

 

Some Seafoam in the oil for a bit to maybe clean things, and a fresh oil change may help.

But a reseal of the oil pump would really be best.

 

edit;

 

Didn't hear that when you were down here last Sunday.

Edited by TomRhere
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I had noticed it for a bit before i came to see you Tom, guess it just wasn't loud on that day haha. It's been getting worse though. I'll do a cleaning of the engine, might try that diesel fuel / oil combo to loosen things up or the ATM fluid / oil as I've heard it can clean the engine well. every tried any of those tricks? Also, I asked my mechanic about re-sealing the pump and he told me the engine needed to come out and it's expensive. total bs right? the engine does not need to come out to remove the oil pump....asked him about it cause I wanna change my timing belts soon and I've heard from here while your doing the belts it's a good time to re-seal the pump if you need to since you have to remove similar components to get at the oil pump.

Edited by YnotDIY

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Oil pump can be serviced without removing the engine. Easier if you pull the radiator.

 

Might as well do the timing belts and idlers at the same time.

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Oil pump can be serviced without removing the engine. Easier if you pull the radiator.

 

Might as well do the timing belts and idlers at the same time.

 

Agreed.

 

Also may want to replace the water pump if money allows and you don't know it's age. Going to be right there next to it anyways.

 

Seeing as yours doesn't have A/C, pulling the radiator AND the center of the grille, gives all kinds of; "I can see what I'm doing" room.

 

I have used ATF/kerosene/fuel-oil/diesel along with the engine oil in the oil pan to try to clean the innards of an engine in the past. All will work, but I seem to like Seafoam more as of late.. ATF is high detergent, it do clean stuff well.

Risleone (sp?) Engine Flush was another one I used in the past, but don't find it locally anymore. That stuff worked in my opinion, but it smelled just like kerosene to me. So why not use use kerosene instead was my thought, as I could buy a gallon of kerosene for the cost of the quart can of Risleone.

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Been driving EJs for so long now. Been a long time since my ears have heard the melodious T.O.D.

 

Good memories.

 

My dream is to EJ swap this GL...getting tired of people passing me all the time haha. but alas that is far far down the road...gotta first figure out where I'm leaking brake fluid and radiator fluid oh and gear oil fluid.... :/ the bay is so gnarly with dirt and oil and road stuff it's hard to tell where anything is coming from....can't wait for summer and to be out of school..can't wait for the car days of summer.

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Oil pump can be serviced without removing the engine. Easier if you pull the radiator.

 

Might as well do the timing belts and idlers at the same time.

 

Agreed.

 

Also may want to replace the water pump if money allows and you don't know it's age. Going to be right there next to it anyways.

 

Seeing as yours doesn't have A/C, pulling the radiator AND the center of the grille, gives all kinds of; "I can see what I'm doing" room.

 

I have used ATF/kerosene/fuel-oil/diesel along with the engine oil in the oil pan to try to clean the innards of an engine in the past. All will work, but I seem to like Seafoam more as of late.. ATF is high detergent, it do clean stuff well.

Risleone (sp?) Engine Flush was another one I used in the past, but don't find it locally anymore. That stuff worked in my opinion, but it smelled just like kerosene to me. So why not use use kerosene instead was my thought, as I could buy a gallon of kerosene for the cost of the quart can of Risleone.

 

 

This is all good news. I might just wait for summer so I can wrench on it myself. I need to daily this to school at the moment and can't be without it while I figure out how to do everything. I know this should be posted in another thread, but I'm gonna ask anyway and then I'll transfer the info over, but what tools are necessary for doing the belts / pullys ect. also would wanna do the crank and cam seals while I'm in there if they look gnarly. I mean generally which tools. not like exact measurements for sockets and stuff. anything special?

 

If this needs to be asked in another thread, just point me to the right direction. I mean...I'd also be doing the oil pump reseal and for sure water pump while I'm at it...

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My dream is to EJ swap this GL...getting tired of people passing me all the time haha. but alas that is far far down the road...gotta first figure out where I'm leaking brake fluid and radiator fluid oh and gear oil fluid.... :/ the bay is so gnarly with dirt and oil and road stuff it's hard to tell where anything is coming from....can't wait for summer and to be out of school..can't wait for the car days of summer.

 

LOL. Thats how they go sometimes. The list of repairs/"to-dos" might be a page and a half long, but you can still jump into it and drive 500 miles on any given day.

 

Ej is the way to go for better performance/long term if the car will be with you for a number of years. Find a cheap parts car that's wrecked or has a bad trans (if you were closer, there's a 94 legacy that runs well but the body is rotting for 300 near me) - order an adapter plate and such. if it weren't for all the blasted wiring it would be an 8 hour job.

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You can limp it along fine for now. Just be neurotic about checking the coolant, and find that leak.

 

Keep that and the other stuff full, and you won't hurt anything.

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LOL. Thats how they go sometimes. The list of repairs/"to-dos" might be a page and a half long, but you can still jump into it and drive 500 miles on any given day.

 

Ej is the way to go for better performance/long term if the car will be with you for a number of years. Find a cheap parts car that's wrecked or has a bad trans (if you were closer, there's a 94 legacy that runs well but the body is rotting for 300 near me) - order an adapter plate and such. if it weren't for all the blasted wiring it would be an 8 hour job.

 

wish i was confident enough to pull the engine myself. would definitely need someone here to hand hold me all the way through it. so it you ever feel like coming to Michigan for a weekend hit me up! wish i could get that legacy over here.

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I have a write up in the newer gen section for a complete EJ remove and reinstall. Pulling the EA motor would go even faster.

 

It's a long list but no one step of it is really any harder than changing out brake pads.

 

I have enjoyed a few romps and backpacking trips to the U.P. We used to live in southern wisconsin. The first transmission swap I ever did was a used one from a forester purchased in Grand rapids. So heck, if you get as far as having the EJ stuff lined up, let me know. Maybe I can use it as an excuse for some more sight seeing.

Edited by AdventureSubaru

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Thinking I could lend a hand or two myself.

Would need a few days notice to make sure nothing else would be scheduled then, but could do a couple days at your place getting things done, or ready to be finished up aleast.

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I have a write up in the newer gen section for a complete EJ remove and reinstall. Pulling the EA motor would go even faster.

 

It's a long list but no one step of it is really any harder than changing out brake pads.

 

I have enjoyed a few romps and backpacking trips to the U.P. We used to live in southern wisconsin. The first transmission swap I ever did was a used one from a forester purchased in Grand rapids. So heck, if you get as far as having the EJ stuff lined up, let me know. Maybe I can use it as an excuse for some more sight seeing.

 

Thinking I could lend a hand or two myself.

Would need a few days notice to make sure nothing else would be scheduled then, but could do a couple days at your place getting things done, or ready to be finished up aleast.

 

If I can source the parts I'll let ya'll know. definitely wont be until the summer for sure.  Also, did the engine cleaning with fuel / oil mix...ran it for 15min TWICE. first drain was really gnarly black next was mostly clear. Put 10w 40 in it and from a cold start it's still ticking so it looks like it's time to re-seal that pump. only problem is I wont be able to get to it until May rolls around. Think 2 months of ticking will kill the lifters?

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Probably not.  I've driven an intermittently ticky one for quite a while.  Reseal the pump, tick fades away after a good few drives.

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 Think 2 months of ticking will kill the lifters?

 

absolutely not. these things have been ticking for long periods of time for two decades.  i have no idea how many ticking EA/ER engines i've seen, well into double digits and i've never seen any engine failures or issues from it. 

ignore it and carry on.

 

i mean i prefer to at least try an oil pump reseal or swapping another oil pump or three as it's not that hard - but i wouldn't ever fault someone for not doing it who can't DIY it. 

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Reseal the pump, tick fades away after a good few drives.

 

If that doesn't work, replacing the pump has solved every other TOD i've encountered.  Others say sometimes they need cam carrier orings replaced but I've never seen that and wonder if it's mostly relegated to 86 and older engines or high mileage, poorly maintained, or something like that.  i've never seen it. 

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/

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If that doesn't work, replacing the pump has solved every other TOD i've encountered.  Others say sometimes they need cam carrier orings replaced but I've never seen that and wonder if it's mostly relegated to 86 and older engines or high mileage, poorly maintained, or something like that.  i've never seen it. 

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/

  

Thanks for the link! lots of great info on there. :clap: Next question is if I'm doing the cam carrier rings / seals and crank seal is it necessary to drain out all the engine oil?  I'm sure this is a novice question, but I have yet to get repair manuals for this EA82. Won't mind if i have to do it, just wondering if it's necessary.

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Probably not.  I've driven an intermittently ticky one for quite a while.  Reseal the pump, tick fades away after a good few drives.

 

fingers crossed. I'll post in here when I actually get to it. glad to know it's not gonna kill the engine if I neglect it for a bit. the whole "tick of death" acronym had me freaked out. why would someone play this cruel joke? haha

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Don't have to drain the oil to pull the heads, or anything above them.

 

The first time I saw a TOD thread on here, I didn't know what they were talking about. I had already had lifter tick and fixed it. I can only guess someone new to cars thought it was a horrific going to die soon sound.

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Don't have to drain the oil to pull the heads, or anything above them.

 

The first time I saw a TOD thread on here, I didn't know what they were talking about. I had already had lifter tick and fixed it. I can only guess someone new to cars thought it was a horrific going to die soon sound.

 

good news about not having to drain the oil. as far as T belts go is everyone still using Gates set ups or is there a better alternative now? I saw some mitsubishi belts but they don't come in a kit.

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on another note I CANNOT locate the crankshaft seal on parts.subaru. camshaft front seal and back orings no problem, but where the hell on here is the crank seal? it's not even in the schematic for the crank case.

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