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I know there is tons of threads on this but I couldn't find anything talking about doing the wire harness swap. From what I understand there is a harness merge you do with the auto loom to make the manual drivetrain work normal. What I am looking at doing since my manual (2002 Subaru Forester S) got hit by a drunk driver is to swap everything besides the motor over to an Auto Forester (2001 Subaru Forester S). What is needed in terms of electrical to make it fully function (reverse lights, cruise control, abs, speedometer, key lock)? Links are greatly appreciated too! 

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Cleanest way is to pull the dash out of both of them and swap the full harness over. Everything will be plug and play, but it's a fair bit of work. I did an older legacy, and just added the ground pin to the ECU connector that tells the computer it's now a manual car, unplugged the TCU, and spliced the park safety switch together so it would crank. You would need to also run wires to the ECU from the neutral switch on the transmission and reverse lights to the transmission switch. Basically download a copy of the FSM from Subaru and compare the differences in wiring.


I would drive the forester with the auto for a bit first though. I know I'm in the minority, but I like the 4eat. It drives decent, cruises at low rpm on the highway, and if you stand on the brakes and load the engine against the torque converter, then pop off the brakes, it will hole-shot most any car from a light.

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simpler to just sell the auto forester and then buy an existing manual trans forester.  


but i still understand the idea:


swap engine, transmission, center console/shifter bits/trim, instrument cluster, cruise control computer, clutch pedal assembly, and rear driveshaft.


then you'll have to wire in the rear brake lights to work. 

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You have a parts car so you have everything.

No harness swap needed, although if you want to go that far you can, but you'll end up pulling the entire dash out of the car to do it.


ABS won't be affected, no key lock on the manual trans cars AFAIK, and speed sensors are the same so they're plug and play. All of that isn't worth taking the time to worry about.


The only wiring you'll have to do is connect the reverse switch on the MT to the proper two wires in the existing harness so your reverse lights work.

You'll have to connect the neutral position switch on the MT to the correct pins on the ECU so it knows when the trans is in neutral. Doesn't affect starting, but the ECU changes idle control and A/F ratio on deceleration based on whether the manual trans is in neutral.

Also need to ground the MT identifier on the ECU so the ECU doesn't look for inputs from the auto TCU anymore.


Those three are the extent of wiring that needs to be done to make it work with no CEL.


Beyond that, like Gary said, it's transmission, driveshaft, rear diff (so FDR matches). Shifting pieces, pedal assembly and hydraulics.


You don't NEED the clutch safety start switch on the pedal, though if it makes you more comfortable that's easy to wire in. Only other thing would be the cruise cut switch on the clutch pedal, which is also not necessary. Cruise will still work without it, but it won't cut out when you push the clutch pedal, so the engine will free rev if you push the clutch and/or take the trans out of gear while the cruise is engaged. Which when you think about it is kind of pointless anyway, because who really does that? If you tap the brake pedal or turn off the cruise first there's no need for a clutch switch.

Edited by Fairtax4me
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