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So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift, the car bogged out hard but continued to run. Then the CEL came on and it idled high around 1200 rpm instead of the usual 5-600 rpms. Then after finding out auto zone couldn't run my codes I tried to drive home. After about 15 minutes The car bogged out under light throttle at a stop light trying to move in 1st. Then it wouldn't start after that. Plugged the black CEL memory cables in and turned the key to ON. now it's throwing codes 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 35, 42, and 49 when the CEL was never on before. The car won't start at all just cranks and cranks until the battery dies. All stock ej22t awd 5 speed manual

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That many codes means you have wiring issues. Most likely grounding problems. Go over all you battery and ground connections. The jarring of the drivetrain when you dropped the hammer may have pulled something loose or broken a weak connection. 

 

GD 

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Main ECU ground is on the intake manifold. Check the grounds from block to chasis. There's one on the trans to the firewall. Those early cars had problems with grounding. You should probably get a grounding kit and add a few more. 

 

GD

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+1

 

Attached 1990-1994 ECU codes.

16, Injector #3
17, Injector #4   
 
22, Knock sensor

23, Air flow sensor
24, Air control valve
35, Canister purge solenoid valve
42, Idle switch
49, Air flow sensor

 

I don't know which of these would cause a 'no start' or Why an attempt to ruin your trans* would also cause this issue, but I've seen/read about it numerous times that these cars also had bad Knock Sensors from the factory - cracked - and I'd replace yours as the first step, as it FREQUENTLY causes other codes.

 

It is possible you had a bad/borderline KS before this and had a stored code.

 

My only guess is that when you tried to kill your clutch* the shock may have loosened a Ground or other connection, as noted by GD above.

 

I would try disconnecting the Neg. battery cable and letting it sit overnight to reset the ECU. REconnect and see if it'll start and/or what codes come back.

 

 

*You will have a difficult time finding a replacement transmission for a '91-'94 SS.. You'll $pend a lot on either a rebuild or doing a swap w/something else.

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Edited by wtdash

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Update, I replaced the Knock sensor, crank positioning sensor, throttle positioning sensor, ignition coil, and every relay in the box. Checked my timing belt and it's still new looking. It still won't get spark in any cylinders. I tracked down nearly every plug and wire to see what could have happened. I found one bad ground coming off the middle of the firewall but couldn't find where it went to. So very stumped about what is going on.

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This is the only ground I could find that was not attached to something. Where does it go? I tried to find where it's supposed to lead to but I couldn't find it

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I don't know where that goes..but not clear on why you can't follow it back to where the other end is?...Unless it goes INto a wiring harness?

 

Also, I was thinking that if you did mess up your timing belt - by side-stepping the clutch -  that would certainly cause a no-start. It could have jumped a tooth (or dozen), which would explain some of the codes.

 

Newer (?) Subaru's w/5/6-speeds have a guard OVER the crank sprocket to avoid just this issue, IIRC.

 

Good news is that the EJ22T is a NON-interference engine, so no damage to pistons or valves should've occurred.

Edited by wtdash

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So I dropped the clutch in 1st at about 5k rpms in some loose gravel to try to drift,

 

Why in the world would you do this in the first place? Like sticking a fork in an electric socket wondering what might happen.

 

trying to see a sheared clutch disc first hand? Wanting the challenge of a scavenger hunt for increasingly rare EJ22T parts?

 

not trying to kick you while your down, but thrashing and abusing cars like this has a predictable outcome. If we all had a dollar for every otherwise nice WRX we've seen kids quickly destroy because they watch too many fast a furious movies....

 

Check timing, hopefully this is a simple fix and you'll be kind to your vehicle after this.

Edited by AdventureSubaru

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These transmissions weren't designed for clutch dumps and 4 wheel burn outs. They are essentially the same trans as the 02 - 05 WRX. Which is well known to throw third gear teeth if abused. People did this on test drives with brand new one's out of the showroom. You need a 6 speed if you want to drift all 4 wheels. You also need about 300 HP to the wheels minimum to do this right. Don't play race car with grandma's sedan kid.

 

GD

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Hash marks correspond to the notched marks on the timing covers for the cams. (block for the crank) They will be at 12 o'clock. The cam pulleys each have double the teeth of the crank sprocket so you may need to rotate further until all three hash marks are at 12 o'clock.

Edited by AdventureSubaru

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Turn the engine over (by hand) till all the hash marks are straight up. It looks like the cams are probably aligned to each other. But it's typically the crank that skips on the single cam engines (if it's going to at all). 

 

GD

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All 3 will be at 12 o clock. Depending on tension/belt stretch I've lined them up with the drivers cam pulley just slightly past (maybe 1 or 2 mm) as releasing the tensioner brings it back a tad.

 

Take some pics if you're unsure, we can confirm, but if all 3 don't come to the 12 o clock then it's off.

Edited by AdventureSubaru

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I set the timing perfectly all hashmarks at 12 a clock and it still only cranks and cranks no start. Very upset that my 3 hours of work and tons of parts replaced in vain. Once I finally get this thing started I'm grandma driving for awhile.

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