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Mid mount Brat racer


docmidBratt
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Update

Well progress has been slow with covid, luck i'm in NZ

anyway check this out

Brumby bonnet with gt legacy reversed scoop.

Just had the cage done. Tim at octane automotive here in Palmerston North.

A piece of art

Just working on placing of fuse box, starter panel and stuff like that.

Picked up some rims off a stolen wrx. judging by the flat spots and spikes in the tyres a police chase.

Anyway hope you enjoy

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  • 7 months later...

More stuff done

rear polycarb windows done with supports inside and out.

wiring done, just needs finial mounting.

boost gauge, rev counter and shift light, oil pressure  gauge, volt meter, temp gauge and electric water

pump all set up and going.

centre console started (rear done ) got the carb for free, it was off cuts a business was throwing out. score

3 plus months working as courier slowed things down ( 70 plus hours a week ) back to postie work now.

so getting closer. allot of little thing to finish off. like changing nut to lock nuts and stuff like that.

 

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console 2.JPG

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And more update

Decided to get the brake lights sorted

With the old brumby sitting in the paddock for years the bulb fittings had rusted up.

So a new setup was needed. a bit of a look at what stuff i had lying around come up with this.

1 drill out old socket

2 make hole bigger

3 wire up new fittings and add plugs

4 glue in fittings

And very surprised how well the Ryobi 18 volt soldering iron went. warmed up in seconds.

no waiting around for the plug in iron to warm up.

just need to hook earth and power to test

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  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Update

getting closer to finishing

large.1612101666_rearwindow.JPG.6c37a44f4b67d935ff755e6cdfe64d9d.JPG

The rear pollycarb window in in and looking good. We have painted all bolts and the 2 alloy uprights black

large.1625348953_bump1.JPG.8954a9a1415bfc8ffb12b3c28a1ac3af.JPGlarge.22333161_bumper2.JPG.9b11a151d0c740be2d3125e3d71f2982.JPG

 

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The rear bumper is almost finished

We used a bit of frame off a small truck deck with a bit of steel of the farm.

lots of cardboard and taps. We are going to put alloy treadplate painted black on the 

top of the bumper. did a small mock up and it looked sweet

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The front window is in. new rubber as well. surprised the window come up so good.

still has a few melted spots from welding ha ha ha

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A sneak peak of final look with wheel on.

finishing rear camera mirror setup. Have new covers for rear lights.

Getting log book done.

Got out a clear container and a old biscuit tin and did a mock up of how 

the sump buffer is going to go to keep oil in the bottom.

Playing around with that, what a difference it made with just a few small lips.

Will post picture when we tackle that (soon )

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  • 3 weeks later...

Another update

the sump build, with the previous playing around with the water tin experiment we came up with a plain.

large.118081608_sump1.JPG.e9a80018f5447544f26b2a553bd77b2c.JPGlarge.473173535_holesheet.JPG.f08acd886a73808fcd14024d3e07c10c.JPGlarge.1809862301_sump2.JPG.36b25ead171f248e66cf73c624cc0ee7.JPGlarge.1020516615_sump4.JPG.597cdc6f35c759113f1900f6abaddb25.JPGlarge.2015790728_sumpfin.JPG.50ef05d7b87e5bb7ce7680e0859df403.JPG

Using the old type sump for more oil volume an a bit of stuff lying around

All bottom layer angled down and fully sealed around. so breathable but reduces the 

oil sloshing up and away from the bottom.

upper layer solid but open around edges again to prevent splash.

works a treat with water. you can see the bottom of the sump still full of oil when swing around.

Any thoughts? 

The hole tt legacy only coat $400 so cheap engine to experiment with. ha ha ha

next catch cans but might have to drop her on the ground and give her a spin

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8 hours ago, docmidBratt said:

Another update

the sump build, with the previous playing around with the water tin experiment we came up with a plain.

large.118081608_sump1.JPG.e9a80018f5447544f26b2a553bd77b2c.JPGlarge.473173535_holesheet.JPG.f08acd886a73808fcd14024d3e07c10c.JPGlarge.1809862301_sump2.JPG.36b25ead171f248e66cf73c624cc0ee7.JPGlarge.1020516615_sump4.JPG.597cdc6f35c759113f1900f6abaddb25.JPGlarge.2015790728_sumpfin.JPG.50ef05d7b87e5bb7ce7680e0859df403.JPG

Using the old type sump for more oil volume an a bit of stuff lying around

All bottom layer angled down and fully sealed around. so breathable but reduces the 

oil sloshing up and away from the bottom.

upper layer solid but open around edges again to prevent splash.

works a treat with water. you can see the bottom of the sump still full of oil when swing around.

Any thoughts? 

The hole tt legacy only coat $400 so cheap engine to experiment with. ha ha ha

next catch cans but might have to drop her on the ground and give her a spin

Interesting.  So two layers with the bottom one perforated?  I suppose room temperature water probably has about the same viscosity as hot engine oil.  I'd be a bit worried about having adequate drainage to the bottom, I'd try it with baffles that are angled downward more steeply and/or don't stick in as far from the walls.  I'd be surprised if a significant amount of oil goes through the perforations.

Some quick googling indicates the oil pump can flow about 10gpm (40 liters per minute) at high RPM, similar to a garden hose.  You want to make sure that can all get to the bottom of the pan.

Have you thought about making or buying a crank scraper/windage tray?

Definitely let us know how the test run goes!

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Thanks man

So the bottom layer has about 20 degrees fall

The perforations are to let any air out that might get in or trapped at bottom.

I would have thought the oil would drain down?

What percentage come through the bottom of the engine? 

and what percentage comes through the drain pipe?

 

The upper layer also is angled down. not as much as bottom layer.

do you think the top layer it is to restrictive?

should I open it up more?

As for windage tray I was trying to sort of do that with the 2 layers

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16 hours ago, docmidBratt said:

Thanks man

So the bottom layer has about 20 degrees fall

The perforations are to let any air out that might get in or trapped at bottom.

I would have thought the oil would drain down?

What percentage come through the bottom of the engine? 

and what percentage comes through the drain pipe?

 

The upper layer also is angled down. not as much as bottom layer.

do you think the top layer it is to restrictive?

should I open it up more?

As for windage tray I was trying to sort of do that with the 2 layers

Take all this with a giant grain of salt.  I have assembled dozens of automotive engines, even won some races with some of them, but have only assembled one Subaru engine.  Proper oil control is definitely key to longevity especially in road racing.  I would err more on the side of maximum drainage than too much baffling.  Make sure the heads have healthy drainage to the case, not sure I've ever looked at that in a Subaru.

I have no idea without looking closer at one how much comes through that drain pipe but clearly some of it, maybe even most of it, drains down the center.  Don't have one torn apart here to look at.

Personally I'd angle the top layer down at a much steeper angle, maybe 45 degrees if you could make it work.

Again, it's been a while, I think most Subaru engines have some kind of semiposterior windage tray.  This is what I meant by a crank scraper/windage tray though:

https://eliteracefab.com/collections/oil-baffles-crank-scrapers/products/killer-b-oil-baffle-windage-tray-ej-series

You want them nearly touching the rods and crank to get as much oil off the outside of your rotating assembly and down into the pan as possible.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Update

Got wheel alignment.

As its all new, took a stab at it. not bad out come on the machine.

Only .5 out on camber and caster sweet. Just added a bit of toe out.

Not bad for a couple of amateurs.

Next and what a great day. Finally got it to the track.

Big smile on my face , and off we went.

All the positive feed back, people loved it, loved the concept.

And old girl brought back to life.

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Car looks sweet at the track.

So much room in the cabin. 

So easy to use. 

just the thought we put into setting things up made things so easy to operate.

So first run (other than up the cowshed track the other day)

Car brakes straight, turn in, even for a mid engine car was surprisingly pretty good.

Slight ride height needed on front. just a small rub on outer guard.

Bu,. and yes but

We had a problem.

The car for some reason would not run very well over 3000-4000 rpm.

It would miss fire, cut out with too much throttle ?

So I played with the fuel pressure a bit.

Good note, the oil pressure stayed over 90 psi through corners. Plus

But as a new build I spent my time looking at oil pressure and then water temp. 

Temp didn't get over 59 degrease. But because it wasn't revving to high ?

And then I looked at the boost 

problem. Seamed to be spiking up and down under boost ?

Under very little throttle it would run up to say 5000 rpm but then would cut out, 

After that I would get no throttle response until I changed down a gear?

Don't even think its getting to the 2nd turbo?

What's your thoughts

Boost cut?

Anyway, that's what you get from a new build.

Even the new Rx8 beside me had problems.

K swapped turbo, running up to 600 hp on fuel boost only running 400hp over heating.

But that's another story .

Still loved driving it. its so cool

 

 

 

 

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Well done mate, it looks awesome, got a bit of a ‘70’s vibe to it with that colour scheme :banana: 

Subyclub.com has a whole subforum about the twin turbo setup: http://www.subyclub.com/forum/7-twin-turbo/ 
There’s a lot of good info on there. KONG is a guru on these beasts if you want to retain the twins. There are a number of threads about converting to single turbo too.

Cheers 

Bennie

Edited by el_freddo
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6 hours ago, docmidBratt said:

Thanks man

Hope the above post made sense.

Half a bottle of bourbon down :P

All good, just the change to the next line half way through a sentence took a bit to get used to… 

Cheers 

Bennie

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Car looks great!  Better underheating than overheating.

I would guess some kind of fuel delivery issue but I don't know much about those engines.  To test the whole system it's best to disconnect the supply line as close to the engine as possible and run the fuel pump.  Good rule of thumb is 1oz/second per 200hp.  Don't know offhand how that converts to non barbaric units, we usually just fill a 12oz bottle/can and make sure it can do it under 12 seconds (for a 200hp engine).

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Thanks all

we may have pinned the wrong pin on the 4 plug ecu.

It is extremely difficult to find anything on a 1996 BG5 T5 ecu pinout.

heaps of 1994-1998 pinout and single turbo pinouts

but trying to figure out the right pinout of the ecu to think it a manual, no go so far

so far the only 4 plug ecu pinout we can find is connector B58 pin 10, Doesn't match our ecu

and the only other stuff is from a 3 plug ecu connector b135 pin 25. no go again

O well keep looking

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

All good here

fuel flow rate 15oz in 7 seconds

The aeromotive fuel system I run is rated for 450hp na, so all good there.

Now a surprise to me I managed to find a BG5 1997 4 plug pinout.

It seems to match what I have. Check with other sensors on engine.

Now hopefully it will rev over 4000.

Cheers all doc

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