nillvurt Posted May 24, 2017 Author Share Posted May 24, 2017 Any good way to measure the runout? Or do I need specialized tools? I imagine it has to be pretty exact…basically no runout at all once I put the shims in… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nillvurt Posted June 2, 2017 Author Share Posted June 2, 2017 Got some 0.001" shim washers on Amazon and the clamping dial indicator from HF. Got the runout within 0.002" so hopefully that will keep my rotor from developing judder again. Ultimately, I would like to find the cause of the hub having runout, but for now this will have to do! Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 I would have them turned before resorting to replacing things. Typically you can get a set turned pretty cheap. Wild you're having these issues. Bummer but I'm sure you'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 (edited) Edit: double post. Stupid cell phone. Edited June 2, 2017 by l75eya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nillvurt Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 They are new rotors and I doubt they have runout from the box...I could do an on car turning, but I'll wait and see how my shims work out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 They are new rotors and I doubt they have runout from the box...I could do an on car turning, but I'll wait and see how my shims work out... I would not be so sure. We used to machine ALL of the brand new FACTORY rotors at a dealership I once worked at. They were all warped. I have seen warped new aftermarket rotors too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 If the hub itself is out, I fixed one like that by knocking out the wheel studs, truing it up in the brake lathe, then replaced the studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Dawg Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 (edited) I totally concur with the wrapped/bent HUB... I did all 4 and with an issue that I was having before shimming the shakes and the whoo whoo whoo's then with a plague of broken ball joints and tires becoming out of round on all 4 because i would rotate wheels. I replaced,ball joints, shocks,struts,bearings,axles,cones,tires,rotors, pads, drums,and shoes and with in probably 6months I got the shimmy and shakes AgAiN at hwy speed. I jacked up the front and inspected the wheels as they are turning in 1st gear. From the front looking at the side there was no real wobble... then I looked from the side and the drivers hub was waouwaouwaou... I pulled the hub and replaced it with a another from the scrap yard. And it looks a hell of alot better and it doesn't really vibrate but rather makes a pulsating noise.. which I think has to do more with the rotor being jacked... now. And this goes W aaay back 12 yrs ago in the making when I was getting pushed out of my lane by another driver in the early am hrs in the rain I chucked a curb. The rim does not appear bent, yet I replaced all that horse shitt from hell to find out it was my hub after all not dragging brakes or anything else not that I would have eventually have to change anything out after 300,000+ Miles and really I missed one in your face clue.... the washer on the cone did not leave centered impression. Edited September 4, 2019 by Len Dawg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zip Tie Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 I'm glad I found this thread. I've been having this same problem with my 91' 4wd loyale. I've just gone through and replaced the front rotors and pads, inner and outer tie rods and ball joints, sway bar bushings, tires balanced and had the alignment done and it still shakes the steering wheel when braking! I did notice the other day that the steering wheel doesn't shake while i'm turning and braking at hwy speeds, but it sure does when i'm going straight. I can also feel a pulsing in the brake pedal when turning and braking though. Any help would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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